Alright, so thanks for all the good advice, though in the end that way didn't work out for me, as I will be out of town for the next two weeks and couldn't get things in time to get them into the ground before leaving. So I decided to make do with what I can get locally, and try to make the best out of it. There's always next year and better planning to extend or do over what I started now. So I got three apple trees between 2 and 3 years old, I think. It'll give me an opportunity to compare the different local sources. Tree 1, the cheapest one ($19) is from Home Depot, Golden Delicious (Dwarf). What was very noticable when planting is that the tree was apparently just stuck into a pot a short time ago, there were was not much on it in terms of roots at all, and the potting mix fell right off. Because of that, and the kinda screwed-up structure, I pruned that tree heavily: Golden Delicious before: and after pruning: I got a $59 Dwarf Honeycrisp tree from a local expensive-ish nursery. However, that tree is 3 if not 4 years old (can't remember now). It had a couple of fruit buds on it, most of which fell victim to my pruning. This tree was in a big pot with an extensive root system, so it must have been grown in this pot for quite some time. I had to untangle / cut lots of circling roots. The shape still isn't that great, the lower branches are at 45 degrees, but I'll keep them and see how it goes. A second, higher, scaffold was started, but it's only short spurs at this time. Honeycrisp tree before pruning I didn't prune it that heavily yet, but looking at the close-up, I think I need to prune off most of the leader (down into two-year old wood) in order to get the 2nd scaffold to grow (hopefully). Does that sound right? I'll try to train down the lower branches, though they're not very flexible anymore. Finally, I got Liberty, semi-dwarf from another nursery at $29, and one to hopefully give me a break on disease. This one is two-years old, has a well developed lower scaffold made from 3 branches. Root-wise, it was so-so. Apparently it is a vigorous grower, as last season the central leader grew more than 3, if not 4 feet. I headed it quite a bit down to start a 2nd scaffold, and I'm trying to train the 1 scaffold to grow more outwards then up (it's currently kinda curved, leaving the trunk at a good angle but then turning upwards. Should I head the side branches? If so, at what point? Liberty before pruning: That's what it currently looks like (except that I used bamboo stakes to straighten the branches): I got no experience with pruning at all, other than what I learned from the internet, so any advice is very welcome. Also, I already got bugs on the Honeycrisp, some very tiny beetles or something, all black, which are apparently munching on the just opening buds (small holes in the new leaves already). Should I do something about them? If so, what? Thanks ;)

Wow. I thank you all for the great advice! Yeah, I guess I'm a bit disappointed that it's on EMLA111. I was hoping the tree would be a bit smaller than that. I too don't understand why they'd go with 111... especially since they are very highly regarded at my nursery, and they obviously know what their doing when it comes to the grafting & training. O'well... we'll adjust. I believe in order to grow another tier, typically you'd allow a new leader to grow slightly above where you want the next level. At that point you'd head it leaving at least 2 buds where you want your new branches to come out (one on either side ideally). Right, that was going to be my plan. I wonder how much higher I should let it go? Maybe 4 inches beyond the desired new lateral height? Skip some of the historical chapters in Tukey's book for now. Read the chapter on Summer Pruning. that will give you the most immediately applicable info to your situation. Next, go backwards a little and read the chapter titled Principles Of Pruning And Training. I've got the book open right now. Thanks! It is a little unusual to place a trained, espalier tree in a freestanding situation as you have done. Normally, such a tree would be sited next to a wall or fence, where some support is already available, or could be built without appearing out of place. Yeah, I knew this location wasn't typical, but I was figuring it would still work out nicely because I've already got a bunch of trellises in the back yard, and really, it helps one from feeling like they're going to fall off my raised back yard. Since I've already got all the trellises back there, it will probably fit right in with all the others! :-) The long lateral branches of an espalier will require support to keep their shape I guess my question here is... will they need support for the entire life of the tree? Or just while the tree is growing? Or, does it just need support to bear the weight of the apples? Being that the tree is currently 6 feet tall, and about 1.5¨ at the trunk, anybody want to venture a guess as to how old it is? The good news is that you don't have to do anything at the moment, except study;) . Yep, I've got a lot to learn. Right now, I know enough to be dangerous! :-) Thanks again! -Glenn

FWIW, I got one apricot tree from Stark Bros. and it was healthy but half the size/caliper of those from Raintree, Dave Wilson Nursery or One Green World but comparable price. I am no expert but I would cut the leader back by half to relieve the burden on the (insufficient) root system (as above so below). It will grow back once the roots get established. I cut all my new trees down to 24" above the graft union. The one I did not, because I want it to provide shade, had a skimpy root system and did not show signs of life for many weeks after all the others were fully leafed out - I should have cut that one back too.

This year is a terrible year for black spot & fungus diseases not to mention bugs. My apple trees look like this also. There are 3 possibilities and probably all 3 are the cause: Fungus, Bugs,& nutrient deficiency. In order I do the following: Use GreenCure, www.greencure.net for the fungus possibility. Two, Liquid Seven for the surface bugs. Yes, I know its a chemical, however, there are very few alternatives in the organic market. Also for the underground bugs, I use beneficial Nematodes to put in the ground. These are microscopic worms that eat the larva & pupa from the inside out and spread. Completely harmless to human and animals, plants. These puppies eat over two hundred different types of bad bugs in the ground. Contact Jennifer at Vammi Beneficials. www.vammibeneficials.com and mention my website link below for a 5% discount on your order. Lastly, the nutrient deficiency. It's too late in your zone to fertilize. Fall will be here tomorrow and I would suggest leaving this alone until next spring. Use some 10-10-10 fertilizer in moderate amounts and wash in thoroughly. Here is a link that might be useful: Green Anything !