So who's making next year's plans already?
7 years ago
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Already Planning for Next Year
Comments (5)I always start out my seed-buying adventures with Pinetree Seeds (superseeds.com), because they have a good selection and very reasonable prices. After that, I like Baker Creek, Territorial, Tomato Growers Supply. You might also try Seeds of Change, Seed Savers Exchange, Cook's Garden, Victory Seeds. You'll probably want until next seed-buying season to peruse all that's available out there. Just be sure to order early, as some of the companies were back-logged with unusually high demand this year due to the resurgence in interest in gardening. You'll never be satisfied with the same old stuff once you've tried Rosa Bianca eggplants, Cheddar cauliflower, violet-podded pole beans, asparagus beans, speckled trout lettuce, Redventure celery and the whole rainbow of heirloom tomatoes and peppers. Enjoy!...See MorePlanning Next Year's Garden
Comments (3)Hi, Kimmsr I've been gardening in this yard for 20 years, so I am finally coming to understand some of its quirks. The biggest is that I'm on a mountain side and have a cool climate, with NO time when the average temperature is over 70 (daytime temp plus night-time temp divide by 2), so theoretically a lot of summer heat-lovers won't ripen here. It really limits second crops of anything, including peas. I've never gotten a summer-sown crop of peas to ripen, although they make a nice cover crop on bare soil. All hot-weather crops MUST be short season cultivars. OTOH, January King is a cabbage I've successfully grown before, planting in the spring when "spring" cabbages go in and harvesting in November. It actually never slows down, as we don't have a "hot" part of the summer. Soil test for organic matter: Unimproved soil 0%, garden beds worked for 20 years, 4%-8%. Soil type: clay with tuff (that's a volcanic rock) rubble. Drainage: hahahahahaha Dig a hole to bedrock, put a hose in it and turn it on, give up after half an hour. Nope, not going to happen. This is alpine desert, even with clay soil it doesn't hold any moisture except in the shade and under thick mulch. That's why I plan to FINALLY plant in the house's snow shadow. (I've always avoided it before because it makes for an even shorter garden season. DS's garden is there because he chose the location and I didn't argue with the kid who was going to do the hard work of digging it.) Tilth. Foreign concept. You would hate gardening here. Smell. Yup, a pleasant, dirty odor. Soil bacteria are rare here, they need organic matter to thrive, and organic mater burns out of desert soils fast. Life. Oh, yeah, got that. In my garden beds earthworms are thriving (and eating up my organic matter). DS and I consider ourselves excellent worm ranchers. But you only find worms in damp soil. It took me years of mediocre vegetable gardens to realize that 1 inch of moisture per week was laughable in this climate, and drip irrigation just makes clay pots that are a bit deeper but no wider than the damp spot on the surface of the soil if I used that "1 inch" advice. The worms are thriving now that I deep soak my garden at least every other day. Previously they were a bit sparse. The garlic, however, needs water in the winter, and I haven't been able to get it to them on the upper terrace. My hose bib is on the north side of the house, and if I left it "live" during the winter it would be frozen, and it is often buried anyway by what little drifted snow we get. Anyway, I really didn't need the advice on how to create a new garden, I have been here, done that. Different climates, different needs. I was just wondering if anyone else had deliberately planted their seeds in a dry late-autumn/early-winter garden rather than trying to plant their early-spring garden all at once during the late-winter storms? Wet soil and rotting seeds are NEVER a problem here (even our snow is dry), so maybe it's not possible in more hospitable gardening climates. Catherine...See MorePlanning for next year...which one's?
Comments (24)Hal, I have both of the ones you are interested in and haven't had any problem with Venosa Violacea in the three years I have had it. Florida 'Sieboldi' was planted last fall, began developing flowers,but they failed to develop prior to our first frost. This spring it started growing like gangbusters and in mid-flower, it wilted terribly--not sure whether it was clematis wilt or something nibbling at its roots. It failed to recover from its malady so I cut it to the ground. It has since come back up and is attempting to set buds again this fall. Let's see if it makes it before the first frost. As for hardiness, there is a lot of conflicting inforamtion on the hardiness of various clematis. Clematis on the Web has a survey going for people to provide input as to what clematis they have been able to grow in various zones. I encourage anyone who has information to contribute to do so. This will provide an invaluable resource for people in the future who, like you, are asking these types of questions. Venosa Violacea is a viticella and would probably survive the zones you are inquiring about--especially with a good mulching. Florida 'Sieboldii' is another story and my gut reaction would be that it wouldn't survive in your zone. A lot of the florida cultivars were once thought to be hardy to only zone 7. However, Bill Bird and Suzymac, both in zone 6 Massachusetts if memory serves me right, have been able to grow it in their gardens. Bill especially had a wonderful specimen that was covered with flowers that he posted a few years ago. If you really want to try it, I would suggest mulching it exceptionally well---perhaps mulching heavily and then filling a large planting bucket with leaves and inverting it over the planting area to further insulate the root system. A few bricks on top would help prevent your bucket from blowing over due to the winter winds. The Toomey and Leeds book lists VV as being hardy in zones 3 thru 9, but then turns around and lists 'Sieboldii' as only being hardy in zones 7-9 and suggests it as a good candidate for the conservatory. This zone information is in direct contradiction to Bill Bird's and Suzymac's ability to get it to survive in their Massachusetts gardens....See MoreDisappointing this year--already thinking of next year...
Comments (12)PixieLou, it's always a learning experience. My spinach was a dud this year. Planted only one week later than last year (which was a fantastic year) but a bust. Heard cold, wet spring affected others too in our area, even the market gardeners. I have a partly sunny space on the east side of our house, actually, some of it extends to the driveway so it also has a southern exposure ... but shade from a maple tree part of the day. I planted cherry tomatoes there this year expecting them to not do as well because of less sun and they are scrawny. We'll probably have plenty of cherry tomatoes, which are beginning to ripen, but not the huge harvests of previous years. This is the same bed that was originally my herb garden but I moved to herbs to a new bed next to my kitchen porch. They are doing astoundingly well in that location. Maybe that original bed gets evenn less sun than I thought. What are the sun conditions for your beds? Maybe those perennials need more sun? I used to try to grow sun loving perennials in part sunny conditions and it was really a waste of time and money. I can see where some parts of my garden need additional organic matter (the old herb bed) and a hurried lasagna style bed needs more manure/dirt. I see evidence of blossom end rot so a sure sign those particular tomato plants aren't getting enough nutrients. OTH the good news is that germination was better in pots (herb seeds) when I moved them away from a hot southern spot against the house (further reflection from white house) to the porch steps that get some of that maple tree shade part of the day. I am disappointed in my potting soil. The big plastic pots that are doing better have composted horse manure in the bottom, potting soil on top. The potting soil dries out quickly and seems to have too much peat moss in it. My vegetable beds which get the great composted horse manure are black, soft and full of earthworms. Not so, my flower beds. The herbs don't seem to mind. I'd say the poorer soil seems sandier, finer particles which probably don't hold water very well. Good luck to everyone. Striped cucumber beetles have made winter squash a bust this year and I'm only now just getting my first cucumbers for a second try. So even my great vegetable garden soil isn't enough....See More- 7 years ago
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