Rubber Plant Dying - Drooping Leaves

7 years ago

Hi - I bought a rubber plant from a garden centre around 1-2 months ago. It actually appears to be 4 plants in one pot. I repotted the plant into a self-watering container, but unfortunately some of the plants seem to be suffering.

I am fairly sure that it is not a watering issue as one of the plants is thriving with new leaves developing and a turgid stem throughout. However some of the others are dropping leaves and have shrivelled stems/trunks which leads me to think that there may be an issue with the roots.

i have attached some photos to try to show the issue - if anyone has any advice/ideas as to the problem then I would be very grateful for the help!

Also any ideas as to how to maybe fix it (eg completely removing the dying plant including roots/cutting it from the base and removing/waiting to see how it fares) would be much appreciated. I should note that in 1 month the self-watering pot will be ready to water through the reservoir system (eg water being taken up from below) - not sure if this would likely save the plants that are dying?

thanks for he help!

Matt

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Matt
Original Author

7 years ago

As an update, the plants weren't getting any better so I decided to repot and noticed that the roots had rotten in two of the plants. I therefore repotted the third plant in soil at the ratios Dave provided and the plant is now doing really well, with water draining freely and it is even growing new leaves in the winter.

I think the soil make-up was definitely the main issue. Thanks all for the help.

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Comments (17)

Matt
Original Author
7 years ago

Just another photo to show the issue- the plant on the left seems to be doing well, and the one on the right is the one doing particularly badly
jamilalshaw26
7 years ago
Check the roots. Some of the roots are probably rotted because that soil looks heavy.
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lasher10465, my opinion is that all the stalks are dying upward. The infection reached the growing points of the shortest cane first, affected the leaves and the disorder got your attention. I am willing to bet that if you nick the bark of the existing canes, you will find that the cambium changes from brown to green at about the same level. I won't be surprised if the bark is loosening at the lower levels. I believe that the plant has been overwatered. If you can, examine one of the dead canes and you will probably find that all the (few) roots arise from the base of the cane. That being the case, one should gauge the moisture at that level before watering. The trick appears to be in maintaining a nice balance of air and moisture in the soil near the base. The plant will tolerate dry soil conditions much better than wet. Of course all this remote theorising can be totally off the mark in which case the plant may recover. Hopefully, you will be able to isolate and remedy the root cause, if you will pardon the unintentional pun.
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There are several fungal issues that affect the stems of ficus at the soil line, most originating in the roots because of a soggy soil. If your plant wilts/droops while the soil is still damp, it's a pretty sure bet root function is severely compromised or root rot is in play. You can remove the soil and prune any remaining roots back to healthy tissue and repot, or adopt a wait & see approach & withhold water until you're absolutely sure the soil is almost completely dry. How you described the condition of the trunk at the soil line leaves me doubtful the plant will recover. Al
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There isn't enough information to suggest a probable cause based on what we actually know about the plant's recent care, but based only on the odds, a recent change in light from brighter to dimmer and/or over-watering in the not too distant past would be the likely cause(s), either individually or collectively. Al
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Generally speaking - and I'm no expert here, just have a few houseplants and have been learning a lot from this forum - some plants such as the softer leaves ones will show their displeasure and happiness quite quickly by wilting or perking up quite quickly. But I think some of the thicker leaved firmer plants can look ok for some time even when declining (more water reserves, stronger leaf structure,etc), for example sansevieria (snake plants), so maybe rubber plants are like this too. What I'm trying to say is it may have been going downhill for longer than the two weeks of obvious symptoms. Plus it's possible really high numbers of fungus gnat larvae could have munched on the really fine feeder roots. Although I thought the roots looked good overall. I don't know about the white bugs, you'd need to be sure what they were to know if they damaged it. And the (necessary) repotting was another stress on the plant. Many factors to consider, playing plant detective. It may well be the additive effect of several things. You've had lots of good advice from the experienced people above, on light and soils etc. Personally I would now put it in a bright warm draft-free spot inside, and wait. Don't let the roots dry right out while they're recovering but don't let the soil stay damp either. To achieve this, try using a spray bottle of water on a gentle jet to target where the pruned rootball is, and at the times when you do water more thoroughly leave the pot tilted at 45 degrees (even 30 degrees will help) for 15-20 minutes afterwards and then sit it on towels or paper pushed up against the drain holes for a couple hours. This isn't to remove all the water you just put in, it is to reduce the saturated layer that occurs at the bottom, the "perched water table" (yes, it has a name) Dont fertilise until you see new leaves growing and don't sunburn it by putting it in direct sunshine outside if it's not used to it. Good luck!
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Matt
Original Author
7 years ago
Thanks Jamil - do you mean that the soil might be inappropriate for the plant?

If I were to take out the soil and inspect the roots, could I damage the thriving plant?

Thanks

Matt
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years ago
In all honesty, I'd be quit of the self-watering idea entirely. I'd make sure the plant was in a soil that allows me to water correctly, and I'd be set up with a soluble fertilizer that supplies all the nutrients essential to normal growth. If someone's life is ordered such that they don't have time to water a plant from the top every few days and fertilize maybe once per month, or all they want is a room decoration, why not buy a silk/plastic plant that only requires the occasional touch-up with a feather duster?

Al
Matt
Original Author
7 years ago
Hi Al, I got the self-watering pot as I'm new to gardening and wanted to make sure I was watering it properly. I also go away so don't always have a chance to be there to water the plant, but do get what you mean.

as for the health of the plant, do you have any idea what may be causing this and how to potentially remedy it? At the moment it is not self-watering so I am watering it normally. I also used compost which said that it contained the nutrients necessary for house plants.

Thanks

Matt
Dave
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
As for the heath of the plant, that's easy. Get it out of the self watering container and also into an appropriate soil.

Compost is a bad idea for indoor containers. It's only place ever should be outside, in a garden.

Something such as the 5:1:1 mix would work well for you (I'd recommend gritty, but it seems you're gone for a few days from time to time.)

5:1:1 is a mix you make yourself.

5 parts pine bark fines (screened 1/8"-1/4" or something similar)

1 part peat

1 part perlite (and some dolomite lime)
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years ago
When a plant's stem shrivels while the soil is still moist, it's almost always indicative of limited root function due to poor root health. Often, it will be the result of a systemic fungal infection that started in the roots.

Not knowing where you live, I don't know if "compost" = the European equivalent of potting soil, or you used composted plant matter as your potting medium. If the latter, I'd be surprised if it wasn't excessively water-retentive and very difficult to grow in for that reason. It's difficult to offer suggestions until it's clear what you're growing in.

Al
Matt
Original Author
7 years ago
Thanks both for the help - this is the 'compost' I have been using (see picture)
Matt
Original Author
7 years ago
The other thing I'm slightly confused about is why one plant seems to be thriving even in this soil. I should also add that at the bottom there is a gravel-type specific substrate for drainage
jamilalshaw26
7 years ago
The gravel at the bottom doesnt help drainage it impedes it.

That soil may dry faster in certain areas which is why one part of the plant isnt showing damage.
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years ago
Matt - that one plant tolerates what's killing others in the same pot is something less than a reason to think it's appropriate. Your problem is likely a combination of soil choice and watering before the plant really needs watering. There ARE some things you can do with conventional containers to reduce water retention, but that's not a conventional container. Reducing water retention and a little less exuberance from the quarter of the plant tender would likely go a long way toward at least changing the pot/soil/watering habit combination from potentially deadly to something the plant will tolerate.

You might find this helpful.

Al
Matt
Original Author
7 years ago
Thanks Al, I'll go easy on the watering in the next few weeks and see how it fares.

If it still shows no sign of recovery then I will look to remove it from the pot and look if the roots have rotted, try to sort that and repot with the ratios set out above.

Thanks all for the help, and of course any further guidance is much appreciated.

Matt
nomen_nudum
7 years ago
Matt - that one plant tolerates what's killing others in the same pot is something less than a reason to think it's appropriate.

Most folks can tolerate a crying child too.
Matt
Original Author
7 years ago
That's why I repotted into more appropriate soil...
Lauren (Zone 9a)
7 years ago
Congratulations, Matt, on the successful repot. I'm glad you were able save one of them!
nomen_nudum
7 years ago
Keep in mind it takes a little time for roots / it to adapt to it's re-potted soil if going outside for spring it preference indirect sun with some full sun moderate heat in the 70 F - 90 F range with infrequent slightly heavy drink in those conditions.

Is good to read it's out of a SWC pot.

Rubber Plant Dying - Drooping Leaves

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