Making pots for succulents
LH CO/FL
7 years ago
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Neli Stoyanova
6 years agoLH CO/FL
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Need to know: pea pepple glue for succulent pot arrangements
Comments (17)Hope it works out for you, Nida. Personally, as a slight spin off of Jeff's idea regarding the top dressing pebbles .... Perhaps have one or two "display plants" which have the pebbles in place. Then with the rest of the pots purchased supply a baggy of pebbles for the buyer to sprinkle on top once they get home. That way if a plant should tip, the pebbles won't get lost in the mix. Would the paper cone you mentioned have the potted plant sitting in it or will the cone come from the top of the plant down? Unsure of just how you would be doing this and would be curious to know more. What I have done when shipping plants in pots (not something I do often as it adds weight and can be a pain in the tush) is to tape strips of paper down across the top of the pots to hold the media in place. The strips should overlap and be taped so soil can't escape....See Moremix succulents in a pot?
Comments (4)Here we go again, it seems like every few weeks somebody wants to grow different species together. In a nutshell: It will usually not work long-term, it definitely will not work unless you know your plants extremely well and even then it is not a good idea. Roots become tangled, plants grow at different rates, plants need different amounts of water, food, etc. To overcome these pitfalls: Plant each individual in its own plastic pot, then place all the pots together into a larger container and fill in the spaces with gravel so that it looks natural. This way each plant can get individual attention without over or underwatering the others. It is still a tricky thing to do right, all the plants need to tolerate the same light levels and temperatures. If one outgrows the other the whole planting can easily be adjusted....See MoreSucculents in oversized/tall pots
Comments (21)'You' (used collectively to mean 'all')can imagine multitudes of scenarios in which this or that may or may not work and then say "see - it doesn't work when this, this, and this occurs"; but the fact is, when you look at things from the perspective of what's best for the plant, what I said holds up to even the closest scrutiny. Grower convenience and what is best for the plant are usually mutually exclusive; and if you have a heavy/light watering hand - that is grower error; and while a very open soil like the gritty mix pretty much eliminates the problems created by a heavy-handed waterer, there is nothing that can eliminate the limiting effect of a lack of water, regardless of soil choice. If you know you have a heavy hand on the watering can, and even though logic dictates you should simply fix the propensity, it makes perfect sense to use a soil that doesn't hold perched water - problem solved. As we've seen, there's not much you can do about forgetting to water plants. Is it better to knowingly use a water retentive soil that limits growth and vitality to accommodate questionable watering habits, or fix the watering habits so your plants have the potential to be all they can be within the limits of other cultural factors? Soil choices vary more from grower to grower than they would from plant to plant if plants had a say in things. Virtually ALL plants crown in conventional container culture would prefer a homogeneous mix of soil ingredients that yield a soil that holds ample amounts ow air and water, but no perched water. Perched water kills, even if it provides the grower with the convenience of adding an extra day or ten to the intervals between watering. That is simply a fact. when the grower starts to use a soil that provides extended intervals between waterings compliments of that perched water 'reservoir', he is sacrificing growth/vitality on the altar of convenience. "It works for me" simply indicates someone is satisfied with the status quo - nothing more. It doesn't address the fact that there might well be something or some way that is much better. If the grower(s) I'm talking to are happy with how things are, then I'm happy too. Obviously there is concern for that soggy layer of soil at the bottom of containers that is being addressed in this thread, with ways being discussed to reduce its known limiting effects. Again - easiest and best is to eliminate the possibility it can exist. What if you want to grow a single and formal specimen in a deep container. Should it be mandatory that you under-plant everything to act as a sponge? - or would it be better to simply change how the soil is structured? I should reiterate here that when using water-retentive soils in containers, it's the shallow containers that present the larger challenge because a much higher % of soil remains totally saturated after watering. I'm not sure how the quality of water got into the picture, and I do realize that SF's water is probably the best in the nation because of where it comes from (melt from the SN mountains), but it doesn't matter if there is SF water or water from any other municipality occupying the perched water table. It's the existence of that perched water table and the soil's water retention, not the quality of the water that is at issue. FWIW - it's easy to assume that Echeveria has shallow roots (dictated by genetics) when growing in heavy soils because they need lots of air to remain viable and won't penetrate deeply into soils that lack adequate aeration. All plants that normally have shallow roots when growing in situ do so because air, water, and nutrients are found there in the most favorable ratios. Those same plants, grown in containers in a well-aerated soil will very happily occupy the entire soil mass from top to bottom. I've grown Echeveria (sempervivum, too) in deep pots & their roots colonized the entire soil mass. Roots are opportunistic, and though they don't 'seek' water/air/nutrients, they DO grow wherever those conditions are favorable. Al...See MoreOutdoor succulent combo pot
Comments (31)Ewwmayo do you have any books or website recommendations for someone who wants to continue learning about succulents? I agree, Rina. I've had pretty good luck at my local nurseries, except one of them doesn't label any of the plants beyond "echeveria" which bugs me a bit. I've also been lucky enough to happen on some really nice ones from Altman Plants at Home Depot. But they only look good for a few days after delivery, then they get severely etiolated. I happened upon a new shipment last week and took home the following: echeveria elegans, echeveria subsessili variegata, echeveria chalk rose, a watch chain crassula, a sedum with tiny silvery white rosettes and a beautiful echeveria imbricata, which I've been searching for for months. 6 plants for about $30! I have a problem. I'll post a picture of the imbricata tonight if I can remember. It's potted in its own pot so it can grow and hopefully produce some pups. Until then, I'll leave you with this transformation. Found a succulent labeled as a perle von nurnberg and bought it in November. The pot had a date on it of 2014! I wondered if it had potential. Trimmed some of the pups off to propagate them and ended with this in March.... Needless to say, I quickly realized that it wasn't a PVN. I'm thinking maybe graptoveria debbie?...See Morelisasfbay9b
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