Why is parts of my Bermuda Grass Brown??
8 years ago
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Bermuda grass browning in the front, thriving in the back
Comments (12)I don't know about too stressed to fertilize but I would wait until I was sure the roots were working right. Do you see runoff when you water? If you do, then stop watering immediately and let the water soak in. Then restart in 15 minutes until you get runoff again. Cycle like that until you get an inch of water. Thank you so much for the picture. It really speaks a thousand words. Also out of curiosity, what direction were you looking when you took that picture? Please don't say north....See MoreHelp! All my bermuda Sod and Fescue grass died
Comments (7)It wasn't the temp or the soil. It was your watering. How did you water the bermuda? How are you watering it now? When did you seed the fescue and how did you water that. Generally planting fescue seed any time after about February is not a great idea. The closer you get to July the less and less of a good idea it is. Bermuda sod can go down any time, but it needs to be watered 3x per day for the first 3 weeks in order to get the roots from the sod to knit or grow into the soil underneath. Did you do that? Also did you roll the sod or seed down? It is possible to post more than one picture, but you have to use HTML coding to do it. Read this for more info....See MoreBermuda Grass care (Celebration Bermuda) Advice
Comments (11)Tilling would have been the wrong thing to do, especially for bermuda, so don't hate on your installer. He did it right. Still the surface is not level. You can deal with that in December or wait until next June. The grass either needs to be completely dormant or growing like crazy. Your soil is not likely to be compacted. You can drive bulldozers over it all day long and it will not compact...unless the soil is saturated with water first. If the soil was saturated and then mechanically compressed, that would cause the particles of soil to squeeze the air out and that is the definition of compacted soil. Bricks are made of compacted clay. Adobe is made of compacted silt and sand. Almost no yards are truly compacted. However, many (MANY) yards are hard from a lack of adequate biology. New yards are especially prone to this because they don't get watered, fertilized with organics, and don't have a history of grass growing in them. Here's how to fix yours fast. ...and when I say fast, I mean in 3 weeks. Spray it with shampoo. Shampoo is a surfactant that will allow moisture to penetrate much deeper into the soil. When that happens the microbes in the soil have a more hospitable environment (cooler and moister) in which to thrive. It is the microbes that soften the soil for you. The shampoo application rate is 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. If you have 3,000 square feet, put 9 ounces into a hose end sprayer, fill it with water, and try to spray it evenly until the sprayer bottle is empty. You can repeat this as often as you want to, but wait for 3 weeks before you decide to repeat. Before you spray it test the soil by pushing a screw driver into it. Do that before you water and after. Then spray the yard and apply a full 1/2 to 1 inch of water all at one time. You'll have to time how long to leave the sprinkler on yourself. Do that by placing cat food or tuna cans around the yard and time how long it takes to fill them. I can tell by looking at your (dry) yard that 25 minutes is not nearly long enough. Mine takes 8 hours with turbo oscillator sprinklers on a 3/4-inch hose. That time to water 1 inch is the time you should reset your sprinklers for. Once you know that number, reset the timer and set it to water only one day per week. Bermuda in Fresno should be able to handle one day a week watering easily. I just visited a St Augustine lawn in Phoenix that only gets water once a week, so you can do it with bermuda. When the soil is right it will be very soft when moist and very firm when dry. The shampoo treatment is a replacement for aerating. You won't have to aerate ever again. Use a clear shampoo like baby shampoo. Don't use one with conditioners in it. Cheapo shampoo is fine. Generally you are correct to use the highest nitrogen number you can get easily with zeros for the other numbers. You might want to spend $25 for a soil test at Logan Labs to see if you need P or K in your fertilizer. If you do that, post your results here on this forum. Morpheuspa will read it for you and tell you how much of anything you need to apply, when to apply, and where to buy it. In addition to monthly feeding with high N, I would urge you to add at least one app per year of any organic fertilizer. The organic fertilizers feed the soil microbes so that they can help you take care of the grass. For example they keep the soil from getting hard. They also feed the grass, and there are other benefits. You can apply organics at the same time you use chemical ferts, or any other day of the year. Have you tried mowing down to 1/2-inch and letting it come back up to 3/4? Do you actually hit the ground when you mow lower than 1 inch or does it just scalp off all the green and leave brown stems? Brown stems are normal until you get it down to the 1/2-inch range. If you mow it 3x per week at 1/2-inch it will start to grow horizontally like you see on putting greens at the golf course. That's often the objective for serious bermuda growers....See Moregrass for shady parts of lawn where bermuda is main grass in sun
Comments (1)If you already have enough grass in your yard for your needs ( especially if its just for looks) , its better to not struggle with growing grass around trees....See MoreRelated Professionals
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