Having a 20X 50ft conrete slab removed on Tues, tree soil question
ilovemytrees
7 years ago
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Help for next year's new garden
Comments (8)I'm going to be the wet blanket, k. :) We have 8 acres in the middle of farming country. We don't farm for our livelihood, but we have a horse and donkey, cats and a dog, a large yard, fences and outbuildings to maintain. Quite frankly, it's more than we can keep up with - we're only two people with a two-year-old daughter and plans for another little one in the near future. Our vegetable garden is a modest 55 x 65' not including the perennial beds (asparagus, berries, etc.) and it's all I can do to keep up. Considerations of country gardens: a) You will be constantly battling weeds no matter how good your practices. Unless you garden exclusively in a greenhouse, you WILL have weed and tree seeds blowing into your yard from EVERYWHERE. Nice little board fences don't exist out here. b) An acre is 43,560 square feet (roughly 209 x 209 feet in area). That's a far cry from 250 square feet (roughly 16 x 16 feet). I'm really confused as to the real area you're planning on gardening. c) Our own yard is merely an old hay field that has been mowed for so many years that it resembles quite a nice "lawn" as long as we keep up with it. If we get behind, we get all sorts of clumps of various clovers and alfalfa. This also means that no matter how much time we spend digging grass roots in the garden, they're always faster than us. Good luck "clearing the area of grass" - it's not as easy as it might seem, given the habits of tenacious farm grasses. d) Really sit down and consider just how much time you are going to have to spend just maintaining what is already there. Really. Unless you've maintained a farm before, you honestly have no idea. I can easily see a tree farm taking huge amounts of time to maintain (although you didn't say what kind of trees) - pruning, irrigation, etc. So, unfortunately, I'm just going to skip down and answer your last question. Yes. Too ambitious... for now. I strongly suggest that - as hard as it may be - you take one or even two years to acclimate yourselves to life in the country and on your farm. Garden on the previous owner's plot or make yourself a new bed the same size or only slightly larger than what you garden now. Your head is probably spinning with all the possibilities for your new place and you may not be seeing the practical aspects yet. I don't want to douse your enthusiasm. I just feel I have to inject a tiny bit of reality. Actually, I'm really jealous. ;) I'd love to have more land (and time) for pastures and hay....See Moreraised beds
Comments (20)You might put an ad in your local paper or swap shop publication - for the free fill concrete - "break and take" so to speak - you never know who might need some filler for something....never hurts to put your request out there! We have a paper called The Peddler and I have never ceased to be amazed at what I can sell in it. I am no expert like most of the people who are answering you, but it would be a shame to haul in all that soil [I just got finished hauling great soil in for several beds] and have it to not work. The only other suggestion I could make is for someone with a jackhammer to come in and punch lots of holes for drainage in the slab. But that still might not work. Or....make a patio out of the slab and cut some trees.......Were it me, I would put out a "free" ad first - if that didnt work, get bids on taking it out. Then do the bed. My dad taught me something that has always served me well - do it right the first time, then you dont have to redo. After just finishing hauling all that dirt [and more to come for some new beds] I would certainly not want to do that unless I knew the bed would work. Good luck! Where there is a will, theres a way! Judith...See MoreDouble Digging Questions
Comments (17)Molasses is one of the best microbial foods you can use. I don't know that you need to use the molasses in the middle of the process though. Remember, after you turn in all the compost you will have created plenty air spaces for the water to move around. After you are finished mix 2T of molasses to a gallon of water. The water will take the molasses down to where the microbes are. Just be sure to water deep so the water can penetrate. It is usually best to water a little bit at first and then the next day increase the amount of water. Water moves faster, and more efficiently through soil that is already moist. A 1/2 " on Monday, 3/4" on Tuesday, and then a really good soaking on Wednesday. You can also add fish emulsion or fish Hydrolizate to the molasses water as well. Fish Hydrolizate is very good for fungi. Letting the soil alone after you turn it is good for the fungi. While bacteria are so small that they can handle the turning of the soil much better; fungi are not so tolerant of turning. They are really large, in comparison, and turning the soil really puts the hurt on them. If you have a compost pile and have seen long white threads going all through the pile, that is fungi. One other thing molasses does is it provides the microbes their own food source. Microbes need energy in order to break down and digest the organic material in the soil. If they do not have an energy source they will use the fertilzer that is in the soil for their food. So adding some molasses gives the microbes a good shot of the carbon bonds they need and helps reduce their need to compet with the plants for the fertilizer as an energy source. As you continue to add more organic material on top of the soil and then water it in well you will make sure the level of organic life in the soil remains high. It is the micribrobial life (bacteria and fungi) that are getting in between the clay particles that prevents the clay from sticking together. In addition to loosening up the soil, bacteria is also a worm attractant because the bacteria are worm food. Worms do not have teeth. Worms do not eat leaves, sawdust, or vegetable scraps, etc. they eat the microbes in the soil. As long as you keep the garden area moist the worms will hang around and do even more great things for the soil - like tunnel holes and leave their castings in the soil. When I double digged my garden I took out a full shovel full of soil and laid it to the side. I then looseded up another shovel full of soil in the trench. I then added a whole bunch of compost at this point. I then put back the first shovel of soil and again mixed another good amount of compost with this. Always moving from the trench I just dug to the new hard soil. That way I was not trampling all over my freshly dug trenches. You don't have to do a trench either. You can dig out a 3x3 square area and to the same thing moving from sauare to sauare. I found this worked great on my second bed. As far as the person who said that all you will do is create a hole for the water to accumulate, the idea is not to make individual holes. The idea is to do the entire bed. By doing the entire bed you allow the water to move from the high spots to the low spots and hopefully this will allow enough time for the water to drain. But you would be right if you only did individual holes, you would get little wells where the water collect - not a good thing. The important thing here is that it is the microbes in the soil that loosens up hardpan soil - not the tilling. The tilling/turning is only the mechanism that is used to get the organic matter down deep, fast. It is the microbes that provide a food source for the worms. And it is the microbes in the soil that break down the fertilizer and put it in a form the plants can use (I am talking organic fertilizers here, not chemical fertilizers). Plants also break down fertilizer by mixing CO2 with the water in the soil. This makes an acid that disolves the fertilzer which allows the plant to then take it up. Just mix in lots of compost and you will be set. Tom...See MoreAn Orchid on Every Tree
Comments (33)Stan, wedging will sometimes work...but it's rare to be able to wedge something tight enough where it doesn't shift because of a strong wind or a direct hit from the hose. So if you don't see any new roots attaching to the tree within the next couple of weeks...here are the possible causes... 1. insufficient light/heat - the closer you are to the coast, the more direct sun you'll need to give CAM orchids and/or intermediate/warm growers. 2. pests - slugs/snails can really climb! Sowbugs will also eat orchid roots and new growth. Not sure if mice/rats/squirrels will eat new roots but they will sure eat the pseudobulbs. 3. loosely attached - if an orchid has wiggle room, the delicate root tips can be broken off. Unlike Tillandsias, orchids are all about the roots. Moss is essential for some orchids...generally speaking orchids that lack decent storage facilities...such as most Pleurothallids. But moss has the significant drawback of providing a perfect haven for slugs, sowbugs and millipedes. Plus, it's risky to use with orchids that like to dry out between waterings...such as CAM orchids. It's not so much an issue during summer...but it can greatly increase the chances of rot during our occasionally wet winters. Regarding broken off pieces...it depends how large they are. If they are small enough that I'd lose track of them on a tree...then I'll tightly attach them to a piece of wood that I can hang somewhere....See Moreilovemytrees
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