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Fruit & Orchards

When is best time to transplant?

8 years ago

I planted my fruit trees about two months ago. The ones on one side of the yard are doing great and I realize they're getting a lot more direct sun. The ones on the other side are limping along. I want to transplant the weaker ones to the sunnier area - can I do it now or should I wait?

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Comments (4)

jean001a
8 years ago
Where are you?

What kind of fruits?

How much sunlight do the failing trees receive? Should be ok if at least 6 hours.

And were the trees planted from pots or as bareroot?

And what did you do since they were planted? Failing trees are often due to insufficient follow-up care.
McRose
Original Author
8 years ago
I'm in Zone 7A, northern virginia. The apple and pear trees I planted on the sunnier side are doing great. But I have an apricot, cherry, and quince on the less-sunny side that are struggling. I planted in a new house/yard without having been here a full year which was...not smart. So what was sunny last fall is not so sunny now. I'll watch tomorrow to see how much direct sun they're getting (we've had nothing but clouds the past three weeks).

I planted them from bare root 2 months ago. Kicking myself I didn't put them all in the same area.
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Thanks - I know that they are forgiving, and I've transplanted them at different times (spring and fall), but wondered when it was the best time. You answered my question... it seems pretty much any time, as long as there's a good rootball and plenty of water. Thanks - Carrie
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hiiiiiiiiiiii ol buddy ol pal ol fellow obsessor! :D ok, i get it....will do. i'm thinking i'll feel more ambitious in spring, plus i'll want something to do...so i'll wait till then. have you been doing well? i am out of room so trying to figure out what i want to get rid of so i can plant more stuff. LOL by the way, my cherished MC hosta is doing great. it's the only specimen w/ the privilege of being displayed in the front yard. :)
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It depends on what you have. I took several moso, and bissetii divisions a few weeks ago and lost about 1/4 of the moso divisions while the bissetii divisions all held on strong without losing foliage. Some species can be very easy to transplant as long as you keep a big enough root ball on it and a nice long section of rhizome to go along while others are a bit trickier no matter how carefully you take the divisions but if you are not in a rush, I would suggest waiting until spring right before shooting season when the culms/rhizomes are at their highest starch levels.
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parker25mv: but Euro pears, Medlars, Quince (and I think Hawthorne and Shipova and surprisingly Loquats) are all kinda related, right? Like many nurseries graft certain quince-compatible euro pears to quince for its dwarfing capabilities (but maybe not vice-versa): here is that list of compatible E. pears: http://www.ars.usda.gov/SP2UserFiles/Place/20721500/catalogs/pyrcompatible.html Also I did read here medlars can be grafted onto hawthorne, and some other possibilities: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1466534/quince-medlar-shipova-grafting Here is some good info too on medlars/loquats possibly being compatible: http://www.cloudforest.com/cafe/forum/66194.html Also sometimes you can graft an apple interstem like Winter Banana but i forget on what rootstock that works out (think those special apples are allowed onto pear rootstock but not sure about quince/etc).... Anyway, the Medlar and Euro grafts I did pretty much all took. Will let you all know how they do next year on gardenweb.
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rayrose SC 8
8 years ago
There's a high degree of risk in moving them now. I'd play it safe and wait for them to go dormant
campv 8b AZ
8 years ago
Agree with rayrose. I would not move them now wait until winter.

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