Story of how I got my 2nd citrus, plus 2 questions
figsinhawaii
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Laura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Round 2: My 2nd KD came in at $166- my budget was $100.
Comments (100)Talia -- I'm so glad you decided against the firm! I didn't want to offer an opinion before as I have no experience with a kitchen reno in your budget. Mine was a relatively modest $20k - no structural work but I replaced every single thing. The one thing we do have in common though is that I didn't have time to manage my project either -- but I didn't have a choice, having a "more than full time" job/career. Yet when I fantasized about having a GC, I realized, "who am I kidding? I'm gonna be all over this no matter who is in charge! It's my home!" I did luck out though, finding the best licensed, insured, experienced carpenter, contractor -- George -- I could have found through asking around a LOT. Amazing, really. As the "GC" I hired the electrician, plumber and floor tile guy, (all referrals) but not without consulting George, my carpenter first who had a ton of experience and knowledge of other trades who checked their costs first for me, helped me tweak and negotiate, etc. George helped me with my lighting plan, a rather extensive one, for me and then he came here with me and "supervised" to make sure it was done right and according to plan. When I couldn't get out of a work meeting and get home for my granite install, George jumped in and then fielded a major problem with the island -- cut wrong size -- fabricator error. He called the fab and quickly resolved the problem and a new island top was put in the following week. And George? He removed and demo'd old cabs, installed the new ones and moldings and trim, cleared all trash and did cleanup, made me a second pantry with new door and shelves, put in new sink and faucet, new range and micro, new dishwasher and fridge, moved a misplaced chandelier (my fault) and patched/painted ceiling hole, kicked out the sloppy painter and found me a new one, patched kitchen floor after I decided to move a radiator a month after floor had been done, added new saddles... and I'm sure I missed a few things... which came to about $2,500. I gave him an additional $500.00 which he finally did take... not just for his extra supervision of others (that he throughly enjoyed doing and did so well with a very gentle touch) and jumping over here when I needed him and answering my 1,000+ questions about everything, but for caring about this job as if it were his own home. (I also gave him a like-new circular saw that I used only once some months ago and have been too scared to use again.) I also gave him 2 referrals that have turned into good jobs for him. Really, I feel like I owe him so much more! I think there are some real GEMS out there at reasonable cost that just need to be found. Of course with your budget and plans, you need more than a lone super-dedicated carpenter, but I'm hoping you'll find a firm or KD or GC or all three that will be your "George!" Note to Lovestocook -- I found 2 great Mauviel pieces at Home Goods! More great gems at......See Morenew build-What size 2nd story windows are you using? Sill heights?
Comments (15)Thank you all for the help! I'm really unsure how to move forward from this point. It sounds like I probably should have hired an architect from the beginning. Or, at a minimum contracted directly with the designer to prepare the plans instead of him being sub-contracted through the builder. The one time I was able to speak to the designer, he seemed knowledgeable, so I don't want this to sound judgmental towards him. I think we just got ourselves into a poor process from the start, where the builder is the middle man and there is probably lots lost in transmission. Would it be worth it at this point to consult with an architect? The foundation is poured, so there is only so much we can change. Plus, we already have financing, so there is definitely a limit to changes without blowing our budget. Windows should still be easy enough. Would an architect even want to touch this at this point? I'm not even sure what services I would need from him/her at this point? What I normally do... is to locate the egress window (only one is required per bedroom) ...on the sides.... So, if I understand this correctly, this wouldn't resolve the issue of needing to switch window types (double hung to casement/slider) to avoid the 18" sill height, but it will put the window on a less noticeable side of the house. My three windows were placed higher and ganged together and they were narrower. On the other wall I made the single window wider and then added a window seat below it. That sounds like a lovely way to disguise mismatched windows. Do you have a picture of the window seat/egress window? I tried searching through your older posts, but didn't see it. I'd suggest a traditional approach often used in 2- and 3-story traditional residences, i.e., the windows on the first floor were the largest; the windows on the second floor were visually smaller; and the windows on the third or any other upper level, such as dormers, were the smallest of all. Virgil, thank you for lesson. I've always felt something wasn't quite right with the elevation, but couldn't figure out what it was. Part of what is triggering this ordeal, is that the plans were drawn with 10' & 9' ceilings, but the budget was based on 9' & 8'. When I caught the discrepancy, the builder didn't want to change the plans. I insisted because there is no way you can take out 2 vertical feet and not need to reevaluate the elevation, right?? Loosing those extra feet really made the larger 2nd story windows look odd and when I requested smaller windows, I was told they didn't meet code...would need casement windows...blah, blah....See MoreIs a 2nd story door necessary in raised ranch?
Comments (9)Check with your local building codes, go to city hall and ask. You probably have enough egress to close off door (ways of exiting house in case of emergencies) which would include windows also, if sized for egress. Explanation, a bedroom requires two ways of exiting, the door to the bedroom, and the window in bedroom must be of a certain size (code will tell you what size opening is required) . When I purchased my home I had a sliding door to where the deck would be (I have a split level entry like you have) but no deck was built, I had it built after purchasing house. It was legal to have door to "nowhere" because there were three 1x4 across the door for a railing of sorts, meant to be temporary. That was legal. I had a apartment once that did not have a deck but had sliding glass door, they had metal wrought iron, I guess you would call railing across the bottom half. That was built that way, all the upper floor apartments (2story) had that in a large apartment complex and it's still like that 40 years later....See MoreAdvice on 2nd story addition
Comments (31)Just wanted to provide an update since I got such thoughtful comments when I originally posted: We pulled the trigger and are now about half-way through the remodel. It took 11 months for the permits to be approved and the contractors estimated it would take ~9 months to complete the job. We were extremely fortunate and were able to rent the house next-door during the construction. We just got lucky - neighbors were renters who were moving-out at the right moment. The move was easy and there's been basically no disruption for the family since we're able to stay on the same street with our friends. The job is quite a bit more extensive than I appreciated it would be. It was basically a tear-down except one bedroom and two bathrooms were left intact on the ground floor. Everything else was basically demolished and half the foundation was ripped-up to reinforce. Turns-out it's complicated adding a second story to a house that wasn't built for one. Realizing this has helped me get comfortable with the cost, for what it's worth: I was under the impression that adding 1300 square feet was costing something like $800/sqft which seems insane, but in actuality, the ~1600 sqft on the ground floor are being completely rebuilt, too, so it's more like $400/sqft to build a 2900 sqft house. Still a lot, but seems reasonable on a per-sqft basis. Below is progress from ~6 weeks ago -- basically a new house. We were filled with trepitation at the start of this, but honestly now that it's getting closer to completion we're really excited and feeling good about the decision. The new house will be amazing, the construction has gone smoothly (knock on wood) and we get to keep our community which took years to cultivate. It's been really fun to watch the construction and the design-build firm has been pretty good about everything. Permits took a long time, but they 100% handled it. I walk the house with the GC once a week and have had a few meetings and discussions of course, but basically they just take care of everything. I'll post again at the end of the job, but for now we're feeling pretty good about the decision. Thanks for all the thoughtful comments...See Morefigsinhawaii
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agofigsinhawaii
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agomyermike_1micha
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agofigsinhawaii
7 years agofigsinhawaii
7 years ago
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