Is it possible, Insteng, that my trees were shipped to your address?....LOL. Bradbb, how is your blue berries doing this year. Mine are not doing so good... Three bb died during the winter, and the rest seems having ph issue... leaves are on the red side... not as many flowers as I had last year. But my Asia pear and peach is doing great... set many fruits.. I have to thin most of them out...aching. Murky, I just received my radish seeds too... temperature here was already in mid 80's in past week. Chicago virtually has no spring, jump from winter directly to summer...The radish season has passed, It looks like I have to wait for next year. The worst thing is that I am leaving on July 1 for long vocation so when the plant arrive at end of June, I can plant it in to the ground, and God has to look after it during my absent. If Henry Field continues pushing out the delivery date, the package has to sit at the door step under the sun and rain for a month...

"i wanted to try to grow larger leaves on my epipremnum aureum." In nature, the plants remain juvenile while sprawling on the ground until they begin climbing up a tree and then the successive increases in leaf size are large. When mature, the leaves are up to 39 in long and 18 in wide with slits similar to the slits of monstera deliciosa but fewer. I have tried to find scientific papers about the mechanism of transformation but could find none. If there is a hormonal signal between the climbing process and the terminal bud, it should be possible to cause maturation without climbing by exogenous application of some chemical plant growth regulator (PGR) while the vine is relatively short. People have been able to slightly increase leaf size with the (PGR) uniconazole: http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/27/3/222.full.pdf

I planted muscadines in 2012 in N. VA as well. Here is my observation. Black Beauty - The best out of all. Vigor is good. Taste is best of them all. Skin is crunchy is yummy. It looks like it will ripe around 9/24/16. Sweet Jenny - Most vigorous vine. Taste very good. The biggest one of them all (very consistent in size.) Starting to ripe now 9/17/16. took a long time to start producing though. Last year there wasn't much. This year there are a lot. Triumph - Best self fertile I have. Vigor is good. Taste very good. Starting ripen last week 9/10/16 and is peaking this week. Early Fry - poor Vigor. Produce too many fruits. Taste very sweet. Maybe there are too many fruits but I feel like all there is are sugar is juice. Kinda remind me of Longan. Start to ripen 9/15/16. Nesbitt - Vigor is good. Taste is very good. Skin is thick (not good to eat). Ripen 9/24/16. Pam - Very vigorous. Taste is good. Looks like it will start to ripe 10/1/16. Last year didn't ripen in time. Sugar was low. This year seems to be a bit earlier. It's actually very good this year. Late Fry - Vigor is good. Taste very good. Skin is very thick but very crunchy and yummy. Most are still hard like rocks. Last year didn't ripen in time. Ison - Vigor is good. Still trying to figure out when to pick them for quality. Very productive and beautiful vine though. The list is from my most favorite to least. Hope it helps. The big one is Sweet Jenny the small ones are Early Fry.

Renee - I LOVE Bridalwreath spirea and have three of them. I generally like things that have big, abundant displays of flowers - like the wisteria... Thyme - Yes, the wisteria was trained as a tree and I'm currently training a young Japanese wisteria to be a tree. The Chinese one has a trunk that splits in two just above the graft union so there are two poles that supported it when it was young. The Japanese one just has one pole. During the growing season, pruning is sometimes a daily task! And you have to be vigilant about root suckers - they need to be removed as soon as they appear. Also all seed pods are removed in late fall after the leaves drop and you can see the seedpods. I did a germination test one year and about 25% of the seeds germinated, so I remove the pods to prevent seedlings appearing. There are very detailed 'rules' for pruning wisteria - but I ignore them! What works for me is that everytime it puts out long whippy new growth, I cut it back to where I want the tree to grow - usually cut it back to 6-12" from the point of origin. One thing I have learned is that when I do that, about 10-14 days later, it produces a flower at that location! So the Chinese wisteria blooms all summer! Not profusely but it's nice to have it in bloom. It took about 5 years for it to produce its first big spring display but it did the summer bloom after pruning from the second year in the ground, so I knew it would eventually do a big bloom - May frosts sometimes prevents a spring bloom. We have long arm pruners to make it easy to prune the top of the tree. We'll likely keep it to the size it is now. This picture shows both wisteria trees. The Japanese one is what is on the pole at the near end of the bed. This is a pichure from a couple of years ago that shows the summer bloom - this is July 18 2007: