Is Rain X or Car Wax the better choice for stainless steel sinks?
whaas_5a
7 years ago
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7 years agowhaas_5a
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Can anything "seal" stainless steel appliances?
Comments (14)Once you have cleaned off the water marks, or the entire fridge with your favorite method, (i use BonAmi) you could rub in a bit of mineral oil or baby oil to protect a specific area. I use mineral oil on my cutting boards, pour a few tblsp rubbing it lightly all over to soak in... At the same time i put a bit on the fridge edge where the handle is and along the top of the bottom freezer door. Not a permanent sealer, but it is a barrier against trouble areas. Just re-apply after a cleaning. It should prevent the daily annoyance. -My husband for some reason ALWAYS places his hands on the edges. He uses the handle to open the fridge, then immediately grabs the edge and fronts when removing something. Some stainless cleaners use silicones that will protect a bit but they also attract dust and air particles...and most of them are very toxic. AND the next time you clean it is that much harder because you have the added step of removing that oil slick. Olive oil would do the same but my dogs would lick it and make a bigger mess. Even veg oil, so i use mineral oil. It is neutral and much cleaner so it will never develop a rancid odor. IF you try a thin oil layer, it will appear a different sheen at first, (just rub on a little bit)...then come back in a few minutes and buff it out. I know some just rub down the entire appliance. The BKF just might show a rub-down spot over time. More a concern is, in that moment of frustration, giving it that quick clean, you may pick up the wrong cloth. One that is not perfectly clean, and cause scratches. I use 80%vinegar/20%rub alcohol and BonAmi...for everything. Have BKF for stubborn stuff. Maybe just vinegar as your 'quick clean' . You'll have to experiment a better system but do try an oil. Never tried the rain-x type of thing....See MoreWhat is the best way to clean my new stainless appliances?
Comments (57)After reading the posts, I had already tried Sprayway, Stainless Steel Magic, Mr Clean Erasers(once), vinegar and water. But never Pledge. As I only had the orange Pledge I thought what the ****, I'll try it. I used the Micro Fiber towel ( Yes the ones from Costco for cars). It was wonderful and quick. My French Door frig, my dishwasher and range look great and all in five minutes. I call my husband Shrek as he never thinks about using the handles, but now I have a quick fix. Thanks to those that suggested it....See MoreHelp a girl out with countertop choice please!!!
Comments (93)Love all your choices. My only suggestion would be to do a different backsplash behind the range because the grooves design will trap the splatters from the cooktop. A stainless steel panel backsplash behind the cooktop which meets the hood will add sparkle and shine, is practical for that area, and is very reasonably-priced. There are also stainless steel backsplashes for behind the range that come in patterns - quilted (for that diner look), tile pattern, all sorts of looks - just google "stainless steel backsplash". Or just do the standard stainless steel panel for simplicity and a clean look. You could also use your soapstone as a panel behind the cooktop. That will look sharp, but add $$$....See MoreSinks! Drain location, Julien vs CreateGoodSinks, & prep sink question
Comments (33)@C. First of all, if you are 5'10" and have really bad back pain, then a 38" countertop height might still be too low for you. I'm barely 5'7" when when standing up as straight as I can, and a 38 3/4" countertop height is very comfortable for me. At 5'10", you could easily go up to a 40" countertop height. It is uncommon for kitchen designers to specify countertops much higher than 40" for anyone except a frequent kitchen user who is taller than 6 feet in order to retain the general usability for varying heights of potential users, but you may always do what you find best for yourself. I would encourage you to do a mockup of a 40" countertop height and try different tasks like chopping on a cutting board and stirring in mixing bowls to see how you like it. Remember that you should allow 1/2" for cabinetry leveling, so find your perfect height, and then subtract 1/2" (from the total of cabinetry plus countertop) when placing your order. The minimum possible front countertop ledge width is determined by factors which contribute to the risk of a break. I will guarantee you that ledge width in your picture is probably wider in person than it may appear here. Few fabricators will cut a continuous ledge (meaning without seams) less than 2 1/2" to 3" wide, and some fabricators will even burden you with a 4" or greater ledge, though that is excessive. The Galley issues guidelines for cutting the sink hole with no seams around the hole, but this technique complicates the handling and transport of the piece because that area is so delicate once it is cut. If I understand, correctly your countertop will only be 1/2" thick which may mean that you are using porcelain or something of that nature, and in that case, the substrate will dictate that you will need a seam for a narrow front ledge rather than having the sink cut from the middle. Porcelain is already fragile, and it won't survive the handling, transport, and installation with a pre-cut, narrow, continuous sink ledge. Be cautious of any fabricator who wants to install steel rods to help stabilize a front sink ledge. Those rods can get wet and swell and cause future breakage. The best policy is to avoid rod reinforcement. In terms of ergonomics, the height of your countertop and the height of your sink is relatively more important than how far forward you stand to the sink, but if you have really bad back pain and want to give your best effort to eliminating that in your kitchen, then an apron-front sink still needs to be on your list for consideration. I regularly operate within the full confines of the apron front which brings dishes and other tasks such as cleaning the sink very close to my body and allows me to stand mostly upright. It is the leaning forward at a sink that strains your back, and you will lose at least a hand width's advantage with a non-apron-front sink of your ability to work closer to your body to minimize leaning. For many people this is not an issue, and due to the fact that non-apron-front sinks are usually less expensive and more plentiful in terms of brands and styles, plus more aesthetically pleasing in many instances, the majority of kitchen remodelers are not using apron-fronts. Both Rachiele and Havens offer texturing for their stainless steel sinks, and if you look at their portfolios, you'll see that a hammered or otherwise textured finish is actually very pretty for an apron front sink. I have a textured finish, and it hides water spots and scratches and it looks as new today as it did several years ago when I had it installed. My only caution is that the interior of the sink should preferably be smooth to aid with cleaning. I believe that texturing can be applied only to the forward-facing and top ledge part of the apron front if you like that look. Spillage over the apron front is not a problem for me. Every now and then, I might get a small drip down the apron front, maybe after loading the dishwasher with something wet, but nothing more than you would sometimes get from a sink with a ledge that gets water on the front ledge and drips down occasionally. I would be hard pressed to say if I even have to wipe drips of water off the apron front even once per week. It just really is not a problem for me. It sounds like you are on the right track to helping with your ergonomics. As I mentioned earlier, your first step is to see if you can raise those countertops up to 40". If you do a lot of bread kneading or something where you need your arms straight down, you might consider doing dual levels somewhere in the kitchen. Generally, 41" to 42" is the upper stretch of a modified countertop height, and that would be for someone taller than 6 feet. The reason that we don't like to raise the countertop much more than that is because then they become unusable for people who are shorter. However, at a height of 5'10" with back problems, 40" is not at all out of reason. Be aware that if you wear shoes with thick soles when you are working in the kitchen or if you intend to put down a comfort mat on the floor that has substantial thickness, those factors could alter how you feel about your cabinetry height. Mocking up a height and doing various tasks is the most reliable way to determine what is best for you....See MoreMiranda33
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