Wow... Thanks so much!

Yeah, I agree with kimmq, you're in pretty good shape. The recommendations to add nitrogen (the 34-0-0) is standard advice. Nitrogen is very mobile in soil... it washes out, and even gases off. So, their recommendation is to only add N, and it sounds like good advice. Also, it is surprising that there is no organic matter measurement, who did the test?

Adding organic matter is almost always good advice.

The high readings are likely due to the composition of whatever you filled the raised bed with initially. Typically, these kinds of soils are quite rich to begin with.

And if you filled the beds recently, you may not need to add anything, even the nitrogen levels may be adequate at this point in time. But to know that for sure, we would need to know when and with what these beds were filled. If you used a lot of highly organic material like compost or composted manures, you should already have sufficient levels of OM. And that would also be a good indication of why the readings are on the high side as well.

The only way to know if there is adequate amounts of organic matter in the soil is with a test for organic matte in the soil. Guessing because some was added just does not do much.

'kimmq is kimmsr

I had it brought in from the co op. I have no clue what's in it but I can tell bark and sand... , I had it delivered about 4 years ago I don't think any organic matter is in it or I haven't added any (new to gardening). I hear coffee grains, how much is good? We have a pot a day do I save it and let it dry out or just go throw on every day, when is it enough? Egg shells same question, anything else?

Etta, aside from the mulch issue from your other thread (to which coffee grounds make a fine addition to be tossed underneath.) If I may, I'd suggest looking into beginning a compost pile. You said you are going to have grass clippings, they are fantastic additions to composting. I do sheet composting, but many others enjoy traditional composting. Time to learn about this aspect of gardening. You will be thankful you did..

Look into it a bit, then form your questions around what you learn. :-)

For now, just know that any bit of organic matter from uncontaminated sources are great additions to soil and compost. What you need to begin learning is how, and when to apply them. Just to get you started... although technically organic matter, animal products - aside from hair, manure, and egg shells - are not usually included as a good gardening resource. Toss those bones and meat scraps in the trash, or maybe find a use outside of the garden. You could dig a deep hole away from the garden every night and bury them lol, but otherwise every dog and cat in the neighborhood will tear your garden or compost pile apart.

. Very true! And ok I'll reAd up on composting pile. Thanks Yall so much!

This link will take you to the best composting tutorial I have seen.

http://sarasota.ifas.ufl.edu/compost-info/

kimmq is kimmsr

Wow thanks!!

Studies have shown that high levels of some nutrients, will limit uptake of others. There's nothing you can do about this and I personally wouldn't worry about it.

What you need to add is something that's nitrogen based with an npk ratio similar to this

10-0-0

5-0-0

30-0-0

It doesn't matter what the first number is. if it's 10, you just triple the dosage. It also won't hurt if it's something like 10-5-5, but try aim for low numbers. Use something that is slow released and not water soluble. Obviously you will get more bang for you buck if you buy something that is more comparable to what they recommend (34-0-0)

If you want to go organic then you need to add manure.

There are other organic sources of N aside from manure. And in a veggie garden you would want to make sure any manure you add is composted or very well aged. Other sources of N would include compost, alfalfa or soybean meal (low), bat guano or feather or blood meal (high).

Not all the N need be applied at once. Since it is volatilized, mineralized and/or used up somewhat rapidly, repeat applications during the growing season can be beneficial regardless of the source.

gardengal48 "any manure you add is composted or very well aged" Seeing as this was a direct rebuttal to what I said, I completely disagree with you but respect your opinion, certain manures should be aged or added with caution, but not all have to. Lot's of growers use fresh manure, or even hot plant with fresh horse manure. I've personally used fresh manure on several instances and have had good results using it. With aged, it's hard to tell what your really getting, and I've had rather poor results in comparison. With fresh, it's a no brainier on how much to add, with aged, it's a lot harder to determine.

Now when I say "fresh" I don't exactly mean use it while it's still hot from the chickens bum. You should obviously let it dry out first so it's easier to work with and wont clump up and contain hot spots in your soil.

Some landscaping companies even sell 4 way mix of topsoil using it, which is the best topsoil I ever purchased, and that was really fresh.

Personally, if I had access to all the manure in the world, I'd age it first, but because I don't have that luxury, I'd rather have it on the fresher side, because using fresh chicken manure has way more benefits, you use less, which means it's less work to add, and is more cost effective because you need less of it.

Fresh manure carries bacteria which are potentially harmful to humans. It is likely less of a risk on something like a tomato where the fruit grows well off the ground, but I (and many others) would not recommend using it on things like leafy greens or root crops that are close to or in the soil. Organic farming standards recommend at least 90 days before harvest after any kind of fresh/unaged/uncomposted manure is added to the garden. 90 days from poop to vegetable harvest. Anything less is best left to pros who have their own barf bags. Problems with that process are what causes the recall of millions of pounds of produce every year. Personally I prefer to compost it or add it to the garden in fall and let it age over winter. For those of you old enough to remember the old margarine commercials, "Don't try to fool Mother Nature!"

Thanks for jumping in there, tox. That was exactly the issue I was referring to. It is recommended that any manure used on edibles be aged at least 6 months before application or fully composted. I would consider 90 days a bare minimum.

FWIW, 90% of e coli outbreaks are attributed to produce harvested from improperly manured fields. And tests have shown that e coli can persist in manures, unfinished/insufficiently "hot" compost and contaminated water for as long as 6 months.

According to Caroline Smith DeWaal, Food Safety Director for the Center for Science
in the Public Interest, a Washington DC-based consumer health group: 'Organic producers certified by the USDA must use composted manure, although there
are no similar requirements for other growers. The use of uncomposted
manure on non-organic farms is not regulated in the US and it can
clearly pose a significant risk.' The USDA's National Organic Standards
Board states that raw animal manure can only be applied to land growing a
non-food crop or if harvesting takes place 90-120 days after
application, depending on the crop. There are detailed requirements for
composting conditions, including the temperatures heaps should reach,
how long the heap should be heated and how often the heap should be
turned and aerated.

You are just risking yours and your family's health if you use fresh manures.

By the time you reach harvest, it's all broken down. Soil and compost can contain harmful bacteria's too but you don't see everyone growing hydroponically because their scared of a little bacteria. Keep in mind, op has chicken manure, and I was talking specifically about that. Certain manures that come from certain animals would be dangerous to use come harvest time, and I don't think anybody in their right mind would be pouring on fresh manure 2 weeks from harvest. BTW even your tooth brush can contain small traces of ecoli. Maybe consider getting a new tooth brush every time you brush your teeth.

A quote, directly from the Royal Horticultural society, and this pertains to using fresh chicken manure, the exact manure I was advising to op btw,

"Fresh manure from commercial poultry operations is rarely available to
home gardeners, as it is unpleasant to transport and use. If you are
able to access a source, then it can be used as a spring top dressing
for crops requiring plenty of nitrogen, such as blackcurrents, vegetables and plum trees"

Keep in mind, I even said for OP to dry it first, op doesn't have to go as far as composting it for years though..

Direct link to the source for all your chicken manure needs.

I'm not going to argue with you - you can do whatever you like in your own garden but the sage and recommended advice is NOT to use fresh animal manures in an edible garden because of pathogens that may be concentrated in that material.

And I do not see anywhere in this discussion that the OP was discussing chicken manure.........however.........this article on the usage of chicken manure in the garden may may shed some additional light on the subject - and even it states to be sure the product is properly aged or composted before use: "The level of nitrogen in poultry manure is so high, however, that the
manure must go through a process before it can be applied to plants. If
fresh poultry manure is applied directly to plants, the nitrogen content
is so high that poultry manure can burn the plants and even kill them.
This means using poultry manure as fertilizer is much more labor
intensive than using a commercial fertilizer or even some other types of
animal manure for fertilizer. The nitrogen content means that poultry manure must go through a composting or aging process before it is applied to plants. This process brings
nitrogen levels to a point that plants can use it without causing the
plants harm. In the composting process, the poultry bedding, including
the manure, is put into a composting bin for six to 12 months."

And here's link to a Cornell University booklet specifically about the subject of foodborne pathogens and illnesses, including how to safely use manure in agriculture...

Food Safety Begins on the Farm: A Grower's Guide... Good Agricultural Practices for fresh Fruits and Vegetables.

Further, this idea that "...By the time you reach harvest, it's all broken down" is also suspect. Harvest for what? Every crop, and every variety has it's own 'days to maturity'. Do you mean my lettuce and kale which I'll begin harvesting in a few days? My arugula which I've already eaten? Or do you mean summer squash which although takes a long time, I'm often working around weeding, searching for bugs, pollinating etc... I'm sorry, but the idea that a gardener can put down fresh manure, and not have to risk touching it until harvest is not practical advice.

As has been said, what a person does in their own garden is completely up to them. However, when offering advice, and making it sound like their is little to no risk from fresh manure is irresponsibly taking risks with other people's safety.

Now, an adult might get sick, but an infant or elderly person can be killed! This is a serious issue. You might think people are giving you a hard time, but it's for good reason.

gardengal48 "I'm not going to argue with you" Well you are, and that's your opinion, further more you continue to do so. Are you above the Royal Horticultural society? Let me quote it again..

"Fresh manure from commercial poultry operations is rarely available to
home gardeners, as it is unpleasant to transport and use. If you are
able to access a source, then it can be used as a spring top dressing
for crops requiring plenty of nitrogen, such as blackcurrents, vegetables and plum trees"

Source from the royal horticultural society.

Do you know what the royal horticultural society is? Because disagreeing with a direct quote taken from them, which backs up what I was saying makes you sound silly. Let's not forget, you wrote "any manure you add is composted or very well aged".. Well, the royal horticultural society says otherwise, and so do I. I completely disagree, some you can use fresh, others you can dry before using. NOT all have to be composted and aged.

Your saying that no manure should be used fresh, and I'm saying some can. I already proved that some can be used fresh, and yet you continue to go on.. Why not drop it already?

Royal horticultural society

Isn't it convenient that Fastlnk left out the very next paragraph from his Royal Horticultural Society quote...

"Fresh and composted poultry litter may contain bacteria that are harmful to humans.
Avoid breathing in the dust of these products, wear gloves when
handling them, and avoid eating and smoking while working with them.
Avoid using poultry litter during confirmed or suspected outbreaks of
bird ‘flu if you are in an affected area."

This is an especially important bit of advice when a person understands that the control of animal waste in the UK is MUCH MORE rigorous than in the U.S. In the U.S., there is ALWAYS risk of disease transmission from poultry manure. All of Europe cracked down on foodborne diseases after the 'Mad Cow' scare of a few decades ago. The U.S. has nowhere near such strict regulations and safety protocols as the EU.

I think there is now enough information for any reasonable reader to understand that using un-composted manure carries risk and should not be recommended without serious cautions.

Not really, that's why I linked the source.. it doesn't nullify the fact that it can still be used, everyone knows that fresh shit can contain harmful bacteria.. That's kindergarten information right there, and they clearly said it can be used onvegetables.

Kimmq has given you pretty good advice. It is best to just keep it simple when you are just starting out and you have already done the most technical part (soil test).

"Why not drop it already?"

Because the information you provided - as truncated as that excerpt might be to suit your needs - is incorrect and misleading. Certainly by gardening standards and safe practices in the United States.

I am well aware of what the RHS is and its applicability to gardening in the UK. But UK practices and regulations are not the same as those in the US and different guidelines apply.

btw, I have no issues disputing the RHS when the information is outdated, incorrect or inapplicable to US gardening practices. FWIW, I am a degreed horticulturist myself and a consultant and garden educator with an extensive educational and experiential background and various professional credentials so if YOU think contradicting the RHS makes me appear silly, it's no skin off my nose. I am perfectly confident in my knowledge base and the accuracy of the info I impart on these forums. I've been doing this a very long time.