I'm no chemist, but I've had great success with sulfentrazone in my yard killing nutsedge, kyllinga & crabgrass. It comes in several formulations from a few different manufacturers, but I like to use a pump sprayer so my preferred product ends up being sedge ender. It has a prodiamine dose built in to prevent new sprouts in the same spot too, which is nice. The nutsedge starts to go yellow within 24 hours & when it finally does come back a few months or a year later, it's already deformed & yellowing. That just makes them easier to see & easier to zap again the second time. There is no one & done treatment for nutsedge, it's a process but sulfentrazone based herbicides are my best weapon

Despite what I'm being told I am pretty much giving up hope that all these seed heads are coming from my turfgrass. I've been researching poa annua a little bit more and images I see online look very much like what I have going on in my lawn. Here are a few more pictures of my lawn... Opinions? If it is poa annua (I'm convinced that it is), I can't for the life of me figure out why this is happening. My lawn was started from seed in September 2013. I didn't have any poa annua problems in 2014 (nor any of these seed heads). I mow high and I water infrequently. And the kicker is I see nothing like this in any of my neighbors lawns, none of whom take lawncare seriously...so why would it take hold in my thick, high lawn but not in theirs? Was it mixed into the seed the landscaper used but didn't take hold until now? I overseeded last Sept but I know it wasn't in that seed because I had a few bare spots I fixed and those spots are free of these seed heads. And what do I do about it? Kill everything and restart? Keep spraying Tenacity in hopes I beat it? Or, since it's an annual, will it all die this summer, then use preemergents more aggressively?

It's not that tricky, so I wouldn't worry about it, and it sounds like you're doing a fine job so far all by yourself. http://thegreengreengrassofhome.blogspot.com/ My recent photos actually do show a little drought stress from a month without rain. That's since reversed beautifully and I'll take the next photos shortly to document that (not to mention that the rains have pushed the gardens into incredible growth). I mostly use soybean meal (7-1-2, roughly) to feed the lawn. The flower gardens are half Milorganite, half soybean meal, plus a Miracle Gro chaser at half rate weekly as they're extremely tightly planted and I'm extremely demanding. I've tried CGM, but it's expensive up here--even considering that I'd only need half as much, roughly. Really, for bluegrass, just feed it (organically) around May 1, August 1, September 1, and October 1. Then winterize it with a good synthetic when top growth stops (usually around Thanksgiving for me, but it varies a lot depending on the weather that year). That'll give it a nice storehouse of carbohydrates to survive the winter, and it may not even go brown depending on your exact location and climate (mine stays up about half the time, but I'm in the mountains of Pennsylvania). Water it an inch a week if nature doesn't supply it, all at once. Or, if you'd rather allow it to go dormant, supply 1/4" all at once every 2 weeks if nature isn't doing so. Dormancy periods of 2 months aren't a problem for KBG and you can extend it far longer if you have to with proper care. Mow as high as you can stand to increase competition against weeds. My top deck is 3" (I use a robot so the deck is lower than many lawnmowers), and that's just fine. Mom prefers hers about 3 1/2". Longer grasses are also not quite as thirsty, have longer roots, and do better in drought. Get A Soil Test from Logan or UMass. Most soils are imbalanced in one way or another.

Well, you guys have convinced me. I have some crabgrass that is hit and miss in small spots around the yard but I also have some pretty good sized concentrations. Even the smaller spots with just one or two plants, the plants themselves are mature, large and spread out so that it would be fairly easy to spray just that plant and not get too much else around it. Also, the RoundUp I had for another area where I didn't want anything else growing back for a while was the RoundUp Extended Control. Regular RoundUp says you can replant after 3 days. So, I think I'm going to try and hit the worst of the infestation with RoundUp, then I'll go over the whole yard with a light spray of Tenacity for the Yellow Nutsedge. When the crabgrass starts to knock back and die off, I'll rent a dethatcher and go over the yard with that, then rent an aerator, then a power seeder and reseed and fertilize. Oh, and unless we have an unseasonably cold fall or a really fast-coming winter, we can stay in at least the mid-40s at night and mid-60s to mid-70s all the way until Thanksgiving around here. It's really hit or miss and, my luck, we'll have a really cold fall, but I'm really not too worried about sowing grass in mid to late September. I've looked at some of the information from the local county extension agents and they say that as long as the seed is in the ground by the end of September in our area, the grass should have time to be well rooted before winter hits. Sometimes it will still be good when seeding as late as mid-October but, with the way the weather is around here anything past the end of September and I'd really be pushing my luck. Soooo, that gives me a month to kill the worst of the crabgrass, dethatch, aerate, power seed and fertilize. Oh, I need to find the time to close down and winterize my pool too. It looks like September is going to be a really busy month! I may have to cancel my vacation days before Thanksgiving and take a few Fridays off instead to extend a few weekends and get everything in. Thanks for the advice guys. - Byron