Most roses/rootstocks have coarse fleshy roots and then very fine feeder roots which tend to break in transplanting. It is hard to get a solid root ball. Problems in transplanting occur when the few remaining fine roots cannot supply enough water to replace the water lost through leaves, so that the plant wilts or can even die of dehydration. If the plant is dormant or leafless when transplanted, there will be hardly any moisture loss. The coarse roots will generate new feeder roots when the soil temperature is above 40. When the plant senses it is well supplied with moisture, and conditions are warm enough, it will produce new leaves. This new growth (roots and leaves) is fueled by energy (carbs) stored in the canes and fleshy roots. This stored energy is quite limited, so you don't want the new growth coming out on the verge of winter when it will be killed and the plant will be left depleted of energy. Ideally, when transplanting in late fall, you want the plant to remain dormant until March or April. So the things to guard against are (a) dehydration in summer and (b) unwanted growth in late fall or winter. But it's true that skilled gardeners can transplant just about any time the ground isn't frozen.

Perhaps you're not taking enough soil from around the transplant. Take enough so you don't disturb the root area. Some plants are accustomed to the degree of moisture and subsurface moisture flow in the spot they've sprouted in. You might also cover the transplants with a semi opaque cover to keep in moisure. Something like a gallon milk jug with the top open and the bottom cut out. Try also transfering the dirt from the receiving hole to the original spot using the original soil as back fill. Hope this helps with transplant shock.

try using the latin names.. when searching ... for info on conifers ... if just planted a month ago.. just do it ... try for a weather forecast of cool or rainy days ... rather than in a forecasted heat wave ... it would probably be best to wait until fall ... but again ... its only been a month how do you plan to stop them at 20 feet??? ..... ken

I'm in Zone 7A, northern virginia. The apple and pear trees I planted on the sunnier side are doing great. But I have an apricot, cherry, and quince on the less-sunny side that are struggling. I planted in a new house/yard without having been here a full year which was...not smart. So what was sunny last fall is not so sunny now. I'll watch tomorrow to see how much direct sun they're getting (we've had nothing but clouds the past three weeks). I planted them from bare root 2 months ago. Kicking myself I didn't put them all in the same area.