I would suggest you not use any broadly applied herbicides or pesticides this year. No sense chancing stressing the turf. and at the very least check the label for advisories regarding applying. A half pound/k of NPK every two weeks applied to dry blades and then watered in until mid June will be beneficial for the sod. As far as fertilizing new sod or grass, what follows is the best advice I've ever found: "The Philes Phertilizer Lecture follows: These new KBG lawns are hungry for fertilizer. Very much like, (and if you renovated, exactly like) a sod farm, those guys that start with bare ground, throw some seed around, and by late July of every year, they are selling product: a deeply rooted, dense intertwined dark green carpet of lush (no bare spots) Kentucky Bluegrass. Now how do they do that every year? (And, of course, the implied question "How come you and I can't do it also?") They do it with frequent, rather than heavy, applications of fertilizer. Literally, every two weeks, a light application of fertilizer. At seeding time, they start with an 8-8-8 or a 10-10-10. Upon the grass reaching the 'first mow' stage, they add Milorganite, and then it's Milorganite every two weeks, as the weather gets warmer. Every two weeks would seem to you (and in the old days, to me) as 'excessive'. It's not. Not only is it not excessive, it may well be Required. There's only one difference between the sod farm, with that lush green grass for sale every year, and the typical homeowner here (I'm leaving out the general public: the public is a 2 or a 3, as you know, and you guys and gals are a 6 or a 7. Twice as good. But I'm trying to get y'alls up to a 9, which is where the sod farm is), and that difference is Frequent Applications of Fertilizer. Especially with KBG, more fertilizer than you are used to putting down is good. A typical homeowner would fertilize once in the fall. Not the first year, but every following year, on these newly renovated (or overseeded) KBG lawns, two full applications are required in the fall. Spring? A lot of people don't like to fertilize in the spring. A KBG lawn requires an application of big-first-number fertilizer, in May. A newly renovated KBG lawn requires yet another application in mid June. That lawn needs the nitrogen, for all the growing, both above, below, and across the ground, that it's wanting to do, and will do, if you feed it. Density? It requires nitrogen. Color? Requires more nitrogen. Aggressiveness? You already know what it requires. Even an old KBG lawn, the Merion sods of this world, needed more nitrogen than they received. As proof, drive through the subdivisions of ten or twenty years ago, and look at the lawns: those lawns were not exactly treated like a sod farm, were they? If you want your new lawn to turn out just like that, here's all you have to do: fertilize once in the fall, and once in the spring. That's it. The results are guaranteed. By now, somebody is saying (and should be), "Is it possible to OVER fertilize a lawn?" Yes, it's possible. But not what you'd think. The 'typical' overfertilize stripes that we all seem to fear came from the old drop spreaders, when the rows were overlapped. That overlap caused a doubling of the fertilizer along that narrow, overlapped row, and it was all delivered in one day. What most people forget, while imagining the scorn of neighbors and children, is that those bands of over fertilization did not last until fall, they went away in less than a month. Repeat: the so called over fertilization went away, in less than a month. The homeowner had not created another Love Canal toxic zone, the homeowner had instead managed to put down more than the grass could handle all at once, but in fact the lawn handled it, and probably even needed it. The lawn just didn't need it all at once. Nor in summer's heat. Disaster? No. Bad delivery technique? Yes. It wasn't too much fertilizer, it was too much fertilizer all at once, and there's a difference, isn't there? These days, with the rotary far-flinging spreaders, a more evenly spread application of fertilizer is the norm. Now that we want to emulate the sod farms (and their turf success), we know that there's no sin in putting down a half application, in one direction, and putting down the other half application, in the other direction a week later. Now that we want to emulate the sod farms, we will want to feed the lawn during summer, rather than letting it starve while it battles the hot summer sun. So Milorganite, or other organic fertilizer is required, rather than a big-first number fertilizer. At least once in summer, but if you've renovated, or over seeded, that new KBG needs two applications. It needs the food. So there's my recommendation for the renovators and overseeders: two applications in the fall (not the first year, on the seedlings, they can't use the food yet, as they haven't grown enough yet) at least one application in the spring (two if you renovated or overseeded. That application we skipped last fall goes down the following spring), and you must feed the lawn in the summer: that new KBG needs the food. So here we are, end of August. You know you are going to fertilize in the fall, probably twice, and perhaps didn't do enough during spring or summer. You can do a half application right now, of big first number fertilizer, or a full application of Milorganite. And still do the regular fertilizing when fall gets here. But your lawn likely needs the meal, and if you provide that light meal right now, before fall gets here, I think you'll love the visible results. Good luck with it."

I use compost and Rose Tone. I'm not particularly good about getting it done on any kind of a schedule. I'm really good about buying fertilizers etc. and leaving them on the shelf in the shed. I also used Alfalfa Meal last year as it was supposed to help them sprout more. I will say that some that were scraggly did sprout more this year but I'm not sure if it was the alfalfa or their age.

An average loam soil will have 4000 pounds of nitrogen, 4000 pounds of phosphorous, and 20,000 pounds of potassium per acre in the top eight inches most of it in forms that are unavailable to plants. Many minerals present in the soil are most available to plants if the soil pH is neutral to very slightly acid. Soil in my region is neutral. We do not run fertilizer through the irrigation system. If your irrigation water is alkaline, you will have to adjust it to increase soil fertility. Your county ag agent is your best source for information. We use organic mulches and green manure crops for soil fertility. We do use bone meal at planting time on our large dahlia crop. But, hey, I think we need to use alfalfa like LizaLily because we want 100 blooms per day on our Chilsean's Pride dahlia. In correcting deficiencies of minor elements, it is important to realize that the difference between a therapeutic dose and a toxic dose is pretty small for some of the nutrients. Essentially, what we use here in the Great Lakes Region is probably going to have no bearing on what someone uses in your area. Talk to growers in your area and your ag agent. We have received valuable information from both.

binion, I missed you!! Where the heck have you been? Are you ok? I was begining to think that you got lost in the woods had you taken your use to be sic plant to the place of no return. It is great to see you back! I can't believe that you even got a fruit!!WOW! Do you remmeber last winter I was telling about a tree that lost all it's leaves to " who knows whatever" The ponderosa lemon? Can you believe that even though ALL my trees are doing spetacular, that stupid tree never grew ONE leaf since then. Is this wierd or what. You thought your tree had problems. That thing was out in full sun all summer givin the best of care, and it had about 10 leaves on it, older leaves all summer. No new growth, shoots, nor leaves since last year!! All it keeeps doing is flowering, they fall off, the tree is bare, then flowers and then bare over and over again.....NUTS! binion, I am so glad to hear from you. Hopefully you'll be around more often ok... Take care for noe Mike