I would recommend at least 3/4" pipe for mainline (I use 1") + the valve manifold says it would work with 3/4" or 1". Also recommend getting pipe locally if possible, its easer to get the correct fittings / extra pipe that way, most likely you'll need to do that at least once! :) other than that, looks fine.

Brian, A larger line doesn't give you more pressure, only more volume. Your faucet coming out of your house is probably a 1/2" line operating at 60 PSI which is pretty common. Plastic pressure regulators aren't needed, IMHO, as you can effectively regulate the pressure with the faucet handle. Just another plastic part to degrade and fail in the hot sun. If you're setting up sprayers, go ahead and crack the sprayer adjustment enough so when you blow through it, some air escapes, then hook everything up and crank the faucet half way open and see how they're covering. The only advantage to high pressure is that the line pressurizes completely sooner than later. As an example, on one run I have eight sprayers, and about two dozen 1-10 gal emitters, and I run full pressure on the faucet, which is coming through a 3/4" galvanized nipple from a 1" PVC water line. The only time you run out of pressure is when you have a lot of large sprayers operating at max output, then they'll drop the pressure downstream quite a bit. Don't forget a vacuum breaker.

Thank you Macheske, you are right, a good vendor is what I am looking for, and high quality is important, unless I am so afraid of doing this myself, that I have over complicated things and have this idea that there has to be one that is the best and if I don't use that, nothing will work right. Bluemater, I have been talking to dripworks and they have been very helpful. Where they suggested a rather simple system, Toro designed a pretty detailed plan following my info on exposure for different planting areas, plant water needs, valves for 3 different zones, and the works.etc. Dripworks has one faucet set-up, (I have to use a stand-pipe set-up because my faucet is on a deck and is too low) with 3 way hose split one for each zone. Both are suggesting factory installed emitters, Toro is 1GPH with spacing 18" and dripworks is 1/2 GPH with 12" spacing. Now I am thinking about doing a combination of factory installed in some areas where that spacing will work and in the other areas installing the emitters where needed. I was very impressed with ToroÂs detailed design where dripworks was very hard to read since dark blue tubing lines were drawn over dark black property, house, and deck lines. After magnifying it about 500 xsÂs I could understand the different zones. I am grateful for both companies help and with all the research I have done and after I install the best possible system LOL I am going to help confused folks like me. You know pay it forward. I will check out your vendor as well. Thanks again. Ally

I like the openness & overall flow of your plan. I do agree with you on the kitchen space. Have you thought of doing a large island with a bar area on the family room side vs the small island and then another counter with peninsula? You could move the ovens to the opposite wall giving a framing effect for the rangetop & hood (they will be bracketed by cabinets on either side bracketed by the fridge & the ovens. I think this configuration would simplify the overall traffic flow of the kitchen space and optimize the space. I personally don't care to walk through my laundry room everytime I enter the house. I agree with some of the above comments above about putting your pantry area where you have your laundry room now. I'd then delete the door separating that space from the kitchen. You could then make your current pantry into a laundry room. The powder room is pretty far away if you're outside and need to use the facilities. If you're working or playing outside, you could be tracking dirt, mud or grass through the whole house or through the master to get to a bathroom. I'd probably see about reworking the current laundry space to make it pantry space as mentioned above and combine it with some of the storage space off the work space in the garage to create a new entry & powder room. Love the shower in the master bath, but no tub? That might hurt resale if you ever decide to move. Tub or no tub, I think the master bath could be reworked to be more efficient. Off the top of my head, maybe you could extend the walkin closet at the door down to where the sinks currently end and have 1 big closet vs. 2 smaller ones, then move the sink to the opposite wall in a straight run. I'd shift the toilet down to the end of the sink run. The door to the bath could be moved over toward the sink run a little which would allow a little extra depth in the closet on the opposite wall. If you wanted to, you could move the closet door out of the bathroom and give it a separate entrance on the bedroom wall if you wanted. Here's a visual of these potential changes for you... (Note: Shower remains same size-just relocated, tub can stay or go, pantry remains same size-just relocated, swapped refrigerator to wall bordering laundry and put double ovens where refrigerator was originally.)