This is an old post but it is worth adding to it for others. There is a new product called a "water based conversion varnish" or sometimes "Water based conversion finish". It is pre-catalyzed so there is no mixing to worry about. It is water borne and low VOC (at least the ones I have seen) but has many of the finish characteristics of a classic Conversion Varnish such as high resistance to chemicals. It still has to be sprayed on but clean up is with water. Here is a link comparing it to other types of finish: https://woodfinishings.wordpress.com/2009/05/03/what-is-the-best-finish-for-my-kitchen/ Here is a link to another type: http://www.annexpaint.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=94 Here is a video showing its chemical resistance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjgkugJhztY

Most pros on the Paint Forum say that alkyds are yesterday's paints, and that 100% acrylic is the way to go, as white paint will yellow. There is a poster here who had her cabinets and trim done with oil-based paint and she is noticing an obvious yellowing on some of them, and she just had them painted less than a year ago. That is something you may want to consider. I am using SW Pro Classic on our cabinets, and it goes on so nice and creamy; it is actually a joy to use.:^) Have you checked out the Paint Forum?

"As far as the paint flaking off from water damage on the beaded molding this is caused by water sittinting in the grove of the beaded molding and getting under the paint.. Because of the bead detail it has a place to sit and not run off to the floor. If it didn't happen anywhere else just ask them to give that area extra attention. it's hard to get paint down into that small grove. If they are aware they can make sure that area is sealed well." Your explanation is probably the best explanation for what happened. I'm not totally sure but yes, it only flaked in that one spot under the sink. We've since sold the house and I have a lot of BTDT experience to carry forward to this new house remodel. For one, beaded + white cabinets and children do not go with each other....lol. For the new kitchen, I plan to use a warm gray shaker style with a slight angle and a medium toned alder island. Because we now live on a fairly large cattle farm, I need things that can withstand a little wear, tear, muck and mire :) "To clarify the Post cat vs Pre cat mention above. They are both catalyzed conversion varnish POST is when the catalyst is added just before use and you have a limited window before the material in not longer usable. With the PRE" it comes with the catalyst added already from the factory which is easier to use but not as durable. Personally I dont use either but that's a different topic." I'm not sure what the guy I used the last time used and I wasn't very learned on the techniques at the time. I do know he called whatever finish he used something akin to "car paint" that is a harder finish than plain paint. However, whatever brand/product he used only came in certain colors (or he could only mix from certain colors). I know my formula was x cups of A color and y cups of B color and z cups of C color. Again, I have no idea what he used exactly or whether his methodology has changed since 6 years ago when I last used him.

What brands of cabinets are you looking at? Or will you have local cabinet shop make them? You want a higher quality finish 2k poly