Is your goal privacy for the pool, or the complete blocking of your neighbor's house and property? Aside from the house, you've got quite a view there. Care to say where you're located (PA,VA,OH)?

What is your USDA hardiness zone?

look at these

cupressus x leylandi 'Gold Rider'

Green Giant Arborviates

Ilex Opaca

Opps.. We are located in Northern Va right on the WV border... Round Hill...

We would like to have both privacy and block the barn..... I think this is zone 6b/7a

Those suggested will be great for your area

My initial thought would be a double staggered row of Norway spruce. These should grow fast, 2-3' per year, and if not crowded stay branched to the ground for many years. I'd also plant away from the fence so as not to encroach on your neighbor, maybe right on the cusp of the drop off in your last image.

Having said the above, with the room you have, if you have the inclination and wherewithall I'd recommend a wide mixed planting of both evergreen and deciduous trees, faced down with smaller understory type trees and large growing shrubs. With the acreage and expansive views, something that blends with the existing landscape and looks like it was always there and "belongs" would be what I would strive for.

You haven't said if you are interested in any particular type of tree, other than the ones you've already purchased.

Smaller (planting size) is better. They will establish faster and require somewhat less initial care than large plants. You also have a 15' head start on your screen with the rise in elevation at your fence line.

Maybe a staggered planting like:

a line of Ilex Opaca in the back

a line oftaxus baccata in the middle

then cornus sericea in the front.

This should provide multi-season interest. The hollies will be full and large, you can round over the yews, let them grow about 7/8ft tall, then you can plant red twig dogwood in the front for ornamental interest.

Weeping willow

Metasequoia

Cottonwood

Tulip tree (liriondendron)

The Metasequoia are fast and will outlive us.

All are bare in the winter, when the pool is empty

Cut down the willows when they start to decline, by then the others will have a start.

Dumb question Why do you want to destroy the beautiful vista. I could see some screen for the swimming pool but to block the total view?

If the neighbors house was sitting where the barn is I could also see screen.

Cottonwood? Really?! Come on be realistic.

Metasequoia is a nice idea, the willows could be pollarded to stop dieback. I would think for privacy the OP would want evergreen, but those are nice trees as well. Only concrete pools drain in the winter.

That view is no longer what it was and we would prefer the privacy and remove the stress of the continued growth 300 feet out of our back door..... We love our neighbors and are lucky to have such great people but our dream was to be out on our own and that has changed.... We love the front Porch and... we still have these views...... The best thing we can have in the back is privacy.....

I have no experience with so much space but just looking at the surroundings it seems to me that a row, even a staggered one, would really interrupt the attraction of the vista and be incredibly boring. Could you do something more creative with some singles and some clumps of trees? If they are carefully positioned small 'copses' could both hide the neighbours and enhance the scene in way a solid line would not. You would also be automatically creating some meandering walkways between the trees. And I am sure the knowledgeable people here can come up with much more interesting suggestions than many of those you have had so far. To my eye golden leylandii would be totally egregious in that lovely natural landscape. Arborvitae - yawn.... And to pollard a weeping willow is to completely misunderstand the reason for growing one in the first place. A mix of interesting evergreen and deciduous trees, large and small, singles and small groups has to be doable. Liriodendron would be a must for starters imo. Come on tree folk, let's have some more imaginative suggestions. Don't let hackneyed suburban choices ruin this beautiful spot

I agree that a mix of interesting evergreen and deciduous trees as floral describes would be FAR more appropriate and interesting. And if deer are a problem, as I suspect they are, choose your trees and shrubs carefully and protect them when they're young.

Nice Lab, my favorite breed...

Many decades ago a landscape architect told me this story. He visited a client who lived in a very rural area with a magnificent view of a farmstead off in a distant valley. He wanted the borrowed landscape to be the centerpiece of HIS landscape. He was told that although the view was spectacular, it might not always be there, and maybe a design that didn't showcase the farm would be more appropriate. A while later the LA's client contacted him and told him to go ahead and design with the farm as centerpiece, he had bought the view.

How about your thoughts on the ideas that have been offered thus far, and your ideas on what you would like to see to mask the view and add privacy.

I would plant a staggered row of pines, whatever grows best there (white pine, Shortleaf?). They will create a nice screen when they're young, then as they age and begin to shed lower branches, you could start to underplant with native evergreen shrubs like rhododendron, azaleas, kalmia, or hollies.

I actually bought some P.echinata seedlings from Virginia Forestry Dept several years ago, and even though I'm far south of there, they have grown beautifully for me.

http://dof.virginia.gov/shop/index.htm

Norway Spruce is the easy answer. I find them more attractive then arborvitae, but the arborvitae are native.

Logan L Johnson's suggestion onIlex Opaca is a neat idea. Kind of slow growing, though. I actually like the idea of incorporating some slower growing plants into the mix, though.

Leyland cypress are a bad idea if you have wind or ice storms.

"Cottonwood? Really?! Come on be realistic"

Yes, its a big space. And if you want a sizeable amount of leaves or tree to grow during the next two terms of whichever candidate......

In climates like mine they grow as fast as anything not a weeping willow. They aren't that short lived either and have neat structure, trunks and bark.

I'll add silver maple and sycamore to the list also btw. Fast growth and neat bark. Can get good yellow fall color from the maple.

Any chance of just screening by the pool with shrubbery? Away from the pool maybe there is not as much need for privacy?

Remember, too, that some of these evergreens get HUGE in width over the years (and not all that many years). My neighbor planted white pines along his back fence (suburban lot, about 60 x 170) 20 years ago, and has lost about 20 feet of his back yard - and those pines are not done growing. A mixed planting will give you privacy without turning into a big green wall. You don't mention which way the planting-are-to-be is oriented; which way is west, when we look at the first picture?

Also, IME, you can't go wrong with tulip poplar - they grow fast, they are native, and they are not short-lived - there were two at Monticello that were over 200 years old before they finally came down in a bad storm.

why is there a hole in the fence ....a rail removed ... where is the property line ...

is that a barn.. or a house ...

you bought HUGE plants... will they be professionally planted??? .. how do you plan on watering them????

ken

I was asked my thoughts.... Ideally I would not put a single tree in. Honestly it breaks my heart to do it since the yard is so well laid out, to include the hill and fence line. THe other issue is that we are already crowded up against the rear lot line (the fence is the line) (and the opening is so the kids and dogs can play with each other without having to climb fences)(we love the neighbors) But the issue is that we want privacy. We commute a ways from work out of the city for a reason. What you can not gather from the picture is just how big and how close that structure is, 300' off the back door and 30' tall at about 50' of higher elevation.. if it was a barn for animals we would not be worried but it is a garage shop with an apartment that is heavily used, which means a constant flow of traffic, equipment and other stuff, they have to live there lives too.....

Our goal is privacy, we have other views but want to be able to enjoy the backyard without having to look at other man made things.... MY thoughts are that we will do the initial run of trees (they are being professionally planted) live with that for now and add some color in the form of fruit or smaller deciduous trees once established...

One of the other things is that the living spaces, kitchen and eating nook are both facing that same direction so when I look out the window from the table there is no view above the barn structure.....

We will water 15 gallons per tree per day for 1 week, move to every other day week 2, every 3rd week three and so on..... We have extemely large cherry trees that are very healthy along the same line, being in the middle of a hill that flattens out gives us a great moisture content in the ground.... and the well is right at the corner of the pool fence.....

SO... I want the green wall to block out the structures and we will add some variety later. This is one of those things that if we do not do something now we will keep saying "if we only did this last year"... build the privacy now, add the pretty later....

how did you come up with 15 gals??? .. experience or guessing???

ken

One problem with these sorts of plans is that the number of trees that will block the view nicely in 20 years is much lower then will be needed to block the view now. So if you plant a bunch of trees that looks good now they will eventually crowd each other. This is why I tend to suggest planting a mix of long lived/slow growing/shade tolerant trees (eg ilex opaca beech) and shorter lived ones (eg sycamore, leyland cypress).. Plant any slow growing options early.

How are you arranging these? Arborvitae can form a hedge like wall, Norway spruce are more attractive. Arborvitae tolerate shade and swamp better.

the picture is looking do West up the hill... I agree on the green wall but at this point it is a matter of sanity... Maybe we have issues but seclusion is what we were going for when we moved out this far....

I totally understand about today vs 20 years.... I guess the main question on this thread is spacing.... we were going to put the two Norways on either side of the opening and spread the Arborvitae along the left and right with the heavier concentration to the right....

Watering is per the nursery instructions......

And for the record... I would love to have an expert come take a look but have not found a single person to ask. Everyone says the exact same thing... Bring us pictures.... I know nothing about this kind of stuff and I concerned if we are doing the right thing. Keeping in mind that we will sacrifice some view for privacy.....

OK, I missed that forum, I have moved it over to the landscape design forum per your advice :)

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/4148569/m=23/planting-a-100-treeline-privacy-fence

I'd do what Kentrees said, and move the fence opening to somewhere you don't need the trees. Probably near the left side.

Many years ago, I planted some shrubs to block off our back yard from the neighbors. Then the house sold, and the new owner's kids matched up very well with ours. So for the next ten years, there was a pathway between the shrubs. Then the shrubs got too big, and the path disappeared. By that time, the kids were old enough to go by the road, and spent most of their time socializing at school anyway. What I am trying to say is that if you plant the Norways on either side of the opening, unless you plant them at least 50 ft apart they will grow together and block it. It is a variable that just doesn't need to be part of the discussion.

Yardvaark can probably give you lots of help over in the landscape design forum. I normally wouldn't suggest leyand cypress, but I thought the gold tipped ones were more unique-looking. Cottonwood causes allergies for many people, this and the weak wood is why I would not recommend it. Norway spruce would work, I do like the idea of mixing evergreen and deciduous trees to create multi-season interest.

What about pairing these:

Norway Spruce

Cercis Canadensis 'Floating Clouds'

Cercis Canadensis 'Forest Pansy'

Cercis Canadensis 'Royal White'

Blue Spruce

Lagerstroemia Indica 'Natchez'

Lagerstroemia Indica 'Miami'

Lagerstroemia Indica 'Catawba'

Yes, I did suggest crepe myrtles. I am not aware of the OP's USDA hardiness zone, which would be really helpful in making tree suggestions.

I like two staggered rows of different trees with different life expediencies. That way you can leave space between the trees for them to spread while still blocking the view. Leave some space between the trees you planted and plant something else in front of the gaps. American Holly or sycamore, for instance.

If you want to go with what you have, put the two Norway Spruce in front, between your house and theirs, but closer to your house, and the row of arborvitae close to the fence line. Trees closer to you will provide screening while they are still smaller...the arborvitae will eventually provide screening from the yard.

My usual recommendation for inspiring photos of mixed planting of "woodies" are posts by NHbabs, who designed a lovely screen of conifers,deciduous trees and shrubs. She's just a "normal" gardener like most of us with a keen eye, who did her homework. I know her photos are on the shrubs & New England forums.

if you can be patient enough to bear with our questions and comments and go through a process I am absolutely sure you'll end up with a better design for a long lived , beautiful and healthy tapestry that will be far more interesting than a screen of identical soldier trees

have you already purchased those 15 gallon ones and taken possession of them? I wonder if the nursery would let you exchange them for an equal or bigger order of more varied plants that would make a more interesting border?

im sure someone said this already, but you got the point that smaller trees will establish quicker with less setback and be the same size as your 15 gallon ones in several years. ?

I saw this cool looking variegated english holly from monrovia at lowes. I wonder if you could pair this with the regular english holly or maybe even american holly?

I'm with Mad_gallica and Kentrees that you should move the gate so it isn't centered on what you don't want to look at.

My mixed shrub border had slightly different goals than yours, but the general idea was the same - a way to block an unattractive view. My area had a height limit of 20' or so since we have solar panels behind this, so my particular plants might not work for your use, but having a green wall of only one or two species in such an informal rural setting looks really artificial to my eye, so you might want to consider spacing the trees you have out to closer to their ultimate width, and filling in rows (staggered front to back - see photo 2) with different evergreen species/selections and denser deciduous trees & shrubs so it looks less formal. As someone suggested above, you can do groups or clumps of plants with different heights and species. (Add some bamboo screening - comes in rolls - on and above the fence for now to block between the trees until things fill in a bit.) I used three staggered rows of plants with repetition of several types of evergreens down the length. The bed is about 15' deep and 60' long give or take 10'.

Looking NE from the SW side (June 2010 - planted October 2009)

In December of 2010 after one full growing season looking west from the dirt pile just visible on the right (east) edg

e of the photo above

After 4 growing seasons with some added perennials but not much in the way of added shrubs it is fairly full. Late October 2013

Looking down the back side as fall color is just beginning to develop - no perennials since this is the work area side.

Here's a photo in taken late November 2014 that was from a similar angle to the second photo at the top.

Remember that vehicle traffic on a drive needs less height to block it from view, while you will want more height where the barn is. So perhaps center one spruce on the barn from your most frequent viewing spot and place the other to block the barn from the next-most viewed spot. Randomly space the arborvitaes along the remainder of the length, with some clumped or staggered front to back, again thinking of their ultimate size and your viewing spots. Then get some large shrubs/small trees to add in to hide the view of the drive, considering how densely branched they will be, whether there are flowers or colored foliage or interesting winter features. So something like one of the really large rhododendrons like Roseum elegans might work to block views of the drive (evergreen, flowers, and dense) while you could put a lilac (densely twiggy in winter, spring flowers) slightly offset from one of the evergreens and in a different plane, either set closer to the fence or farther from the fence than the evergreens.

That is a nice shrub border! I really like the fall color,

What an attractive and interesting border. Well done!

Thanks!