Thanks, Josh! :) It is just bent so I will tie it up and see what happens. Sorry about the unclear image, I had trouble getting my camera to focus on that one stem. :( Anthony, I am using a fine orchid mix with perlite that I added (I believe I did 3 parts mix, 1 part perlite, as suggested from another discussion thread) (I live in southwest Arizona with a lack of access to good gardening centers and since I wanted to re-pot in a hurry to save the plants from the stalk that had root rot after receiving them I was unable to "build my own" soil). I was planning to re-pot in a year or two with better material I am going to order online and move to the next size or higher pot. Unless you feel I need to re-pot sooner. Right now, it is in a 6 inch pot. They were 3 small braided trees grouped together in a relatively small rectangular pot when I received them so I had thought a 6 inch pot would give them room to grow (without causing too much stress) as they would be separated in their own pots. This is the largest of the three small braided trees I have. Unless the tree's roots have grown at an exceptional rate since June I do not think it is pot bound (but, of course I could be wrong, this is my first time caring for these plants and I know little about gardening). I moved them, a few weeks ago, to a west facing window with better sunlight thinking they were getting too little light in the east window I had them in due to an awning being in the way and have been giving the supplements suggested here. I've seen improvement so I was doing the waiting game on the drooping. Thank you for the advice and taking the time to help. I appreciate it greatly!

Sugi - In restrospect, I would have gone one pot size up. At the store, the pots looked so big that I didn't want them to start taking over the living room. They also looked like the same size as the existing pots, but ending up being just barely smaller which caused all my troubles. As for cutting in half/whacking them, I've gone with Al's advice to wait and see how they grow. Repotting was just the first step to improving their health! Hopefully I'll be able to control their growth a bit, while still keeping them both very healthy. The Schefflera is doing great with lots of new growth. The tree is growing now in three places: the left side straight up, the top (very small near the ceiling), and the right (obscured). I'm pretty happy about that! The Dracena... not so much. I kind of suspected it because the tree wasn't doing the best even before root pruning. It is in a very slow decline since repotting - the upper leaves have drooped a bit, while the lower leaves have just begun yellowing the other day. I'm really hoping the tree can balance its canopy to roots quickly. Here are photos of each that I just took (to compare with the original photos in the OP):

This link will be helpful: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/2842847/container-soils-water-movement-and-retention-xxii?n=419 give it as much light as you can. If you're in the Southern Hemisphere, a south facing window would be best. Place it right up in front, not a few feet away. Water from the top only. Water until it runs out the drain hole, but discard the collected water and never let it sit in that. Water as the plant needs it. Stick your finger a couple inches into the soil, or feel the soil at the drain hole. Water when it feels dry.

If the humidity level is high enough, the fan won't be a problem, but if it's sub-40%, it will be. I'm not sure how you have your plant set up for drainage, but at least one hole should be through the bottom at some point. Even if the holes in the sides are 1/8" above the bottom - that's a problem. There should be no way the effluent that exits the drain hole should have a pathway back into the pot. If it was my plant, I'd be using a wick to assist drainage, I'd water it over the sink, then tip the pot at a 45* angle with the wick hanging down from the lowest point in the pot bottom (as though you tipped figure E 45* to the right)until the planting stops draining. 3 weeks between waterings is a certain indicator you're leaving a lot of your plant's potential untapped. Another way of saying that is, 3 weeks between waterings is a sure indication there is a significant degree of limitation in play due to an overly water-retentive soil. You would be doing well to flush the soil and fertilize with regularity, and plan a full repot (as opposed to potting up) into a medium that allows you to water correctly. Al