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Container Gardening

Blueberries/Blackberries in Container Help

7 years ago

Heya,

So
I just started gardening this year (aka 2 months I think)…. So I guess I'm relatively
new at this. I'm at a Zone 6B. I just recently finished planting some
raspberry plants in containers (with help from this forum – will update with
pictures).

Now…
well I'm going into a berry craze. I
want to try blackberries and blueberries… so back for more advice again.

With
the raspberry I just used potting soil in a 13 gallon container – since they
are vigorous growers.

So…
with blackberries – use the largest container I can. But I need to stake/use a trellis?? I can see using a stake – but do you need a
trellis and how would you use it in a container oO. Also… what type of soil should I use?

For
blueberries – use acidic soil. But
blueberries have shallow roots I read oO?
So what size container should I put them in? Should it be a shallow-ish container to help
protect from root rot?

Finally
– for the raspberries I only used a controlled release fertilizer (long acting)
– not sure if that's the right way to do it but I already have some fruit
growing…. Should I use long acting + short acting fertilizer? Can I use miracle grow or an organic
fertilizer? I realize for blue berries I
should probably use an "acid" loving fertilizer ex: for azaleas. How about blueberries/raspberries?

Thanks!!

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Comments (5)

christineindamascus
7 years ago
I bought a large tomato cage for my container blackberries after I lost a few feet of a cane to a mowing mishap. The plant is perfectly happy sprawling but I wasn't happy with it getting in the way of the mower.

I'm not sure how a shallow container would protect your raspberries from root rot. As far as I'm concerned there's no such thing as a container that's too deep. Plants grow in the ground, which is pretty much the deepest container you can find!
mystearica
Original Author
7 years ago
How about this - would blueberries/blackberries survive in containers during the winter - or should I place them in the ground (found a spot I can place them in)... problem is there's crab grass everywhere in our yard....

That being said - what's a good mix for blueberries? I can't find any acid-loving soil. I did buy sphagnum moss for acidify the soil.

Thanks
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With regards to your Navaho plant if I read your question right, you were simply curious about the "branched stick" (probably about 8-12" long) with the one bud on it. As long as it has a viable root system attached to it, you should be fine as the new primocanes will grow for next year's crop from the crown/root system. The "stick" you are referring to is the plant's "floricane" and may even produce a few berries this year from that bud. Remember, blackberry plants for the most part are 2 year cycle plants. The first year it will produce a primocane (i.e., the stick) which will form new buds (i.e., the bud) in the fall which after its winter rest (now) and it gains enough chill hours, will open in the spring and produce new growth with blossoms forming on the ends of that new growth. So, you should be OK if there is a viable root system attached to "the stick". As far as your rabbiteye's go, I would recommend pruning your plants back 25% right after you plant them and remove all buds this coming spring. Pruning the plant back allows the root system to acclimatize to its new environment without having to work so hard right off the bat once its ready to wake up. The reason for removing the blossoms the first year goes along with that same theory. My friend last year decided not to remove the blossoms from his rabbiteyes because he wanted to take the berries to the fresh market and make his money back from purchasing the plants; and he did and then some! However, because of the weight of the berries and the weakness of the plants that first year (i.e., because the new plants were focused on growing the berries rather than the growing the plant itself), most of the plants after harvest were leaning over with their canes and leaves a "stressed" yellowish brown in color rather than strong and upright and a good healthy green. In addition, and this is the most important part since the buds form in the summer and fall for next years crop, the buds were either very small and not very healthy looking or simply non-existent. This year, my friend bought some more blueberry plants and the first thing he did was prune them back approximately 25% and he plans to remove all the blossoms when they appear in a few weeks. I don't want to take anything away from jellyman's or fruitgirl's write-ups, but this has been my experience down here where it gets HOT in the summer. Hope this helps.
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Angie: Congradulations on the nice looking plants. Only possible problem I see is the blueberries with flowers and no fruit. I started out with 12 varieties and found that some high chill types weren't getting enough chilling here. They tended to have lots of fruit but few leaves. This results in very poor fruit quality. Your top blueberry looks very good. More than enough of last yrs leaves and a nice crop of new leaves. That variety really likes your conditions. The lower blueberry needs leaves. Maybe they will come in time to make a good crop. Hope so. The Fruitnut
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All North Jersey is clay. Treat your blueberry as a shrub. A high bush will grow to about 8 ft. and the low bush may get to between 2 and 3 ft. Blueberries need full sun and an acid soil. If you have any azaleas, rhododendron or evergreens, plant them closeby. Blue berries have shallow roots. Prepare the area by digging a hole much larger than needed. The soil should be sandy but an acid loam with plenty of organic matter. Mulch and water during hot an dry weather. Keep your potted blueberry in its pot until early fall(September) and than transplant.
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christineindamascus
7 years ago
My container blackberries have all come back every year after the winter. I'm one zone warmer than you (7a), so I can't promise that would be the same for you.

I don't grow blueberries but a friend's blueberries are growing in Miracle Grow potting mix and they've been doing well for the two years she's had them.
rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Blacberries and raspberries should survive your zone (my do in 5a) without any extreme protection. Bluberries - depends on how hardy they are, some will some may not. What does the tag say? It is safe to have plants in containers to overwinter that are 'rated' 2 zones higher than your zone. But many others would survive - very important thing is to have excellent drainage (that means potting mix + drainage holes in containers).
Ernie
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Al's 5-1-1 mix, which you've no doubt seen reference to in this forum, is ideal for berries of all types. The ingredient list is very simple -- five parts pine bark fines, one part peat, and one part perlite. For raspberries and blackberries, you would also add one tablespoon of lime per gallon to raise the pH, but you should leave out the lime when growing blueberries.

In zone 6B, you more than likely will have no trouble overwintering Northern Highbush, Half High, or any of the more northerly adapted Rabbiteye or Southern Highbush blueberry varieties without protection. Nonetheless, it never hurts to add an insulation layer of mulch, leaves, etc. around the pots as a precaution.

As for blueberry pot size, you can start as small as three to five gallons (depending on the size and age of the bush when you purchase it), but, long term, you'll get better results with a pot in the 10 to 15 gallon range. You can certainly go bigger, especially with a vigorous rabbiteye variety, but that's not essential.

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