Here's a list of red crapes. Some may be redder than others, but all are pretty reddish. If you want to use the list to pick one for your landscape, be sure to confirm the provided info. Cultivar (TM Name)/ Height / Form / Mildew Resistance Arapaho / 20'+ / upright / high Centennial Spirit / 8'-12' / upright / good Cherokee / 8'-10' / globose / good Cheyenne / 8'-12' / rounded / high Christiana / 8'-10' / upright / fair Coral Sport / 8'-10' / upright / fair Gamad I (Cherry Dazzle) / 3'-5' / small dwarf / high Mandi / 6'-12' / dwarf / fair Moned (Chica Red) / 2'-5' / small dwarf / fair Moners (Petite Embers) / 5' / upright dwarf / fair Monimp (Petite Red Imp) / 4'-5' / upright dwarf / fair Okmulgee / 3'-6' / dwarf upright / fair Red Filli / 1.5'-2' / dwarf spreading / fair? Rubra Compacta / 6'-8' / compact / ? Tonto / 6'-12' / compact globose / high Victor / 3'-5' / upright dwarf / good Watermelon Red / 20'-25' / upright / fair Weeping Alamo Fire / 2'-3' / weeping, miniature / fair Wit II (Dynamite) / 20'-25' / upright / good Whit IV (Red Rocket) / 20'+ / upright / high Whit V (Tightwad Red) / 2'-4' / dwarf / high Whit VII (Siren Red) / 10'-12' / upright / high Whit IX (Double Feature) / 6'-8' / compact globose / high

Thanks for the replies!! I didn't think that crape myrtles were grafted, but I'm going to email Ms Halleck and see if she can give me any info. I bought the one on the right and the one in the middle last spring at Home Depot. . .kept them in their pots (outside but watered) all year and was going to plant this spring (ha! can't be accused of rushing into something!). The one one the left came out late April/early May, the one in the middle I thought might be dead but there was green wood when I snapped a twig, so I kept hoping. . and watering. Finally gave up and went back to HD this spring and got another BD (albiet a little smaller). Now, the little "late to the game" guy is making leaves! They are not the dark burgandy/black, but not as green as my other myrtles. . .really a guess as to what will happen. Think I will plant the two dark ones where I initially planned last year and put the other lil guy in a place unto is own. Again, thanks all!!

I've got a similar area to deal with, although thank goodness it is still shaded with healthy live oaks. Tilling might help remove the more shallow rooted things, but for the woody growth and deep rooted stuff you will probably have to use something systemic that will kill the whole plant. And then you will have to wait until the plant dies, so it's not all that quick. Of course if there is nothing in the area that you care to save/protect, then something more radical that would really turn the soil up by going deep (like a disker or bulldozer, etc.) might eliminate most of the deeper stuff. I'm no expert (why not talk to one...a landscaper?), but that seems like the only way. I've got to be especially careful so as not to harm my oaks. I am going to use a poison that I normally use on mesquite trees which is a combination of diesel and Remedy (bought at feed stores). Diesel by itself often does the trick on woody growth. You can mix it and put it in a sprayer or pour some in a container and use a cheap paint brush to 'paint' it onto the woody growth. If you choose the spray method that is not meant to suggest that you just spray a broad area. Either way you do it, you must do each plant individually being careful not get it anywhere else BUT on the plant. And with this method you must paint/spray it all the way around the woody stem, not just on one side of it. Encircling the plant's main trunk this way insures that the penetration is even and completely goes to the plant's core and is eventually absorded by the roots. What I will do is cut each woody growth down to a stub and then paint the stub right away while the 'cut wound' is still open. And needless to say, one must wear appropriate protection (gloves, long sleeves/pants, mask) when working with this toxic stuff. The Crape Myrtles sound lovely but won't provide much shade, if that is one of your criteria. I planted a red oak about 10 years ago (it was just 4ft at the time), and now it's at least 20 feet tall and turns a lovely red in the fall. You might also look into other kinds of oaks or you might consider a gingko tree or two. Once established they are not susceptible to disease, are long lived and turn a beautiful golden yellow. I'm not sure where you live, but if water is not an issue then cypress might be pretty too. You might consider planting some that are evergreen and some that are deciduous. What I enjoy about the live oaks is that they stay green all winter until the early spring, and then quickly shed their leaves just as other decidous plants that have been leafless all winter are sprouting new growth. Some people plant deciduous trees purposely on the northwest side of their homes so that the sun will be able to warm the house in the cold of winter, while providing much needed shade in the warmer months. Good luck with your project, and hope you will share your process so we can all learn with you.

I picked up a Blush Black Diamond from Lowes' sale table. I love the foliage color, but am having a hard time finding a full sun place for it. Does anyone know if it's subject to mildew? Well, I looked up some links and several sources say it is mildew resistant. It looks like it will be a great substitute the the dark leaved plum trees which everybody was planting for awhile, but they didn't live very long. Here is a link that might be useful: Black Diamond Blush ...