others,...please help with confusion which soil is best

7 years ago

I have three tomato plants...two are heirloom..one is bush..I also have a money tree, bamboo palm, some ivys, and arcea palm.

I have been viewing the posts on soil for hours. I know it's late for tomatoes..but might as well try..since I have them. First question...is I thought 5.1.1 mix was for short term ...and l.1.1 was for continued use. So in order to acquire soil for the tomatoes..I need to make the l.1..1 for the houseplants?

I am aware of the many bagged potting mixes...from reading on this site..Pro mix...expensive. but I did find it locally..Fafard..locally they are out of the 52 they carried..but did say ..they found large pieces of pine bark in it...Ecoscrapes...local....and ofcourse MG...either with or without moisture control ..I have sourced all the ingredients for the 5.1.1 ...I think I read this has to be discarded at the end of the season.. I found 50 # bag of pine bark...with sap wood in it...the pieces aren't too bad..I have taken every piece of sap wood out of all that...and broken up the pieces that were too large of the mix..some with my fingers..others with garden ..sizzors..and took out the very large ones...which there not many. It breaks my hear to have to throw it away at the end of the season, after all that work. but I will if its best for the plants. So, which soil do I use?

I have read ..it depends on how often you want to water...well...tomatoes I assume need to be watered almost daily if not more often..in very hot temps zone 6...so that is decided...The houseplants..well...I assume the chop stick method of when they need water will work.. ..weekly I am thinking. I do have the Foliage pro...I guess I need to purchase the Pro tek (do I really need this) Al suggests it. have to look for it on line.It seems the it's best to stay away from anything with peat moss in it...also vermiculate..which most all the bag potting mixes have..but are compensated by adding bark and perlite...so if your having to purchase perlite ..your adding to the expense of the bagged mix..so in the long run...is it cheaper to get the bagged anyway.?Then using the bagged...would you still use the foliage pro and protek.....The confusing part is when the recipe for the 5.1.1 is there..and in the comment section...Al..or someone suggests...epson salt, milk, granulated furtilizer. etc.( in addition to the FP).but no brands.....to a newbie ....specific amounts are helpful...even if it's some sort of idea...and what brands that would available....I know there are hundreds of brands..but Al seems to think the FP is the best of all. I could blame my apprehension on my age of 82..but really want to invest in what would be the best for my plant investment..also...not scrimp on quality...trying to save a $1 here and there..

I somtimes feel that you all are so experienced, it's second nature at this, that you forget that us newbies...are left in the dark often...when suggestions are not more detailed

I know I am driving myself crazy over this decision.....so really would appreciate your help.

thanks, Bev...

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (2)

Dave
7 years ago
Hi there,

the 5:1:1 mix would be a good choice (including for your house plants).

That will hold up well and will not need to be discarded after only one season. You can keep your indoor plants in that mix for 2-3 years without issue, as long as they don't become too pot bound.

You want your bark to be about 1/8" to 1/4" pieces. Discard as much sapwood as you can. It would be best to also screan out any super fine particles. But if you don't, you can always add a little less peat to balance that out.

For the mix, 5 parts pine bark mulch, 1 part peat (you can substitute regular miracle gro potting mix for this), 1 part coarse perlite and some dolomite lime. I add about a tablespoon per gallon of soil. You don't want to use Epsom salts or milk, etc.
0
blevine2
Original Author
7 years ago
Dave, thank you for help....I probably knew that all a long..but was hesitating...because it seems more expensive than anything else..by the time you purchase everything..including the Foliage pro and pro tek that Al says he uses

..I do have the FP. .You didn't mention it...I assume it should be used at the rate of 1/4 tsp per gallon for each feeding. So when watering..do you water w/out the FP till it comes out the bottom holes...and then pour the FP mixture on it until it comes out the holes? The Pro tek...also should be used at each feeding inside the same gallon as the FP? s

Do you also put holes on the sides of the containers..as well as the bottom?

The mix used in the Tomato Plants can be used the following year?

I did screen out the sapwood...there is absolutely NONE in my huge bag of bark...the nursery put the bark in four different bags so I could lift them..

I brought them in the house..and pulled out the sapwood while watching TV....you wouldn't believe how many hours it took...to accomplish that..and break up the bark into the smaller size pieces.

I will post the company that sells it...it wasn't quite as clean as Repti bark...but no stringy pieces... and not much other than the sapwood had to be discarded....along with a small amount of large pieces ...too thick to be broken up by hand or with the aid of my cats toe nail clippers...And it was $9 a bag..I purchased it at a local nursery. The supplier has a

website which I will post...and you call and ask who might carry it in their region..however..I don't believe they sell it in the Northeast...but they might know some one does.

For the next three days...Petco has 20% off pretty much everything in the store using your Pal number...you can sign up at the counter..and get it....if you don't have one...They have the Repti bark there...I think the large bag was $19 reg price...It was not nearly as large as the bag I bought at the nursery.

Thanks gain. Bev...

.
Related Discussions
Bonsai Soil Confusion
Q
Comments (22)
"Adequate indirect sunlight" - not achievable for two reasons. Indirect implies the need for less than full sunlight, but just being indoors, even at a window, is "indirect" to a plant, and is therefore inadequate, so giving less than the fullest possible and direct sun exposure indoors is not really enough to begin with for most plants except for the odd house plant that adapts, though may not thrive. Trees, unless hardcore 'understory' (always living in the shadow of larger ones directly above them) trees, need full sun all day, though of course there are limits when it comes to native (to a certain environment/climate) and non-native. In other words putting an oak or elm tree in the hot and unrelenting sun of a southern desert 24/7 probably won't produce a happy tree, but in any more northern, temperate and varied climate unless SO far north (zone 3 and under) that temperatures make it uninhabitable for the species, would be fine. You are likely in zone 6, BTW, though you haven't specified it in your ID line (which would help everyone to help you before even reading your notes). While a C.elm (Ulmus parvifolia) might not do well in a Minnesota winter with no protection, in a small pot, certainly it will manage where you live if you give it proper care, i.e. the pot sunk (to the rim) in a large container of mulch from Dec. onward, with an inch or 2 of mulch on top, possibly in an unheated porch or shed, but not necessarily (and snow is a great insulator and allows natural watering during short term thaws - you don't want to water once the soil freezes hard yourself). If you can't give it that kind of protection when temps go below 15-20 F. (e.g. overnights in Jan.) then you could bring it inside for 2-3 days (no more) at a time - it'll remain dormant that long - or at least for the nights, to the coolest part of your house. But the only people who'll tell you it will be happy indoors are probably trying to sell you one (and couldn't care less what happens afterward) or are just ignorant. Short term survival is one thing, after all, thriving is something else.
...See More
Confused about perennial tulips! Types and soil..
Q
Comments (4)
I garden on heavy clay soil (constantly amended with compost and ground, composted bark) and tulips aren't perennial for me. I'm going to try planting them very deep this time and see if it helps (thanks for the reminder, Susan), but I have to acknowledge that they'll probably just be bedding plants for me. They need really sharp drainage. Another problem with growing them as perennials is that they often fall pray to diseases and virus that distorts the leaves and sometimes prevents flowering.
...See More
Potting Soil versus Potting Mix - clarity re confusion
Q
Comments (22)
Thank you. You all have been so helpful. I have gleaned new and useful information. I have 7 bands that are potted in the local nursery's organic potting soil with the ingredients listed above. The next 8 bands will be potted this evening in the Miracle Gro with moisture control. These bands have been received anywhere from 5 - 8 days apart. I am really curious to see what the difference will be between the bands that arrived last week to those arriving this week. The ones planted in organic planting soil will receive a very weak dose of fish emulsion every Sunday. The M.G. plants will receive water. Roseseek, thank you for the information and the images:) Again, Thank you all:) Lynn This post was edited by desertgarden561 on Fri, Jul 19, 13 at 19:26
...See More
Soil requirements confuse me
Q
Comments (8)
I have two types of soil on my property. There are sandy areas and areas with red adobe clay. I only add peat moss, also known as Sphagnum moss, to the sandy soil. I want to improve water retention in the sandy areas. Peat moss added to clay soil can cause too much water retention (poor drainage), which can essentially drown a plant or create root rot. There is big controversy over the use of peat. Some folks claim peat is a non-renewable resource, and that mining peat puts too much carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. I believe the Canadian peat industry is being managed in sustainable fashion. I support the Canadian peat industry. Glynis is correct in saying that clay soil has plenty food enough, because clay is rich in mineral nutrients. There are compost amendments specifically for breaking up clay soil, so that it isn't too hard. Nell's description of various soil types is humorous and spot on. If weeds grow well, so will most of the desired plants. There are plants which prefer lean soil, which do not require fertilization more than once a year. Russian sage is one such plant. Soil is a living ecosystem. Many chemical fertilizers and pesticides kill the ecosystem. Miracle Gro will give some nutrients to a plant, but it does nothing for the ecosystem of soil. Organic gardening means the gardener is working with the ecosystem to enhance it. Fertile soil grows healthy plants, which are less susceptible to disease and insect pests. I have various gardens because I batch plants which have different needs. The plants which prefer lean soil go in some areas. The plants requiring fertile soil go in other beds. I create fertile soil by adding compost, manure, and using organic fertilizers such as seaweed and kelp based products which will enhance the soil. Earth Juice is my favorite all round fertilizer. It contains: bat manure, kelp, potash, feather meal, blood meal, oat bran, and steamed bone meal. You are wondering about the oat bran? Some grains are beneficial to soil building. Lorna
...See More

others,...please help with confusion which soil is best

Comments (2)

Dave

blevine2
Original Author

Related Discussions

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

others,...please help with confusion which soil is best

Comments (2)

Dave

blevine2Original Author

Related Discussions

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

blevine2
Original Author