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Nuts in Ice Cream - Pistachio to Hazelnut (blanched)

Lars
7 years ago

I made some pistachio ice cream a week or so ago and used one cup of roasted pistachios - half of which were used to flavor the custard and then removed, and the other half added to the ice cream at the end of freezing. Here's the recipe I used:

Lars'
Pistachio Ice Cream


1
cup unsalted whole roasted pistachios, roughly chopped

2/3
cup sugar

1
1/2 cups milk

1
1/2 cups heavy cream

3
egg yolks plus one egg

1-2
tsp Noce liqueur (or Amaretto)


If
your pistachios are raw, place them on a baking sheet and bake at
350°, shaking the pan occasionally, until the nuts are lightly
golden and toasted, 6 to 9 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. I
buy them roasted at Trader Joe's; otherwise I would bake them in a
toaster oven.

In a mini-food processor or chopper, combine 1/2
cup of the pistachios with the sugar and process until finely chopped
and well blended. Reserve the remaining 1/2 cup pistachios. I use a
Kitchenaid stick blender mini-chopper attachment.

In a
saucepan, add the cream, milk, and the pistachio-sugar mixture and
stir to combine. Place the pan over medium heat and warm the mixture,
stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved and steam begins
to rise from the surface, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and
let the mixture steep for 20 to 30 minutes, or until cool.

In
a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and egg until blended. Add to
the cooled mixture in the pan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring
slowly and continuously with a silicon spoon thermometer, until the
custard reaches 172-174°. Allow to steep off heat for 20-25
minutes. You can set the pan in a bowl of ice to help it cool
faster, but I generally do not.

Pour the custard through a
fine-mesh sieve set over a clean bowl and press the liquid through;
save the pistachios for a later snack – do not discard. Add 4-6
drops green food coloring and 1 drop blue food coloring, if green
color is desired. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours.

Stir
the Noce liqueur into the custard, transfer to an ice cream maker and
freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. At the end of
the freezing stage, add the remaining 1/2 cup chopped pistachios and
continue processing just until they are blended into the ice cream.
Transfer the ice cream to a chilled container, cover and freeze until
firm, at least 2 hours before serving.

----------------------------------

When I gave some to my friend Richard (who was visiting from San Francisco this week), he told me that he tasted an unusual flavor in it, and so I told him about the Noce liqueur, and he said that was the unusual flavor. I told him that Noce liqueur is an Italian walnut liqueur and that I thought it would enhance the pistachio flavor, but to him, it did not, even though he said he liked it. I guess next time I will try omitting it. I did not use vanilla and I did not use salt, even though these ingredients often show up in pistachio ice cream recipes, but I find those ingredients more insidious than the Noce liqueur. I don't want vanilla competing with the pistachio flavor, and I pretty much never put salt in ice cream (or candy), as I find that it gives it an off flavor that I really do not like. Richard agreed that it was good to omit the salt. Richard is Sicilian (born in New York), and so he's had his share of pistachio ice cream. I think next time I may omit the chopped nuts, in order to make a smooth ice cream, and I can always add the liqueur after the ice cream has been made.

How do you make pistachio ice cream?

I also made double chocolate hazelnut ice cream, and this time I decided to blanch the hazelnuts, but I have decided that I will never do this again. It took twice as long to toast the hazelnuts after they were blanched, and they had lost a great deal of flavor during the process. Toasting them helped, but they still had much less hazelnut flavor after blanching, and I think I am fine with removing the skins with a towel after toasting the raw nuts. I only get about 70% of the skins off, but I have not found the small amount of remaining skin to be offensive. I also use no salt when I make this ice cream as well. However, after tasting the custard before it was frozen, I thought it could have used a pinch of salt, but by then it was too late. After it was frozen, I felt that it was better without the pinch of salt. It's not that I don't like salt, but I like it only in small doses and I do not like sweet foods to have any salty flavor. I'm thinking that perhaps the next time I make it I might add a tiny pinch of cayenne, to enhance the chocolate flavor, but I may change my mind before then.

Do you blanch hazelnuts? I was very disappointed with the results.

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