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Re-Staining knotty alder front door help

7 years ago

Can anyone help me with the "how to's" of re-staining this type of door? Wife thinks we need to hire someone, but I think I can get it done. My only concern is I most likely will have to take it off it's hinges.

Also, I have read marine spar varnish with UV protection is the best way to go. Any brands out there trusted?

Door faces the East and I am in North Texas. Thanks for any help!

-Phil

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Comments (4)

User
7 years ago
If the door has a finish, stain will not work. The finish will have to be removed.

Question. Is the second picture the look when new and the first the dull look now? If so, simply refinishing will return the new look.

Any degraded old finish will need to be removed. Hand sanding with 220 grit should do that. Not necessary to remove all the old finish, just the loose or degraded areas.

Cabot makes a good spar as does Epifanes.
philipelaya thanked User
philipelaya
Original Author
7 years ago
HandyMac thanks for your response! The first picture is the outside of the door facing the East..that Texas sun can be brutal. The second picture is the inside of the door. That's how the outside looked like before the sun got a hold of it. It's only 2 years old!

I think the front door did get stained. I think he sprayed it using Minwax stain. So my plan of attack is to hand sand it with a 220 grit? Is it plausible to hand sand it while keep it on it's hinges?
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bobismyuncle
7 years ago
Here's' another option http://www.askhlm.com/Articles/ArticleViewPage/tabid/75/ArticleId/26/Paint-On-A-Clear-Finish.aspx Original tester was in Texas.

Try wiping a small area with mineral spirits to simulate what the door will look like with a fresh coat. If you need to add color, you might look at gel stains. They do not need to soak into bare wood like oil- or water-based stains do. But you will want to at least rough up the areas to get a dull base and remove any UV damaged old finish.

And for me, there is not even a question, I'd remove the door to work on it.

And another study that talks briefly about marine varnishes http://www.askhlm.com/Articles/ArticleViewPage/tabid/75/ArticleId/26/Paint-On-A-Clear-Finish.aspx And, by the way, Minwax Helmsman is not in the same class as the real marine varnishes. Poly just has very limited UV resistance. It was the so-called spar urethane used in the first article.
Troy Farwell
7 years ago
Neat door. I'd take it off it's hinges to lay it flat to work on it. Looks heavy enough for two people. The quality of your work will be way better - think about a good sanding job down by your feet - not going to happen.

Helmsman Spar Urethane - my pick. It's got a good UV blocker. Although, I live in Oregon, where sunshine isn't such a big issue (maybe hardly any issue some years). I'd ask someone local.

I'd use a detail sander for most of it, then hand sand with sanding sponges in the details. 220 seems like a good idea.

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