Ours was 3K, included all parts, glass, labor. The shower is a modified square shape a square with a slice off of one of the corners. Of course, that's where the door is. He really struggled with getting it all to line up. Mostly because the standard door wasn't the same size as the opening for it and there is an additional trim piece of glass beside the door. Looks great in the end, fainted at the price. Good to see that others are familiar with these kind of numbers. He did everything, measure, fabricate, deliver, install. They were very tall pieces of 3/8" tempered glass. It was no picnic for him!

Well, I know how you feel there. But you will be tying up access to your closet if another person (not your partner) is using the john or taking a shower. If I read your room use correctly, you have half baths in attic and basement, but no other bathing facilities? Just in this area. IF you split this you could make a secondary toilet/vanity area which could also be entitled to use the shower. But you could still lock off their access to YOUR master bath and closet area. I think that MongoCT drew something like that. And technically, if there is no closet directly associated with the main bedroom, it technically cannot be called a bedroom. I understand what Terriks means about that. Even a small closet can keep it designated as a bedroom, but it would be hard to call it a "master suite." In my DH's house in Mass, I've been dealing with a similar problem, so I know how mind boggling it gets. On the main floor of the house, a cape, we have a full bath with a tub. It serves as a guest powder room. I am adding a master bath adjacent to it, but this bath only has room for a shower. So what I'm doing is making it possible for us to combine the two when we are at home with no guests. And when we have overnight guests upstairs, we can also lock the door from the living room which gives access via a tiny hall to this full bath. OR, conversely, I have a door further down the hall which is really the bedroom back door(another one exists)---it blocks off access to our bedroom from this direction, as well as to the 3/4 master bath. By making all the flooring the same in the full bath, the tiny hall, and the 3/4 master bath, it will I'm thinking look cohesive. I'll have to try to put this drawing up for you. It is much simpler than your plans, because our walkin closet access is separate from the bath areas. I'll have to go back and view your current setup for the plumbing etc, to see if your dream of a big bath can be achieved while keeping the walkin closet dedicated to your bedroom.

but know that all the sparkly pictures I see on Houzz don't show the reality of every day living with these doors. What I hear you saying: I am a realist. I want something practical that will work with the minimal upkeep I'm actually going to give the shower door/curtain. I have glass doors in my hall bath -- it's not something I thought through at the time; I just went with doors because it's what's done today. I neither love nor hate the, but it's always a mistake to skip analysis. I should have CHOSEN rather than just ACCEPTING. Have the glass made with Showerguard so the soap scum, etc rolls off If you go with doors, this is a must-do. If you don't have that "built in", you can use Rain-X or other products, but they do require re-application every couple months. Glass will require you to squeegee after every shower. Speaking only for my own household -- ain't gonna happen. why spend money on an expensive beautiful shower and cover it with a curtain. Part of the question is, do you intend to spend money on an expensive, beautiful shower? If you know you want to go with glass, then splurge on the lovely tile ... but if you know the goal is a shower curtain, you can lower the cost /amount of grout to clean by choosing a large-scale white tile. Glass shower enclosures allow much more light but may obstruct the control handles. I absolutely hate reaching under the shower head to warm up and getting that blast of cold water - ugh! If you block your controls with glass, ensure there is a cut-out for reaching inside! I agree that the blast of cold water is bad ... but you can request that your controls be placed in convenient location whether you go with a curtain or a glass door. 1. Shower isn't curbless but curb is as low and narrow as is functional and permitted by Code ... Grab bars are critical and need to be installed during construction as they must be attached to the studs ... Agree. After reading about so many poorly installed curbless showers (and the cost!), I decided to give up on that ... who knows whether I'll ever need it anyway? Instead, I'm going to build a minimal height curb, which is only 2", and I'll have a grab bar right there in place. I don't think I'd want a minimal curb AND a small shower, but in a larger shower, I think it'll work out just fine. I think it's the "happy medium". Yes to grab bars ... if you're concerned about aging in place, skip towel bars altogether and choose grab bars all around (on solid plywood). The only negative: Price. I say skimp somewhere else ... bathrooms are one of the biggest deals when it comes to aging in place. Pay attention to grab bars in public places. I actually measure /sketch such things in my little book. 3. I installed a bench at the end opposite the entrance. I love my bench - don't anybody tell you different :-). I disagree with this. The bench is what it is ... you can't move it /can't change it. So you install a handheld shower that can be used while sitting ... but later, if you need someone to wash your hair for you, the handheld is in the wrong position; if you have a stool, you can adjust its location, and it's easy for your helper to use the handheld for you. Likewise, if you later need a shower chair, you can move a stool out /bring a shower chair in ... it's much harder to move a built-in bench. Yes, you must clean around a shower stool, but with the handheld showerhead, this isn't a difficult task. With some planning, you can even have an alcove into which you can tuck the stool /shelves above. Don't forget, a third option exists. My mother has a lift-up wooden seat attached to the "back end" of her shower. Attached to the wall, it doesn't require storage space and has no legs to clean around. I don't particularly love it, as I think it lacks the moveability of the stool and the solidness of the bench ... but she adores it. I don't like that the soap, shampoo, conditioner, body puff, etc is for all to see. It looks messy. All the commercial pictures you see of glass showers they have nothing in the shower. What do you take everything out of the shower after your done? I am not into cleaning a shower everyday just after cleaning myself. Yes, the people who take pictures of large glistening showers behind lovely glass doors don't want you to imagine their product filled with a variety of plastic bottles, a couple dead razors, and dripping washcloths. A shower curtain will hide a multitude of sins; however, in all fairness, you can plan your shower so that your necessities are hidden behind a pony wall /the shower can appear to be empty except for your beautiful tile. I have never had a shower curtain clinging to my body, but of course I don't buy cheap plastic shower curtains. Confession time: My college daughter recently moved into a new apartment, and the two of us did buy the cheap plastic shower liner /covered by an equally thin shower curtain -- literally from the Dollar Store. It's awful; as you say, it clings to your legs while you're showering. Of course, her shower is tiny too. Heavier shower curtains are absolutely the way to go ... heavy plastic liners with magnets in the hem. I always feel a curtain makes the room feel smaller by blocking the view. This is a fair criticism, but I've never been in favor of minimal-sized bathrooms. My above-mentioned college daughter's bathroom reminds me of WHY I feel that way.

To Op- sometimes a cheaply made bypass door will lift off the rollers because of the thin glass the manufacturer used. I have seen doors with 1/8” glass. I never recommended anything less than 3/16, but preferred 1/4” or 3/8. For top of the line, I used 1/2”. Be sure you see and feel theses different thicknesses of glass. Physically, the bypass doors stay in the space because of gravity; they hang on the top track. Therefore, any lifting motion will cause them to come off. One solution is a heavier door. You might look at a 3/8” glass frameless bypass unit. The edges of the glass will be polished, the only metal is attached to your walls so you still have the clean look. In addition, this configuration does use any floor space as a swing/ hinge door does. Again, a good glass company with floor displays will be able to offer you options.