the white spots make me think forsythia.. but at 14 degrees.. i am not walking out to compare to mine.. lol ... a failsafe check.. would be to cut some branch ends.. and put them in a vase.. and they will bloom in a week or so ... if they have had enough chill time ... if they confirm forsythia.. google: rejuvenation pruning of flowering shrubs.. and get to work ... you would remove all the largest branches as close to the ground as you can get ... ... looking at yours.. w/o a scale.. remove everything greater than 3/4 of an inch ... and see what you can make of it and stop pruning it at height ... that is part of your base problem ... and after 2 years of rejuvenation ... either decide you like where you are going with it ,... OR GET RID OF IT ... you really dont have to keep things that bother you .... the ones you forced into bloom ... will root inside a month or so.. so lucky you.. you can have more of them ... lol ... in all reality.. no matter what it is.. you could probably cut it to 3 inches.. ALL OF IT ... and have a nice smaller plant in spring.. though if you do it now.. you will cut off all the flowers.. so no spring show.. and that is why you could cut it to the ground..as soon as it is done blooming ... you will probably be pleased with the result ... or you will get rid of it .... ken

First of all, how do you post pictures here? Second, the link 'effects of glyphosate on tomato' left above by jean001a has a picture of a glyphosphate effected tomato plant and it looks just like mine do. To: dickiefickle, all my garden plants are planted in a garden, in the ground, except for a cucumber and a pepper. One problem I had, which is why I'm having such a bad weed problem, is that when I first decided to plant this garden, my plan was to use the rear-tine tiller owned by my landlord to till all the soil in the garden area, then to till in some bulk combo soil. However, the tiller has both a seized transmission and engine, so its useless. This meant that I had to plant the garden in what was currently a lawn area, with grass and weeds. So I planted the plants just like I would plant a shrub or perennial. I dug holes about 14"-16" in diameter, about 14" deep, then I mixed my soil up and filed these holes, then planted the plants in the holes. Before planting, I didnt spray Roundup on the garden area, because I figured my landlord would want it to be a lawn again in the future, after the garden was picked. But later, she agreed to allow me to spray it, but by that time the garden was 3 weeks old. However, the grass and weeds are still growing, so I first just weed-wacked them, but as the veggies grew larger, I couldnt take the chance of weed wacking the veggies by accident. But there are too many to pull every few days, so i did what I would normally do in an ornamental bed. I first pulled the weeds under the drip line of the veggie plants, then I carefully sprayed Roundup to the other weeds, with the wand very low to the ground, on a non-windy day. Also to dickiefickle: As far as my soil being too moist, the holes I'm growing in are 14-16" deep, and we live on the East coast where we have a drought just about every summer, where it wont rain for weeks at a time. Most watering is done by hand, and I never water too much or too often. Usually every 3 days or so, unless it rains, so the soil is never too wet for very long. However, I planted a Dahlia, a 40" variety called 'Contraste' back on about May 5. It already had a long stem growing out of the tuber, so once I planted it, it immediately was 3" above ground and started growing leaves at once. Then on about May 20, we had an extremely rare 7 day long rain spell, where it rained on and off every day, and was constantly overcast. It actually rained about 3-5 hours per day. One day after the rain ended, the sun came out and some plants were wilting a little initially due to the bright sun for the first time in 8 days, but then most plants perked back up, except for the one Dahlia. It continued to wilt for 8 more days, til I dug down to the tuber, and discovered that it had rotted from the bottom up and was slimy and easily crushed in my hands. ****Anyway, my most important question at this point is: Now that I've pruned the tomatoes back below the yellowing areas on top of main stem and laterals, will those tomatoes grow new stems from the area where pruned like most plants do(2 or more new stems), or will no new growth start where pruned, and only new lateral will grow from between the main stem and leaf branches? How do tomatoes normally react to their stems being pruned?

Not sure about changes in water quality, we are on town water and I have always used it for watering my Peace Lily. No recent house moves either and I just checked - we have both fluoride and chlorine added to the water supply. I switched potting mixes due to the aforementioned problem of yellowing leaves. Basically as a trial in a more open mix to determine whether or not I WAS over watering. I don't think I was, as all the roots were white and healthy (although rootbound). I'm debating whether or not to unpot the plant just to check the roots. But maybe I'll wait on that. I need to do a bit of research to determine whether or not I have her planted too low in the medium and if I have, I'm planning on replanting her in the correct position. I'll finish the watering experiment first though, just to rule that out.

It looks like it was planted too low in the soil. The petioles of the lowest leaves look like they're emerging from the soil, when they should've been above the soil line. On top of that, it also looks like it's not getting watered enough; being in such a coarse, fast-draining mix. These plants love water. They just don't like soggy soils (which you don't have to worry about). The soil mix looks fine, and isn't much different than the mix I use for mine. It just needs to be watered more frequently. The leaf issues aren't from being "overwatered." It's from the petioles being under the soil line. Only the actual stems of the plants should be emerging from the soil. These plants have earned their monster reputations because they are tough plants. They couldn't care less about having their roots disturbed from being repotted. When I repotted mine, its roots were so tangled up that there was no hope of trying to separate them. So I hacked away roughly three-fourths of its roots, and it didn't phase my monstera one bit. It just grew newer ones to replace them. Mine stays outside for most of the year, where it grows like a weed. I brought it into my garage to place its pot in a bucket and let the whole root ball soak in some diluted fertilizer. I did this just yesterday, and my monstera has been soaking for a whole day. I meant to only let it soak overnight, but didn't get around to draining it just yet. Though I will first thing tomorrow. Not only will I drain away the water, but I'll immediately flush the whole pot out again with plenty of fresh water. After all of that, I'll let the excess water drain away. Does this mean that my plant was overwatered? No. Seeing as how it's potted in a coarse, fast-draining mix (just like yours), I never have to worry about "overwatering" my plants. Overwatering plants isn't about how much water you give them, but rather how much water remains in the soil after you've watered your plants. In their natural habitat, these plants grow close to water sources, and get rained on all of the time. So they're no strangers to water. But they're epiphytes, which means that they grow up the sides of trees. Which is why they don't like soggy, water retentive soils. I almost never let my monstera go dry. In the wintertime, I'll cut back on how often I water it, but when I do water it, I always flush out the whole entire pot with more than enough water. If you want proof, then just take a look at my plant. I repotted it back in the springtime, and since then, it has already filled in the whole entire pot with roots. Not to mention the aerial roots that are growing out in every direction. Even on its plant stand, its aerial roots are already laying on the ground, with no signs of stopping whatsoever.^ As you can see, I have it soaking in water with diluted fertilizer added to it right up to the soil line. After I drain the soil, I'll flush it out with plenty of fresh water. If I were to leave this plant soaking any longer than this, then it would most definitely begin to suffer from "overwatering." Once it's sufficiently drained, plenty of fresh air will rush into the soil to let its roots breathe in the oxygen they need to function properly. Another thing you'll notice is that only the actual stems are emerging from the soil. All of the petioles to each of its leaves are well above the soil line. The stems are where the aerial roots are emerging from. The petioles are what hold up and support the leaves. Those are what you are holding in your hand in your last photo. They suffered from being potted under the soil, not from being overwatered. If there are any other petioles still under the soil line, then I would repot the whole plant to raise them up above the surface of the soil. Don't worry about disturbing their roots. These monsters couldn't care less about that. ^ Here is where I keep it in my front yard, which faces north. The morning sunlight is shining on it in this photo, but my roof shades it from direct sunlight throughout the rest of the day. Monstera deliciosas are very thirsty plants. They soak up and require lots of fresh water. I have mine in a self-watering pot, which has a small reservoir at the bottom to hold water. I will soak my monstera in the evening and fill up that reservoir before nightfall. Then the very next day, that reservoir will be empty. But my monstera is outside, and it's summer, so it goes through a lot more water than a monstera that is being grown indoors.