Well, no, that's not true, all my trees are in pots including the persimmons, and 2 of my 3 persimmons fruited the first year after I planted them. Since you only took a picture of the pot and not the branches, it's hard to say, but the tree is probably too small to carry 30 fruit. And the pot in the photo is very small, my trees are in 1/2 wine barrels. So it could be dropping fruit because it is stressed from heat or cold or small pot size, or because it is trying to keep the right amount of fruit for its size, or because you are overwatering it. But don't be too unhappy, your tree is better off because persimmons will over-set fruit. Mine did and it snapped at the base because I hadn't thinned and left too many fruit on it, it got too heavy, and instead of dropping fruit, the tree trunk just split. Carla in Sac

Not to blame raintree there, but the original people marketing these fruits also thought there were only 2 types of oriental persimmons. The non-astringent type they call all of them Fuyu and the astringent types are called hachiyas. Simple to describe, simple to print, simple to sell! So if it is Jiro, Ogosho, Fuyu, Hana Fuyu, Matsumoto Wase, they are sold as Fuyu. No tongue twisting challenging names for the English speakers! We should strive to correct that there are more than 200 types of oriental persimmons alone, and several dozen of selected (or bred) types of American persimmons too. We even have several popular American by Oriental persimmon hybrids, and of course the name of those are more comfortable to the English speakers. I have about 43 DIFFERENT kinds of persimmons grafted together in one tree and sure enough there are significant differences among them, from flower sizes to fruit color, taste, and ripening stages. My fruit harvest starts as early as mid August and it lasts until Christmas. Anyway, here's my computer generated description from my own software: Jiro Other names include Ziro. The tree produces medium sized fruits. Firm ripe fruits can be eaten fresh. Non-astringent type regardless of pollination. A pollination constant non astringent (PCNA) type. Fruit shape is flat, with a squarish cross section. Best time to harvest is when fruits have dark-orange skin color. When ripe, flesh is orange-yellow in color when pollinated. Sugar content of the fruit is medium. It has rounded seeds that are medium to large sized. Cold storage of fruits are not recommended. The female flowers are medium sized. Cultivar originated from Japan. The fruits after cold storage have good taste quality. It flowers are of the intermediate type. It bears female flowers only. Tree ripened fruits have poor to fair taste. An intermediately vigorous tree. Its fruits ripen intermediately in the season. This plant is mainly used for fruit production. Frost resistance is low. Fruit production has high reliability. Fruits are primarily used as dessert. It has medium parthenocarpic fruit sets. It has none or very low grafting compatibility on Diospyrus lotus rootstock. Fuyu Sometimes called Fuyugaki. It produces medium sized fruits. A pollination constant non astringent (PCNA) type. Fruit shape is flat, with a roundish to squarish cross section. Best time to harvest is when fruits have orange-red to red skin color. When ripe, flesh is red-orange in color when pollinated. Sugar content of the fruit is medium. It has sub-triangular seeds that are medium to large sized. It has very good grafting compatibility on Diospyrus lotus rootstock. It flowers are of the intermediate type. Cultivar originated from Japan. Fruit production has high reliability. An intermediately vigorous to a vigorous tree. Tree ripened fruits have poor to fair taste. Cold storage of fruits are recommended. It has low to medium parthenocarpic fruit sets. The fruits after cold storage have good taste quality. Its fruits ripen intermediately to late in the season. Frost resistance is medium. It bears female flowers only. This cultivar is mainly used for fruit production. The female flowers are medium sized. Fruits are primarily used as dessert.

In October, I yanked a Coffeecake persimmon out of the ground after 8 months and no bud break only to find an extensive and beautiful root system. I quickly did some trimming and put it in a pot and put another Coffeecake bareroot I just bought and I had ready in its place. The new one actually broke dormancy and did rather well within a few weeks. I went inside to find out WTF! And a Google search turned up that persimmons need a certain number of HEAT hours to break dormancy. I'm guessing wherever the first persimmon was from did not get sufficient heat hours (but its replacement did) before it just gets too hot here to grow, because the original sprouted leaves and branched out nicely a few weeks after transplant to the pot. Here is a link that might be useful: persimmons and heat units

The best thing you can do is get to know the tree in its environment. The humidity in your area should be a plus. Outside trees can be watered every 5 to 14 days depending on the climate at the time. The whole thing is don't keep the ground around the tree soggy all the time - citrus rootballs need air as well as water. When you water it, soak it and then let it get fairly dry before watering again. When temps are high and evaporation is quick (spring and summer), water more around every 4 to 6 days. If temps are lower and less evaporation occurs - more around the 10 to 14 days. Texas A&M has a great site on outdoor citrus care. Here is a link that might be useful: Outdoor citrus care