SHOP PRODUCTS
Houzz Logo Print
bpgreen

Using native/naturalized grasses for a lawn

bpgreen
8 years ago

Years ago, I had the option of getting untreated/unmetered water or irrigation. I think it was going to cost $1500 to get the water to the property line, then I'd have to pay a plumber to hook it up (done incorrectly, I could get back flow into the culinary system. Then it would cost $85/year for unlimited water use. The people pushing the plan said it would pay for itself in 3 years.

At the time, I was paying about $100/summer for the overages due to watering the lawn, so I would have saved only $15/year (so it would take a bit more than 3 years to pay for itself).


So many people made the switch, that they were losing a lot on the culinary water, so they dropped the point at which they started charging more.


So watering was going to start costing a lot more. I decided that I still didn't want to get the unmetered water, so I started looking into native and naturalized grasses.

Native grasses are grasses that are native to the area (think of the prairie grasses that were here feeding the buffalo, elk, etc). Naturalized grasses are grasses that were imported from someplace else, but that are well adapted to this climate.


At first, I wanted to restrict myself strictly to natives, but eventually decided that I was open to naturalized grasses, as well.


There was some interest at the time in native grasses for lawn, mostly around buffalo grass with a little bit of interest in blue grama. Both of those are warm season grasses, and would likely be dormant from mid October or so until mid May or so. Buffalo grass spreads via stolons (like rhizomes, but above ground). Blue grama is a bunch grass, but can spread slowly via tillering (new plants springing up right next to the parent).


I decided that I wanted my lawn to be green longer than that, so I looked into cool season grasses.


Most of what I found about alternative cool season grass at that time dealt with crested wheatgrass. Crested wheatgrass is an import from Siberia that (if I remember correctly) was brought to the US in the 1930s in an attempt to help stabilize soil after the dust bowl. Crested wheatgrass is primarily a bunch grass, but there are a few newer varieties that are rhizomatous.


I also found out about streambank wheatgrass, a native grass that (despite its name) does well without much water. It's also rhizomatous.


Sheep fescue is a native bunch grass that can spread slowly via tillering. Most grasses that do well in low water environments have extremely deep root systems, but sheep fescue seems to do well with roots that are shallower, but extensive. It does well with very little water, but it tends to suffer more in hot conditions.


Western wheatgrass is also native and rhizomatous, but doesn't seem to be used in lawns very much.


I never planted any buffalo grass, but planted some of each of the others. I also added some Dutch white clover and strawberry clover (similar to DWC, but does better in higher pH soil).


I decided to overseed into my existing lawn, hoping that the natives would overcome the more traditional KBG/TTTF that was there to start. At times, I wish I had killed it all and seeded from the start.


At the time I did this, I was finding and buying seeds from a variety of different sources. Now, there's a mix available that is pretty close to what I used (no western wheatgrass or clover): http://www.utahseed.com/page3.php


I think blue grama makes an attractive grass and is green a little earlier in the spring and a little later in the fall than buffalo grass would be. If you don't mind a slightly tall lawn, you could get by without mowing it at all (it would spread less without mowing). I've seen wild patches of it green in unwatered areas toward the end of summer with no water, so I think it would stay green in a lawn in the intermountain west without any irrigation. It's a lighter green than KBG with a little blue in it. It has fine blades.


Sheep fescue, crested wheatgrass and streambank wheatgrass are all fine bladed and a nice shade of green. They're a bit lighter green than KBG, but still a nice color.


Western wheatgrass has wider blades and is more of a blue green. It's also harder to get to sprout.


I've tried seeding in the fall using my sprinklers and also dormant seeding, and had the best results dormant seeding.


I think I watered twice last year and my lawn was mostly green all summer. My goal is to water 2-3 times a year. I will say that when it's not raining and I'm not watering much, although it stayed mostly green, it didn't grow much, so I didn't water. I also no longer fertilize.

Comments (6)