I had one in my house in Texas. It was a beautiful carpet and the house was dry enough that the water issue wasn't a problem. The things to consider are...A how "wet" are you when you step out? I have long hair and tend to flip it into a towel before I step out of the shower (door open in the stall) so the heaviest water left on me is covered with the towel. So basically theres some drip but not much. Our shower also has a curb, so there's no residual splash water to consider. This was in a master bath, so no careless children running around dripping wet :) If your house is damp already though, you'd want to think about how long it will take for any drips to dry in the bath. If it's a very damp climate, a carpet could stay moist for some time and cause mold issues, but in most climate controlled homes, or in dry climates, it's a non issue. In houston you have to pick up your rugs or mats regularly anyhoo to ensure that evil buggies don't hide under there. I always hung it over the shower glass and let it dry completely, maybe once a week? We never had issues. If it's hand dyed (very pricy) you might want to test for water safeness. Some of them run badly when wet. But if it's a normal wool or mixed cotton/poly etc., it would probably be fine! By the way, I wouldn't tuck it right up to the sink. I'd push it back about 4" so that you have 4" on both the shower side and the sink side. If that makes sense. What's the worst thing that could happen? You could try it this week and if at the end of the week the thing is perpetually damp...it isn't a good idea so take up the carpet, let it dry and use it somewhere else :)

If it was my space? The tub dominates the room with it's massive footprint and wrap-around step. First questions? Do you use the tub? Do you love the tub? If you use and love that tub, you could keep it, but I'd look at modifying the step and eliminating the part of the step that's in front of the chest of drawers. If you're not crazy about the tub, I'd replace it with a stand-alone. You'll open up the floor space and crate a lighter and more airy vibe. Your vanity in the second photo looks like it has raised panel doors, I'll slot that in as being somewhat traditional in style. My personal opinion, but I'd follow that cue and go with what I perceive to be the more traditional choice of two framed mirrors instead of the single wall mirror. On that same vein, I'd ditch the yellow brass and opt for chrome. Chrome hardware, chrome lighting, chrome plumbing fixtures. Chrome (my opinion) is stylistically flexible, widely available, and whereas one manufacturer's "brushed something" might be different from another manufacturer's "brushed something", for the most part you can shop and mix chrome from most any source and it'll all blend. Plus it's generally less expensive. I've seen quite a few fine folk lose a bit of their intended remodeling vibe when they chose a non-chrome finish, and once installed, the finish didn't meld as well as it did in their mind during the design phase. Chrome? You really never lose with chrome. When in doubt? Chrome. But if you want to go in another direction, certainly feel free to do so. Just another opinion. Good luck with your decisions.

I don't know the answer but I am curious. if I were you (and having the benefit of hindsight) I wouldn't hesitate to call any of the Miele USA "Experience Centers" and ask to talk to any of the design staff. If you are in the US start with the Princeton, NJ center, their US headquarters. Even better if you can get to a center. The staff at these centers are a world apart from anyone you'll encounter at any appliance dealer, they use the products for demos and classes and typically have the appliances in their own homes. And it's their job to know the details on what you are asking. And report back and let us know. P.S: A little searching and I found this: https://www.mieleusa.com/media/ex/us/PressReleases/2021/9.2021_Generation_7000_Launch.pdf. Food View sounds interesting. There's also this thread: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6229141/miele-7000-series-speed-combi-steam#n=10 Advice on calling the experience centers still stands.

cpartist: I misunderstood about the MW and the corner cabinets. I do wish to go with an upper garage door enclosed microwave so I can swap it out – and realize I completely left it out of the Side View above. I'm not a fan of corner cabinets. I would rather have the storage in drawers on either side and have a blind corner if it meant that other cabinets on my run would be small like the 12" wide cabinet next to the pantry. To me a 12" cabinet is useless except to collect junk. I misunderstood this statement and understood it to mean lower: Whereas perhaps you were referring to upper: Not that it matters. I just misunderstood. Make the coffee bar narrower in depth…. mantlemount… Coffee maker can’t sit directly underneath TV no matter how high TV sits above, even if fully enclosed in a garage as steam escaping from blooming the grinds during brewing would eventually damage the TV. Also, if we make it narrow no room for mini fridge. The mini fridge needs space so as not to overheat. That Mantlemount is awesome, but w/o going into elaborate details, we are incorporating the TV into the cabinet in such a way it won’t work. DH will look at this and may change his mind tho’! As we go through this, we learn so many new ideas and it’s such a fantastic process! Doing a 30" upper with 18" above that is going to make the upper look top heavy and push down on the 30" cabinets. I would do a 36" high upper, a 12" high above that and then have your 6" crown. This was why I wanted to post the Side Views and I so appreciate your input. I wasn’t sure about heights of stacked upper cabs. Since your comment, in looking at various photos, seems the taller cabs below, with shorter above, as you just said, makes for cleaner lines, less heavy: vs. Therefore, I’ll change the stacked cab’s to the 36” and 12” as you suggested to see what it looks like. I feel we’ll both prefer it. I was allowing 5” for crown molding (included in that is a 1” filler to sit underneath to even out non-plumb ceiling heights). I am thinking the crown molding shouldn’t be over 4” in our kitchen as it might look overwhelming in respect to the rest of the house… I do want 18”, not 15” clearance between countertop and upper cabinets. 48" is the width of two cabinets together underneath. Yes, it was the arrow. Thanks for clearing this up, I was concerned we were missing some pertinent measurements a cabinet maker would need to know. I’ve made some mistakes I think in the Side View… #1: the 2” piece of stock (for side of fridge facing the Great Room) is fine, just showing it here. #2: the 2” piece of stock on the other side of the fridge shows it stopping at 2nd stack of upper cabs, which wasn’t intended and the measurements include it going all the way to the crown moulding. However… #3: needs to be the microwave garage, in which case, it needs to be wider. Question: So, and I don’t wish to appear stupid, but there may be rules I’m unaware of: if the stock on the oven side of the fridge (#2) only went on the side of the fridge that is exposed, I could add another 2” to the 24” wide upper cabs, 2” to the lower drawer bases, giving more room for the MW garage (and by garage, I mean garage door). See image below. Are there any rules/reasons Re: stock pieces on this side of fridge that would make this impossible to do? Question: Also, when I did the side view yesterday I didn’t add it all up… I’m coming in at (including leaving 2” stocks as original) 172” across for uppers, 171” across for lowers. Have I missed something from buehl’s layout? Lastly, I understand we are asking a zillion questions and very heavily relying on the 2 of you right now. If at any time this becomes too laborious, time-consuming, or tedious, please let me know.