Oh great, now you can leave the house the way you found it, and I'm sure feel much more comfortable. One thing I learned quickly with this one, the outside of the cookware needs to be as flawlessly clean as the inside, no cooking or dish soap residues on the bottoms of pans - or the spots transfer right to the stove top, require cleanup. It's not a stove I would have chosen myself but I checked and its a $2000 range - combination convection oven w/downdraft -, so I'm dealing with it ;)

To start with, this is enough off topic that you might not get as wide a range of answers and attention as you would if you posted a new thread with this question. Please understand that I am not telling you to go away; I'm only telling you that a new thread might get your clearer and better informed answers to your specific questions. Okay, that having been said, it seems to me that maybe you need to have oven temperature control and cycling explained so that we can rule out or rule in the possibility that the microprocessors have been toasted by the self-cleaning cycle. First thing is this: oven preheat signals are lies, pure and simple. They only measure the air temperature in the oven but what you need for even and proper baking is to fully preheat the cavity (oven walls, celing, floor, etc.) That takes longer than the "preheat." In most ovens (including those in GE Profile ranges) "fast preheating" is advertising hype and bragging rights, not reality. Here's how an oven works, electric ovens in particular. (I say all of this from having owned and used a GE Profiile DF range for a decade and something. If you already know this, then just take this as putting us all on the same page for discussion.) You turn the oven on and set the temperature dial/touchpad to say, 350F. With an electric oven, and some gas ovens, both the top (broiler) and bottom (baking) elements come on. (And, with some newer convection ovens, the rear "convection" element also may come on.) The air temperature climbs and the walls etc. also start to heat up. When the air temp hits 350F, the sensor says the oven is preheated. Except that it is not. Most of baking is actually done with ehat radiating from the walls fof the oven cavity, not the air termperature. (Mhyrvold's Modernist Cusine website and book explain this in great technical detail if you want the geeky details.) What actually happens is that the bottom and top burners continue running until the actual air temp climbs a lot. In your case, it apparently climbs another 50F. Then (hopefully) it shuts off. Trouble is, if you put your baked goods into the oven when the preheat signal goes off, the top burner is still hot and likely is still operating. At this point, you might as well put your pie, your roast, your whatever under the broiler. The top will burn. OTOH, if you wait a few more minutes after the air temp hits the programmed max and the burners shut off. The air temp starts to fall, Your oven cavity's walls are picking up heat and catching up with the air temp but are not there yet. Another four or five minutes -- maybe ten with some ovens -- and the air temp falls to 325F or even 300F. One or more burners come on again. And, once again, the temp goes above your set point. It might go 50F above or it might go a bit less this time. My vintage 2000 GE Profile DF would go 50F above and then drop 50 below, then go 40 above, then cool to 40 below, then go 30F above and below. As best I could tell, the top element was used only in the initial run up but your newer stove may do this a bit differently. It would cycle maybe 25F above and below using only the bottom and convection heating elements, After about 30 minutes, it would reach a sort of equlibrium and the temperature would average around the set-point. Basically, most ovens take 20 to 30 minutes to actually stabliize at a baking temprerature. Now, if your oven is now running 50F above the set point, but not otherwise failing to work, it is possible that the observed symptom would have been the result of damage caused by the self-cleaning cycle but not probable. My experience is that when something goes wrong from overheating during or as a result of a self-cleaning cycle, the failure is typically catstrophic. Such as, the oven stops working altogether. To me, a more likely and simpler culprit is that the oven calibration has drifted. Is the oven running consistently 50F over the set point after a 20 to 30 preheat? If the oven is consistently too hot (after giving it at least half an hour to properly preheat), then I would look at the use and care guide in the section on adjusting the oven termperature settings. Hope this helps get your started o sorting out the problem. This post was edited by JWVideo on Mon, Feb 10, 14 at 13:12

I was just about ready to purchase a Kenmore Slide-In Electric Range with the Ceramic/Glass Smoothtop feature but read somewhere that someone who, after sliding their unit in between their cabinets, had an issue with the cooktop (which overlaps the countertop) sticking up and creating a gap.(albeit it a very small one). I went back to the store and looked at the model on display and noticed that underneath the glasstop, (about 1/4" in from the edge) there is a metal plate which I presume is a support for the top itself. I'm pretty sure it is the thickness of this plate which has caused the gap between the cooktop and the counter. Does anyone know if this is typical?? To try and remedy the problem, they had adjusted the legs.....but the gap was still evident. Does anyone own one of these or a similar slide-in model with the cooktop overlapping onto the countertop....and did they encounter this issue???? I'm really hesitant to purchase this item now......but I really do like the idea of no gap between the SIDE of the cabinets and the appliance itself. The overlapping top ideally should completely avoid this problem and keep any debris right on the counter and not down in between the appliance and the cabinets....which is a feature I really like.....as well as the clean lines which are aesthetically more pleasing. If anyone has any suggestions for an alternative slide-in.....that would be great too! I don`t want a convection or gas.....just plain old electric. But I do like the slide-in feature and the smoothtop. Thanks for any help you can provide.

davidro1, I think you don't realize you are recommending setups that are known to be not just higher costs going in (literally 3x), but much higher maintenance and failure costs. Induction on a range top is something fools buy. those expensive electronics on an induction over a range are going to be cooked and destroyed much faster especially with 900 to 1,000 degree oven cleaning cycles. In a kitchen with three or four linear feet of counter, you are not going to place a second cooktop, and this is NOT a remodel, as the cabinets and counters are in excellent shape. You are actually recommending a setup that is three times the budget, and and a known higher failure higher repair cost setup. Respectfully some of you have very poor forum etiquette. I did not post the question: "induction, ceramic or gas, what are your thought?" This is a city pied-�-terre that I may well be converting to rental, and there are LOTS of things I am doing to keep in budget and maintain a low likelihood of future high maintenance. I am not going to leave the bathroom in a bad state because I blew the budget on a $2000 induction range that will have half the lifetime and or double the repair costs of $650 glass top range with manual knobs and self cleaning, with the possible addition of convection. Combination appliances are a MISTAKE, in my long long experience. I never understood why someone would buy a TV with a disk player in it since one lasts five years and one lasts 15. I can tell you that an range with an attached microwave is a huge mistake because I am guessing that 90% of the people who bought places with those in them found they had huge problems. Microwaves last half as long. Essentially you have to pitch the entire range/microwave or pay $500 to repair an five or ten year old appliance that should last 20 years.the same is very likely true of induction on a range. I don't need to be sold on induction when I know that NO rational person would put an induction topped range in installation I am dealing with (likely future rental, specific budget). Anyway for those who mentioned samsung or GE: thank you. that seems to be the consensus elsewhere as well. the models you mention with convection come identical without it for about $100 less, so that is helpful.