chiming in a tad late but I have recently been forced into accepting this system of finishing with a proven track record of german engineering / specifications/ to standards we have yet to learn. clearly and at least twice, I read that you should be a professional to even consider using our guidelines in that some things are difficult, if not impossible to achieve the âÂÂimpossibleâ caught my attention I am a fond lover of this product, but wish I had a tad more notice, as to learn its limitations. I really like how it can make a piece of wood as dry, as if you picked it up a sunbaked piece of driftwood off a beach you paddled by in a canoeâ¦. the âÂÂdry lookâ there is a certain attraction, to making wood, look âÂÂdryâ not even a fraction of moisture, ⦠raw in nature, and yet hold a finish for standards only know to europe that trys to level the field. its a nice finish, in the hands of those who love the craft Im a tad new with the product, but so far its the best Ive ever seen, at keeping things âÂÂnaturalâ whilst maintaining the comforts of âÂÂeasyâ living a question for those who care to share their experience have you ever had any luck shading the parts of the tree, that bares the light part of the grain, that rears its beautiful light, or have you been able to shade it ? or are parts of the pdf, file, on using this product, âÂÂunlikely or impossibleâ to achieve

It is unlikely that any 'asbestos dust' is going to fall through cracks into the basement; large particles might, but not 'dust'. If your removal releases any fibers, those are going to become airborne real easy and remain suspended for a time. Testing would be the way to go and then you can make your decision about removal.

Harvester Chemicals of Irvington NJ will ship most anything to you UPS. Search the internet for their contact information, as I am away from the office for a few days. You can say that Sohm Flooring Consultants referred you to them. Foam brushes from a True Value hardware store are the best applicators to use with waterborne sealer and waterborne polyurethane when doing stairs. They will allow you to 'dry brush' sealer and finish on the vertical wood parts (stringers, risers, balusters). BonaKemi has a new sealer called DTS, which they claim imparts a little color and richness to a floor that is finished 'natural' (no stain). I haven't used it yet. I do use their DriFast stains and won't stain with anything else. I don't buff stairs at all. I finish sand to 120 grit, stain or seal and then just knock down grain raise with a little hand sanding with 180 grit or higher. Traffic will stick to most anything and... so long as your next coats of Traffic aren't more than 24 hours old, there is no need to buff between coats unless you are knocking down grain raise or attempting to remove debris. Remember that Traffic or any other floor chemical is a dangerous substance in its uncured state, so be sure to provide for sufficient fresh air as you work. Open windows and fans to exhaust fumes is a good idea. I use an organic respirator when working with Traffic and although the respirator is not rated for use with isocyanate compounds it does work to some degree.

When it comes to hardwood, trends are something to ignore! Why? Because hardwood is pretty much a lifetime purchase, and unless yours is damaged in some way, you're probably not going to replace it. So, light wood vs. dark wood, wide planks vs. narrow planks -- that stuff's all going to come and go. With that in mind -- as well as the very real concerns about cleaning dark wood -- I'll vote for a nice, neutral midtone every time. Not too much contrast, not too red, and (unless it's a beach house) not too pale. I think this is the wood that's most likely to give you good service and stand the test of time.