Gotcha! I know that I’ve read on here before that hairline cracks aren’t always avoidable regardless of skill. Can/do factory finished cabinets get those same cracks?

Green designs is correct . What factories tout as "baked on finish" is actually just the doors put into a room under what is more or less Industral heat lamps to speed the drying process so they can move on to the next batch. I was told by tech reps at coating companies that it's actually better for the finish to let it cure by air drying naturally than force drying with heat. A "UV" finishing line is more of a baked on finish to me where the paint has an additive the cures in minutes when exposed to ultra violet light in a conveyer tunnel. This is far superior to CV but few companies have this because of the cost but is is out there,

As far as hairline cracks where the style and rail meet this is do to seasonal expansion and the fact that you have end grain intersecting with long grain at that joint. The only company I know that warranties their finish against cracking is " Downsview" (six figure kitchens out of Canada). I use the same pratice they do to avoid this problem.

As far as the paint flaking off from water damage on the beaded molding this is caused by water sittinting in the grove of the beaded molding and getting under the paint.. Because of the bead detail it has a place to sit and not run off to the floor. If it didn't happen anywhere else just ask them to give that area extra attention. it's hard to get paint down into that small grove. If they are aware they can make ssure that area is sealed well.

To clarify the Post cat vs Pre cat mention above. They are both catalyzed conversion varnish POST is when the catalyst is added just before use and you have a limited window before the material in not longer usable. With the PRE" it comes with the catalyst added already from the factory which is easier to use but not as durable. Personally I dont use either but that's a different topic.

"As far as the paint flaking off from water damage on the beaded molding this is caused by water sittinting in the grove of the beaded molding and getting under the paint.. Because of the bead detail it has a place to sit and not run off to the floor. If it didn't happen anywhere else just ask them to give that area extra attention. it's hard to get paint down into that small grove. If they are aware they can make sure that area is sealed well."

Your explanation is probably the best explanation for what happened. I'm not totally sure but yes, it only flaked in that one spot under the sink. We've since sold the house and I have a lot of BTDT experience to carry forward to this new house remodel. For one, beaded + white cabinets and children do not go with each other....lol. For the new kitchen, I plan to use a warm gray shaker style with a slight angle and a medium toned alder island. Because we now live on a fairly large cattle farm, I need things that can withstand a little wear, tear, muck and mire :)

"To clarify the Post cat vs Pre cat mention above. They are both catalyzed conversion varnish POST is when the catalyst is added just before use and you have a limited window before the material in not longer usable. With the PRE" it comes with the catalyst added already from the factory which is easier to use but not as durable. Personally I dont use either but that's a different topic."

I'm not sure what the guy I used the last time used and I wasn't very learned on the techniques at the time. I do know he called whatever finish he used something akin to "car paint" that is a harder finish than plain paint. However, whatever brand/product he used only came in certain colors (or he could only mix from certain colors). I know my formula was x cups of A color and y cups of B color and z cups of C color. Again, I have no idea what he used exactly or whether his methodology has changed since 6 years ago when I last used him.

Baked on finish or uv cured are far superior to Conversion Varnish. The hair line cracks that show up after time where to MDF center panel meet the frame of door, is due to the fact that the gap that is required between the panel and frame has been painted or sealed in . This gap is important because it allows for the center panel to float . In other words it can move slightly as the solid frame of door expands and contracts . One of the best coating that can be used for ultimate protection both against chipping and water. Is a water base catalyzed poly finish .

A proven coating used in the flooring industry .