Thanks @sherm1082! So I've been in my house since August of 2013. It's a new house which the builder sodded with Tif419. I've been following the bermuda bible for the past 2 years. I have a TruCut Reel mower that I cut the grass at about 1" religiously every 2-3 days (3 days max). So this year I decided to sand my lawn to remove a lot of dips and valleys in the lawn (which as we all know are exacerbated when your grass is only 1" tall). I used SuperSod's leveling mix which is 30% compost, 70% sand. Its really great stuff. I put this down last weekend (Memorial Day weekend). Anyways, now my bermuda seems to be sending up seed heads. They are tiny and white but really take away from the appearance of the lawn. I understand that means the grass is stressed in some way. I watered the leveling mix in and we've gotten some rain since then but I forget exactly how much. Any ideas? I'm thinking of getting a soil test as I have not done that yet on this lawn. Thanks for any help and guidance you can provide! Note: My last fertilization was early May with 34-0-0 slow release (1lb per/k).

cut & paste from another thread this morning: "Quinclorac kill crabgrass. It's the active ingredient in Drive XLR8, you can use any brand and it will work. Some people (reeljake) uses Sulfosulfuron (Sedge Ender) and it works fine as well. People have have pretty good results keep most weeds out of their bermuda with Celsius and Sulfosulfuron. Plus there is no issues related to applying in hotter temps. Reeljake also uses Dimension with active ingredient dithiopyr as his pre-emergent, I use Prodiamine. With either you want year round coverage to keep ALL WEEDS from germinating. You will need to start your PreM asap to keep winter weeds at bay, then again in Spring for Spring/Summer weeds. PreM: Prodiamine or Dimension Crabgrass: Quinclorac or Sulfosulfuron General weeds (post-emergent): Celsius - 2,4-D will work also but turns grass yellow If you get the correct products, it won't matter what the weed is, it either will never germinate in your yard, thanks to the PreM, or will die when sprayed with the post-emergent."

Wow... that was a lot of information! Dmt gave good information and probably knows a lot more than me. I live in JAX area also, and had my yard trenched for AT&T. Those areas usually die b/c you would have to water it like new sod. Half of mine survived, half didn't. When I moved in last fall all my neighbors had decent looking front yards. Now almost all of them near me have what looks like extensive damage from something. My back yard has issues, not sure what, but so far my front yard, seemingly in danger from whatever is ailing my area of the street, is holding on strong. Sites like this rescued my front yard (HOC, watering, bug damage, etc...). Can't see your sprinkler head you mention. If the sprinkler head is above the ground level you could reposition it to be level with the ground (may need a taller pop up if you do that). You may have tried, but you can usually adjust the spray radius of the sprinkler heads so maybe you could even out that wet spot by adjusting the nozzles. Organic is noble, but I can't help you there. I do use milorganite (greenedge is the local almost equivalent in our area), although my wife complained yesterday about the smell of both. Oh, weed #2 looks like surge to me. Celsius will kill it I think... Bottom right of the bare spot #3 picture looks like maybe some kind of sedge or kyllinga seed heads. It looks suppressed, possibly from the previous weed treatment company. A couple weeks after you think it was treated last you could try treating it again. I think Celsius kills kyllinga but not nutsedge, and sedgehammer kills nutsedge but only 'supresses' kyllinga. So there's a conundrum-proper weed ID would obviously help. You could try each but make sure to space out apps by at least a couple weeks to make sure your grass isn't stressed from the app, probably don't want to apply the herbicide if your grass is stressed. You could probably get away with using sedgehammer on anything nutsedge like, hand pull the rest (as a general rule you don't pull up nutsedge) as they come up, and apply a quality pre-emergent in the fall. I say that b/c honestly your yard looks pretty decent. It's not that bad, at least not in the photos. Of course it doesn't' compare to the lawns of the experts on these forums, but us normal people have to keep our expectations in check. You may of course evolve into an expert... Have you checked for chinch bugs? Hopefully the experts chime in if I misspoke...

John, if you're willing to spend a little upfront, Celsius WG will probably do what you want. Others have mentioned bonide sedge ender. In both cases there are some restrictions for st Augustine grass. I just switched to st. Augustine grass recently and now I use Celsius after help on forums. Google those products on this and other forums, or PM me and I could give you links.