You have not provided the dimensions for the other walls, the placement of plumbing or electrical, etc. It may be that the walls are needed to carry plumbing to the shower or vanity. What is on the other side of these walls, where is this bathroom in relation to the master bedroom, what other closets are there....too many questions. You have not provided the information anyone would need to discuss this with you.

Your original kitchen plan is VERY similar to my current kitchen. Except that our fridge is next to the pantry door, and we have wall oven/microwave where you have the fridge now. And our island is a little longer -- matches same size as its opposite wall, not counting pantry door. Our place (a condo) had no space for an L with island, so our options were more limited. I like having the sink in the island opposite the cooktop because it allows me to face the views/ windows and socialize with those in the living area while i'm prepping/cleaning up. It is true that it can get messy (sink splash) behind the sink, and for that reason we only have 4 stools, two on either side of the sink. But I love having the pantry and fridge together, as it makes pulling together ingredients for a meal easy. Your plan would frustrate me as it would seem you'd have to walk to the pantry... walk all the way to the other side to the fridge... If you move the sink to the L part then it seems a long long way to the fridge. Imagine getting out some veggies from the fridge, walking them ALL the way over to the sink to wash them, then to the island to prep them while you chat with family on the stools. Now it's clean-up time and you've packed away leftovers at the sink / garbage can, but have to walk ALL the way over to the fridge to put them away.... I'm going to also say that our kitchen works because we have ample walk-in pantry space (coffee station and cleaning supplies live in there too) AND also have floor-to-ceiling built-ins along the DR wall for entertaining items, china, tablecloths, seasonal stuff too. Overall I love our kitchen layout as it's tight and super efficient. I don't get a work out making a meal as everything is close by. Making pasta? I fill the pot at the sink, turn around, walk two steps, and put it on the cooktop. Draining the pasta? It's reverse. I prep on the side of the right side of the island across from the fridge/pantry. I pull out hot oven trays and leave them to cool on the left side. I have less comments on the master bath/closet as I dislike double sinks and toilet closets. I would prefer more closet space and less bath space, but that's me. Master closet: you may be different than us, but it was #1 priority for us to have separate closets, having had to share for years. Mine is a walk-in his is a built-in along one wall. You could possibly do a built-in across from the bed and have a space for a t.v. if you want a t.v. in the bedroom. Laundry wise, think about noise, if you do laundry at night. Linen closets are awesome, but you do seem to have enough space in the baths for towels in drawers, and the laundry is generous and not far away. Just think about non-linen items like extra TP, toiletries, maybe cleaning supplies, etc you generally store in the linen closet now (if you do). Where are your cleaning supplies going to go? Vacuum? Mop and other tall/ bulky cleaning tools? We have a very small entry but it works; but it does have a closet. We don't use our DR table all that often so we were fine making the trade-off for a larger kitchen/ smaller DR (in fact we swapped the two spaces in our reno). The space is probably below standards for clearance but we put in comfy DR chairs and mood lighting, and nobody complains.

I have Hale Navy in my master, as well. I painted the master bath vanity Hale Navy and the walls Grant Beige with Mayonnaise for the trim color throughout. My furniture and decor are beiges and other warm colors, so it worked for me. Maybe, you could look at Mayonnaise for your wall color with the white trim.

Here is what I would do... Keep it about 1" off the ceiling and leave a gap to get light above the fixture to make it look like a feature. Play with the gap between the face board and the angled board until you have a bit of light coming from the top but not too much. You will not be able to see the line set and plumbing pipe unless you are 8' tall. Use some reflective material or mirror effect paint on the angled board to redirect more light down. Use integrated LED tube lights for the light source and attach it to the face board or very high on the silver surface to really hide the tube from below. This is really not an elegant solution but if done correctly it will hide the problem in something that looks like a rational and intentional design decision.