New name but same old me
Elmer J Fudd
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Elmer J Fudd
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
New Photos, New Blooms, Same Old Photographer
Comments (8)naplesgardener, Glad you liked what I did....As for the posts, I used the kind you pour in the hole and add water, called Quickrete here....I propped up the posts by nailing a 2x4 about 8 ft long to the top edge of the post, just enough to catch it, then nailed the bottom of the 2x4 to a wooden stake I hammered in the ground just enough to be stable.....with quickrete you can get your posts pretty level and straight cause its got gravel in it to kinda hold it while you're getting it right.....next day you just hammer away the 2x4s and whah-lah you got yourself a post in the ground straight as an arrow....well straight enough anyways.....:) That's the first and only posts I've ever set in my life and I learned what its all about: 1 part finesse, 1 part manipulation and 1 part getting a buddy over that's done it before and makes sure you don't embarrass yourself before your wife sees it......:) Paul from Alabama...See MoreFrom old home to new - or new to old? What does it feel like?
Comments (30)I love old houses - the quality, the history (I was THRILLED when I saw the names of the owners of our then under 5 year old house on the 1930 census), and the style. If I don't win the lottery, I will never live in another "new" build (80's and up) because the vast majority of non custom built homes are just not up to my standards. Of the 4 new builds I lived in in my life, only two were decent. The last decent one had been built by a guy who had previously done commercial building. It was built to last and I have no doubt that one would still stand after a tornado. Because of the commercial background, the finish "prettyness" wasn't there, but those details were added later, by us. The last new build was a nightmare. The "quality" semi custom build was so lacking that I can't even imagine how much worse some of the mass produced really poor quality houses will last. Within the first 5 years the deck was partially rotting (no flashing between the house and it), the roof leaked at the chimney, many of the windows wouldn't work well and/or leaked at the top, lots of the trim wood was rotting out and the floors of both 1st and 2nd floor creaked in almost every spot as did the entire staircase. And then of course you had the "minor" issues like one couldn't use a hairdryer in the master bath before resetting the outlet in the upstairs bath if someone had used a hairdryer in it before the master bath. And the defective shingles requiring a complete reroof at 3 years is hard to forget. My brother has a friend who last year moved into a house in one of those new mass built neighbourhoods in South Carolina. Brand new. 6 months after moving in, a water pipe junction burst (iirc, they thought it hadn't been correctly connected or something) in the attic while they were on vacation and ruined most of the house and their items. The builder denied responsibility and the insurance company was blaming it on the builder since the house was still under "warranty" and it was turning into a huge mess, to say the least. New does not equal free of work and I'd rather strip wallpaper than deal with finding out what corners were cut....See MoreUh oh! New roof, same old ice dams and leaks
Comments (30)Okay, here's where we now stand. The roofer who oversaw the roofing job (not the roofer of record), seems to feel he is responsible, since I first contracted with him. He feels that the reason the water got under the drip edge where it did is that the gutter had been raised in order to pitch it the "correct" way, and it was not low enough, that the drip edge was going into the gutter instead of sitting above it. He wants to either cover the fascia board with aluminum and run it up under the roof with a bead of caulk, or, place the "flap" of the drip edge against the fascia board and put the gutter up against it so there is no opening for the water to get into. I had the rep from Tamko at the house. He feels that the color problem resulted in the run between colors not being discarded, told me it RARELY happens , and is suggesting that the roofer swap about five sections with other sections from an upper roof, and hand seal them. He insists the integrity of the roof will not be compromised, and that it will look perfect. He also says that Tamko has no liability for color, that their warranty does not cover it, and he spoke to both roofers, partly in my presence, and partly while he "hid" in the driveway. I have to assume Tamko is going to pay for this work, but I was not told anything other than that someone else from Tamko would come to the house to look it over, and make arrangements. He then said that I would be asked to sign a release after the work is done. Interesting, in light of the fact that he is saying Tamko has no responsibility, that they simply want a "happy customer". I am not sure I am happy about them pulling out sections of roofing and replacing it, so I would like some opinions here. I had another roofer come in to give me some ideas on the ice damming and backup situation. He also mentioned aluminum on the fascia, he did not get up on a ladder so he can't comment on the drip edge, but he also mentioned another product which is "sticky", like the shield, which he feels he could put on the edge of the roof behind the gutter. Will this work with everything that is already in place? I feel like I have just spent over $13,000 for a nightmare, and I don't want it compounded, but the only reason we even did the roof was because of the backup of the water after a snow, and this problem has not been remedied....See MoreNew retaining wall & refacing an old one at the same time
Comments (10)It's the case that in order to understand the particulars, it's necessary to understand the overall, which I cannot do from your picture. At first, I thought the wall was extending to the left (as facing the slope) and continuing on below the fence, where you have "planters" marked on the plan. Now I'm thinking it is at the right where you have an elevation differential ...?? In order to understand this better, you need to show the whole back yard from the view point of back of house at center of wall, using a series of slightly overlapping photos that pan from left to right. Now I think I understand why you were speaking about such a large wall for the proposed portion. From my perspective, still without knowing much, this seems like an inefficient plan. Maybe I'll find out I'm wrong, but that's where it seems like it's going as of now. I don't know how true to the plan you intend to be, but there are errors in the way you are designing the patio edge, both in the way the edge intersects with the wall and in the surplus of tight radius curves along one side. It's going to be better to simplify/smooth that line....See MoreElmer J Fudd
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years ago
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