I would use an H. tray for everything except cacti & succulents, you can prune roots anytime if the plant has been established in its location (and has always been indoors), but otherwise would wait for spring - and do it only if it's needed, to fit a certain pot (but not before its time), or to encourage new feeder roots, but not just because it's what people do to bonsai. Generally you'd cut 1/4 to 1/3 of the roots, like a shallow bowl, but only if there are a fair amount to sustain it up near the top, and if there's a hefty pad there, you can even take more on occasion. If the soil is really fast draining (mostly grit vs peat), you can water more often without a problem - though never let the pot sit in drain water - but generally the top layer at least should be dry between waterings... learn to read the tree's needs.

There seems to be some confusion again with common names - Aloe vera is Aloe vera :-) Although that term is sometimes used to refer to ANY kind of aloe, there are not two species of true or common, aka medicinal aloe. There ARE many species of aloe....as many as 400 have been registered but true aloe, Aloe vera (formerly Aloe barbadensis), is the one noted for medicinal purposes. There is some documentation that Aloe arborescens also has similar medicinal properties but as the species name suggests, this has a much more tree-like growth habit and develops a distinct stem or trunk. The difference in growth habits between the two plants shown in the pics is simply due to age and maturity. Aloe vera will form a full rosette if given sufficient time and proper growing conditions. Check the Wiki photo linked below. The smaller ones that appear to only grow laterally rather than in a round rosette of leaves are just young, immature plants (offsets or pups) and hampered from full development by lack of time and indoor growing conditions. Here is a link that might be useful:

I tend to disagree with some of the advice in that link: sand for play boxes is usually too fine, it is specifically good packing sand to make sand castles and sand cookies and similar...if it was coarse, it would not stick together. So that info is, IMO, incorrect. You need to find what is referred to as Horticultural sand - much grittier, with bigger particles. Most of us do not use sand at all (very few ppl do, and they have lots of knowledge and experience with growing succulents). You would be much better off reading info on this forum: ppl giving advice grow (and many, like Jeff above), have been growing succulents for years. Our goal is to keep plants healthy, and #1 is usually drainage problem: mix needs to drain fast/well, and soil with fine sand will not provide drainage. Perlite is available to most. It is good idea to sift or rinse it, to get rid of dust. Pumice is anorher excellent substrate, not always readily available. Chicken grit/small granite gravel, is another ingredient excellent to use. There are many more inorganc ingredients that could be used. MG bagged potting soil is considered not good enough and many will not use it (including me). You could make much better draining mix by using just sifted perlite and Cactus&Succulent soil in 1:1 ratio. If you already have MG soil and want to use it, I would suggest to add even more perlite (60-80%). If you have pumice, use it instead of perlite. Or mix it with perlite, and use much less soil. Adding grit helps a lot. Grains of different ingredients should be approx. of same size: 4-6mm is good. It could be tad smaller, but, IMO, 2mm or less is too fine. Over 6mm gets to be too large. Many succulets do not need very large pots. Try to find out where some grow naturally: most in very 'rocky' areas, with literally no soil (or very little), and many on and in-between the rocks: tight spaces. So size of the pot is not always a problem. Bigger is not neccessarily better :) Repoting is usually not needed every year, and if repotting, it is better to go up just a bit - if plant needs it. Succulents could be grown in large pots - but drainage is even more important. Lots of water retaining soil that will fill up large pot will take very long time to dry up and cause lots of damage. If you provide good drainage (and have space for it), you can grow tiny plant in a wine barrel.... There is ton of info here, from good and experienced growers. Not like on some blogs, that offer incorrect info (at least partially) - often not based on experience, but incorrect info passed down. ETA: I just re-read blog you posted link to: here is contradicting info offered within 2 or 3 paragraphs: ..."The type of sand I buy is just the stuff they sell for use in a sandbox (I buy it at either Home Depot or Lowes)"... ..."Just don’t use sand from the garden, the beach, or a sandbox (you never know what nasties will be in that sand)"... Do not use play sand - either from the bag or a sandbox... Anything will work for short period of time. But if you want to grow succulents for a long time, keep them healthy - try to provide good drainage and good light.

My POV based on my experiences and years of interacting with innumerable growers on the topic of container media: 1. It's about impossible to tell if a failing plant is getting too much or too little water- even with Al's help (too little is very common). If a failing plant is in a well-made gritty mix and is collapsing due to a watering issue, it's almost certainly due to not watering frequently enough. You actually have to work quite hard to over-water plants in a medium that holds little or no perched water. There are some plants that can be overwatered because their nature is to not tolerate much water in the soil at ALL (cacti, quiescent mesembs, .....), but for the overwhelming majority of plants discussed on this forum, it would be difficult to over-water. Any plant will fail if you don't water it, regardless of the medium it's in. It's a fact that plants in the gritty mix will need to be watered more often than plants in Miracle Grow and others similar. If someone doesn't want to water more often than these soils require watering, don't use the gritty mix - simple. 2. In dry or hot weather, it can be extremely difficult to provide enough water. Until the entire pot is colonized with roots, you might need to water daily, or even more often. Many of the plants I grow would be considered large houseplants in very small pots, so my plant mass to soil volume requires much closer attention to watering than someone growing in larger pots that would hold 2-4 times the amount of soil relative to plant mass. I pretty much use the 1:1:1 ratio for all those plants normally grown indoors. In winter, under lights I have no problem keeping plants hydrated for 4 or 5 days, and in summer when houseplants are outdoors, I water daily or every other day, depending on the weather (primarily sun, temps, and wind). When a plant is newly planted in the gritty mix, it's necessary to retain a mental image of where the roots are and make sure you water frequently enough that the medium surrounding the roots doesn't grow dry. Generally speaking, these newly repotted plants should be in shade and out of wind to minimize transpirational water loss. I can't remember the last time I lost a plant due to the roots drying out after a repot. If you don't feel as though you want to nurse your plants through the just repotted stage - don't use the gritty mix - simple. 3. Grit doesn't anchor a plant until the entire pot is filled with roots, so tall plants topple over, and hanging plants fall out. At least until the roots have filled the entire pot, you need to devise something to anchor your plants in their pots: bungee cords, tape, chicken wire, zip ties, etc. All else equal, the gritty mix provides more shear strength than peat-based mediums. So, while a recently root pruned plant potted in the gritty mix might need support, the need for supporting the same plant in soils like MG would actually be greater. Whenever we root prune or bare root, especially top-heavy plants like trees, no matter what the medium used - they should be supported. This is not an issue unique to the gritty mix by any means. 4. Special watering devices and methods are needed for some plants. Unlike soil that absorbs and spreads water, grit lets it run directly through, so you must water the entire surface of the grit, or dip the entire pot in water to wet it through. you can't water a plant from a corner, or around the edges. I have to use a laboratory squeeze bottle to water several of my plants because I need to direct a narrow stream of water between dense leaves that completely cover the surface of the pot. It's a pain, but my other choice is to submerge the pots, which means I have to carry them and a bucket of water around several times a week, which increases the risk of them being dropped or spilled. I think that if a person chooses to submerge the pots when they can envision so many potential catastrophes associated with that method, another method is probably a good idea. It is true that water quickly runs through the gritty mix, so you need to try to wet the entire surface of the soil as you water. This is also not a problem unique to the gritty mix. The gritty mix won't become hydrophobic, like peat based soils, unless you have a lot of dry algae growing on the soil surface (but then you have a larger problem), VERY often, problems arise when peat-based soils dry down to their hydrophobic stage, at which point only a tiny fraction of the water applied is absorbed, while all the rest runs down between the soil mass & pot wall. At least if you cover the entire surface of the gritty mix with water until it flows out of the drain hole, you can be pretty certain you're wetting the soil mass & not just throwing water at it. I use some very sophisticated watering tools: The tool above is a very simple water brake. You can buy one for the hose end for a couple of bucks. That's ALL you'll need to water anything in the gritty mix outdoors. I use it in combination with a hose-end shut-off that allows me to control flow volume. The sophisticated tool below is what I use to water all my indoor plants during the winter. I have 2 growing tables in the basement that are 4ft by 8 ft. I have about 100 plants packed onto the two tables, so the plants in the middle are 2 ft from the edge. I water ALL of those plants with this watering can and never once empty a drainage saucer (I use white plastic plates to catch the water that runs through, and it evaporates in a day or 2) or move a plant. I took the rose (nozzle) it came with off and slipped a nozzle from a tube of caulking over the spout. It gives me pinpoint accuracy so I can cover the entire soil surface - simple. 5. It is easy to overwater with soil, but it's even easier to underwater in grit. There is little margin for error. If a plant wilts one day, it'll likely be dead 24 hours later if it's not watered. You can't put it off to the next day. It's easy to underwater in any medium if the grower doesn't hold up his half of the bargain. Under-watering is another issue not unique to the gritty mix, and to say there is little margin for error is deceiving. Any plant that is wilting in any mix is likely to be just as dead next day in whatever medium it's in. The gritty mix does require more frequent waterings, but that doesn't mean the chance of under-watering is increased. One either waters on time or doesn't. The consequences are the same regardless of the medium used. Where fast draining soils shine is in the area that produces the most problems - OVER-watering. As already mentioned, you'd have to work hard at over-watering media like the gritty mix, while excess water retention is an inherent problem in almost all peat-based media. 6. You end up a slave to watering schedules. You can't really have a friend or neighbor water your plants when you go out of town for a week. Every plant ends up on a different schedule, and you can't just stick a finger in to see if it's damp. It's too complicated and confusing to most people. A slave? Different schedules for every plant? In summer, I make the watering rounds daily, but my situation is a little unique. I have lots of bonsai in very small soil volumes, some of which DO require watering daily. Those plants I'm growing pots the same size others might use are watered every 3-4 days, 2-3 days when it's really hot. I water almost EVERYTHING (other than bonsai) on the same schedule. In the winter, every plant except 1 large Fockea edulis and about 4 very small bonsai gets watered every 4 days. The F edulis gets watered every 8 days & the tiny bonsai every 2 days - not hard at all to keep track of. In summer, I have a number of bonsai that get watered daily. The rest of the plants get watered every 2-3 days, depending on weather. Soils that hold little to no perched water ALLOW you to water on a schedule, which is MUCH easier than trying to figure out when 200 plants in a peat mix might or might not need water - nothing complicated or confusing about it - simple. 7. Grit is extremely heavy and clumsy. A five-gallon potted tree that you might've easily moved outside during the day, and back in each night becomes a chore that needs to be set on wheels. Because the pot's depth plays into how much water it holds in relation to the soil volume, there is no way to be exactly precise in measuring the weight of the gritty mix vs a peat mix. In 1-3 gallon containers, the gritty mix weights about 2-3 times what a peat-based mixture weighs when both are dry. When both are saturated in the same size container, the gritty mix weighs about 25-33% more than the peat-based soils. I grow some pretty big plants, and don't think twice about the weight. The term clumsy to describe a soil wouldn't have crossed my mind. When spring temps are erratic and my numerous plants need to be moved in and out to avoid chill-related injury. I put them on nursery carts and move 50 plants in and out in 5 minutes - simple. 8. It wastes a lot of water (and expensive fertilizer). I have to go around dumping drip trays after every watering. In a dry climate, of if you have heat on indoors to dry the air, it might not be an issue, but we're right around 100% humidity indoors and out here. As noted, I've never dumped a drip tray - they do evaporate indoors long before the next watering is required. Outdoors, it's a non-issue for me. Again - not an issue unique to the gritty mix. If you're watering correctly and flushing the soil when you water, you have water in the collection saucer. If you don't, you're promoting salt build-up in the soil, which comes with its own set of problems. 9. Self-watering pots and devices won't work with grit. Completely true ...... by design. The gritty mix is purposely designed so it doesn't support the perched water SWCs depend on to supply water to the plant. Even the 5:1:1 mix isn't suited well to SWCs. Most growers that prefer bark-based media and the convenience of SWCs add additional peat to the 5:1:1 mix so they end up with something like a 5:3:1 mixed of bark:peat:perlite Growing is all about compromise. Growers that want the convenience of week-long intervals between waterings aren't going to get it w/o sacrificing a measure of their plants' potential. When we depend on water-filled pores between soil particles to extend watering intervals, we also accept the fact that roots occupying the saturated portion of the media are functioning very poorly and dying from a lack of oxygen. This is very expensive in terms of energy outlay, and robs the plant of energy that might have been applied to something other than regenerating lost rootage. It's up to the individual to decide what best allows them to order their priorities as they choose. Blaming failures on the mix w/o some feel for what else might have gone wrong is very unfair. Very often, we discover that in their haste to 'get the mix made', it was made with ingredients that shouldn't have been used (too large). Often, too, growers go forward with root pruning that's poorly timed and before the undertaking is well-understood before repotting into the gritty mix. When a plant is doomed before the repotting session is completed, it's hardly reasonable to blame the medium. I repeat over and over that I'm not selling recipes, I'm selling a concept and encouraging people to understand what drives the concept so they can make use of it to avoid the issues that bring 90% of the growers to this forum seeking remedial advice for problems ultimately related to poor root health. This thread is a perfect example. I extolled the virtues of fast draining soils and never mentioned a recipe or any particular soil until the topic was broached in a fashion biased enough that I felt an alternate view would be appropriate. YMMV - just trying to keep it real. Al