Nicky,

The tree certainly does not resemble any Oak that I am familiar with. So leaning toward the Ficus side of things, it may be a Willow Leaf Ficus. Google that and compare what you see to what you have. Are the new growing tips cylindrical and tapered? If so that would tend to confirm.

The other thing looks kind of like some type of Aloe but you might get a better ID inquiring on the house plant forum.

Norm

It looks like the Willow Leaf Ficus pictures. The small leaves on it are tapered.

And do you know what the grower was intending to do when she cut off one one of the branches? It look like it was growing in two directions and the branch on the other side was cut off. I'm not sure what stylistic thing I should be doing with that, or where to begin training.

Nicky,

Cutting a tree back is a Way to increase taper, an important technique used to give the impression of age. A trunk with no taper looks juvenile.

If it had two equal branches emerging at acute angles part way up the trunk, one of them had to go. A primary branch is always smaller than the trunk and emerges at a wide angle. Twin trunk styles usually diverge at ground level.

For now just let it grow and get used to managing it. Most work on ficus is best performed during warm/hot weather anyway.

Norm

Here is a link that might be useful: Ficus Info.

I've identified the "cactus" I think.

I am 99% sure it's an aloe rauhii. They are endangered in the wild, however not too terribly uncommon "in captivity". I'll probably raise it just to have it. It only needs to be watered once a month (or less, it's drought resistant). The only issue I see is giving it full sun while its in the house.

Nicky,

Two for two. By the way, you are quite welcome.

Norm

heh thanks.

I'm having a hard time finding much about this variety though. I'm not sure how much I'm to water it, if it needs a humidity tray, how much light it needs, how much I can prune the roots, when I can prune the roots, etc. I don't know anything about it =/

Anyone have some care suggestions?

I would use an H. tray for everything except cacti & succulents, you can prune roots anytime if the plant has been established in its location (and has always been indoors), but otherwise would wait for spring - and do it only if it's needed, to fit a certain pot (but not before its time), or to encourage new feeder roots, but not just because it's what people do to bonsai. Generally you'd cut 1/4 to 1/3 of the roots, like a shallow bowl, but only if there are a fair amount to sustain it up near the top, and if there's a hefty pad there, you can even take more on occasion. If the soil is really fast draining (mostly grit vs peat), you can water more often without a problem - though never let the pot sit in drain water - but generally the top layer at least should be dry between waterings... learn to read the tree's needs.

I have this really cute pot I want to put it in. Right now it's in an ugly green faded plastic training pot, which is a real eyesore. I'm just afraid of killing the tree but hacking off too much root. This being my first tree I'm very apprehensive about doing much of anything to it.

Then don't do it now, but wait til spring. The thing is, if the pot you want to use is MUCH smaller, reconsider, because you are growing a live tree and not a decoration, and if your tree stays in a very small pot but hasn't been properly trained or grown to be small on its own yet, it could look out of proportion anyhow, and not at all like bonsai, let alone a real tree, but just an artificial thing.

You shouldn't be trying to do 'instant' bonsai... it's something that has to be done in stages, over years, not a few weeks, or you won't have a valid looking tree.

Nicky,

Unless you are satisfied with the current size of the tree, a bonsai pot is not appropriate yet. Trees are not put into their final pot until they are nearing the end of their training period. Here is a link that might help with some of your cultural questions.

Norm

Here is a link that might be useful: Ficus Info.

So it should stay in the training pot until it's done training? I want it to eventually become the large mature looking bonsai. So I will have to wait like 10 years before I can put it in a pretty pot?

Nicky,

I have trees in home made wooden training boxes, not very attractive but next to the ground a SOMEWHAT larger training pot is the quickest way to promote the development of your tree.

You could go with a bonsai pot if it is that important to you but choose one that is large enough that you are not cramping the roots too much.

Be aware that too large of a pot can be detrimental as well. The soil stays wet for too long and the beneficial wet/dry cycle is not established.

Norm