Eric, this is a problem that should have been solved in the design phase, not after the fact. Certainly not after your granite has been installed! In fact, it's extremely negligible of the installer to not inform you that the supports had to be in place before the install. That's a BIG safety hazard right now! (NONE of my installers would have installed your granite untill you had your approved support in place!) So, what can you do after the fact. Not a lot. Granite supports have to be designed into the cabinet infrastructure to handle the weight. If you're installing the CounterBalance type or corbels, they go best into a pony wall or a full 3/4" plywood cabinet back. Your's appears to be the standard thin "skin" that won't handle support for anything. There's always building stretcher bars to table legs to create a table style overhang, but with a curve, you're going to find that to be very difficult. I'd recommend using the table legs that you have in mind and a custom iron stretcher that follows the curve of your granite within 3" of the edge. A custom iron worker can make this decorative "wrought iron" type looking. Then mortise that into your table leg for support. I'd also have a center support going back to a couple of iron brackets that resemble corbels and back up to your cabinet backs like corbels would. On the inside of your cabinet, you'll need to install a 3/4" additional vertical back panel (and firmly attach it to all of the cabinet sides with L brackets) to accept the weight transfer. It's going to be dicy, because you're just transferrring that weight to the cabinet floor, rather than all the way down to the kitchen floor. You would have had to install 2x4 blocking under the cabinet floor at the rear to accept the weight transfer safely. But, frankly, the best way to support this is to ask your counter guy to come and remove the granite and let you build a proper support and then reinstall the granite. That would let you install a full 3/4" plywood backing to the exterior of your cabinets and have something solid to attach any corbels or brackets to. As it is, it will always be a bit unsafe because your KD didn't plan for this and oversee it from the beginning.

Thanks, countryatheart. Funny enough, my installation is scheduled for today - time given was 10-2. I called a few granite installers today and no luck until I called Lowes. Spoke to someone and he said, yes they have it in their mill work department. I hightailed it to Lowes and spent the next 20+ minutes(the person I spoke to on the phone was on break) talking to several people - 3 who did not even have a clue. We walked all around that huge store looking at shelving bracket after shelving bracket. I gave the guys this look like... if this is supposed to support bracket, why is it displayed with wood shelves. Plus they were those flimsy looking decorated brackets. Finally, we found Stanley angle brackets. If I had my choice, I would have purchased Centerline brackets - but no time and no one had them locally.. And to think all this work for an item that cost less than $5. It makes we wonder about granite installers. I spoke to several and many said it was not needed even after I explained the width of the counter and the overhang. I went to several home stores and after showing pictures and explaining what was needed, most did not have it or pointed me to a tiny little bag of brackets - you know, the ones used for doors. LOL Counter guys are late so let's hope I got the right stuff. This post was edited by skaun on Thu, May 15, 14 at 12:28

Our raised bar on the peninsula will be 18" wide. About 5" of it will rest on the supporting wall; about 1" will overhang on the counter side; and about 12" will overhang on the other side where bar stools will be placed. It will be granite and therefore pretty heavy - its 7' long. We didn't want corbels to interfere with seating, so our granite fabricator is routing the underside of the granite and installing 1/4" steel plates under the bar (every 18" or so) as supports. The routing allows the steel plates to be flush with the underside of the bar. They will be visible only if one bends over and looks up underneath the bar. They charged nothing extra for doing this.

The cabinet maker just told me that the posts will be constructed using MDF board to create a solid block. I imagine that is probably Ok, since they bear the load vertically, but if he suggests using MDF for the apron stretchers, that would be a definite no, am I right? I will definitely talk to the cabinet maker about adding cross pieces. Also, suppose that instead of 2 x 3 1/8 inch for the stretcher boards, I asked him to use square "beams" of 3 1/8 inch. Would that add more strength and combat warping? I'm not sure I can get a custom made steel frame. That is highly custom work here and would add several thousand euros to the cost. The legs and apron alone is probably going to set me back 3K.