It depends ..... From another post: "How large a container needs to be, or CAN be, and how much soil a planting needs/will tolerate before drainage & saturation is an issue depends on the 3-way relationship between plant mass, container size, and soil type. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of basic knowledge about the 3-way relationship noted, which should logically determine appropriate container size(s). It's often parroted that you should only move up one size in containers when "potting-up". The reasoning is the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the material and soil type/composition that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not consecutive volume progression. Plants grown in slow soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil. This (smaller soil volumes) and the root constriction that accompanies it will cause plants to extend and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have you sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers or volumes of soil per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a large volume of soil that is too slow and water-retentive. We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the PWT in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (saturated). So, if you aim for a soil composed primarily of particles >1/16", there is no upper limit to container size. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations." You can grow a very small plant in a very large container if the soil holds little or no perched water (saturated soil). Al

piantini - - no, not wrong at all. Just very different circumstances. ;) If you have the ideal growing conditions that a nursery/greenhouse provides AND if you start the plants at the ideal time for planting or sale in your zone then that size is usually no problem. In fact many nurseries grow the plants to 8" in plug flats and only plop them into the cell packs immediately prior to sale. So what you see when you buy them aren't necessarily what they were grown in. But if the plants are already 6 weeks old as posted here and in the OP's previous posts and the OP still has 6 weeks or more to go before he can plant them and they are growing in less than ideal conditions in terms of light etc. then a larger container is preferable. Does that help clarify? Dave

I'm "Bob" I was using my partners account for this thread. My seedlings were looking really good they had all branched out by early Oct 2016 and were nice little fatties with round ping pong size caudex and 3-5 branches. Unfortunately i moved to a new place that had alot of property, but no room to grow indoors. I went on a trip to Florida and was afraid it was going to get too cold so I had a roommate bring them into a hoophouse that was on the property, with all the rest of my tender plants. The hoop house was unventilated and there were a couple days where the temps bounced back to the low to mid 90s, the hoop house temps got to around 115-120+ degrees F. The sap in all my adenium, plumerias, and dorstenias "boiled" and exploded. i was devistate when i came home to a bunch of boiled exploded plants. because of this I decided to start growing and collecting succulents that are cold hardy so I didnt have to do the succulent shuffle. after the trauma of loosing all my adeniums I stopped coming on the forum. I miss adeniums lots though and im planning a move to southern california partly so i can start growing plants that wont make it through my winters up here in north east california. About 80 percent of my motivation to move has to do with growing these plants year round outside. im hoping to be living down south by mid to end dec 2017. The peat plugs that they were started in, in the aerogarden were planted into pots and the adeniums were starting to establish real nice too. the only plants that survived the tragedy were four of my fockea edulis which started putting out new growth late in the spring 2017.. my fockeas even survived the winter with little protection since i thought they were just pots with soil in them. i thought they had died too. when i do start adenium seeds again it will be hydroponically. until then im growing lots of sempervivums,jovibarbas, aloes, haworthias and gasterias. ive also just started working a little with echeverias, but they still make me nervous that it might get too cold in the winter here for them. I took offsets from a friend who has them in her garden year round, and i akso planted mine into the ground, so they should be good with a light cover even with a short freeze. sorry I dont have them anymore to show pictures!

Bob, the media looks terrific! The plants are going to be so happy in these new pots. Let me tell you! The Growstone GS2 made of recycled glass is what I use too. The size is great, especially to pair with your croutons. So to answer your question about watering. Here is my advice. When you pot up a new set of plants into these, lift them up while they are dry. Get an idea of the weight when they are completely dry. Then watering them you can see each day by picking up the pot how much water is being consumed based on weight. This will give you a baseline for creating a schedule, but watch since plants have different watering requirements. Those pushing out leaves and flowers consume a greater amount of water than those that are semi-dormant. I keep mine in plastic trays to prevent runoff water from dripping onto the heating mats below. I keep my trays elevated about 1.5" above my heating mats. I keep them from touching, as it does lead roots astray. Also, I adjust the tallness of the pot to suit the plant. Don't feel the need to fill them to the rim and keep them tall. Your Arabicums will require a more wider pot and less depth. I don't have any problems handling the fabric pots and disturbing the roots. If anything, the pot flexes to prevent damaging the roots when you are shuffling things around. Keep up the outstanding work! Tracy