Poa Annua (& Poa Trivialis)
timtsb
9 years ago
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9 years agohoganjr
9 years agoRelated Discussions
how can you tell
Comments (3)Doesn't really matter if they are poa or not. You'll have to read the label on the "R" word stuff to determine if you can use it. The label will tell you in what temperature ranges to apply the herbicide. I imagine it's still too cold in New York right now for it to be effective, but do check the label. If temps coincide with the grass emerging from dormancy and you're worried about killing wanted grass, then you can apply the herbicide to Poa only with a paint brush or sponge brush. Tedious but effective although you'll have an awful lot of Poa by then. Can't tell if you're talking about Poa annua or Poa trivialis, but I guess it's PA. You can tell by comparing the different characteristic parts. If the links in the above post do not show and identify individual parts of the plant (I didn't look), then you can google to find more. Or, you can take samples w/roots to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office and they will identify the plants for you....See Moreas promised--is this poa trivialis/annua??--pics
Comments (20)Lawn care doesn't really need to be complicated. You'll get a lot of really good advice on these boards. You'll get a lot of really bad advice, too. You'll also get advice that falls somewhere in between. I'm probably somewhere in between. I'll try to give you my take on lawncare, most of it gleaned from here. I've never considered it the consensus that lawns shouldn't be fertilized in spring. The consensus I've gathered is that they shouldn't be seeded in the spring or fertilized in the summer. Here's what I do: Mow high (around 3.5-4 inches). It may take some getting used to, but it helps the lawn Mulch mow, unless there is a fungus or other disease issue. Spread Starbucks grounds during the spring and fall. Water deeply and infrequently (I try for an inch a week, all in one day). Apply some source of fast release N after the topgrowth has stopped but while the grass is still green. If your soil is sandy, use a slow release N source, but one that doesn't require microbial activity (something like sulfur coated urea for example). Use a Weed Hound for most weed control and spot spray what that doesn't take care of. If I'm going to seed, it's in the fall Mow progressively shorter until it's as low as I can stand Core aerate to expose more soil Seed Water several times a day until it sprouts Avoid mowing until the new grass is tall enough to mow If I feel I need a spring seeding, I do a modified dormant seeding and seed in the late winter or early spring. That's it. I don't do anything special. I don't do anything complicated. My only wrinkle is that I'm purposely stressing my lawn in order to try to get a nontraditional lawn of native grasses in the hopes that I can go from watering once a week to watering once a month....See MorePlease help me ID this invasive grass (photos included)
Comments (4)Could very well be poa trivialis. It likes shade and damp areas. In the summer, without water or with too much heat, it'll go dormant or die. It is a spreading perennial. Certainty is a selective control BUT NOT for TTTF, unfortunately. There may be others out there though. I know some studies have shown ethofumesate to be more effective at controlling poa triv than poa annua but others have shown no control whatsoever. There is probably no good chemical control for you. In the spring, does this grass develop thick stalks?...See MorePlease help me ID this grass.
Comments (1)no ideas?...See MoreUser
9 years agohoganjr
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