Thanks, I can probably use the chord off the old range if needed. My main concern would be somehow damaging the stove because their German engineering required a separate ground but that shouldn't be possible since the ground should be isolated from the rest of the high voltage electronics in the unit. I sent an email to miele but im pretty sure I will get back boilerplate "don't modify the unit or you will die" language. I can only find meile dryer chords, no range chords.

Again, I've had a number of Miele appliances and I've found that the guys in the US service office in NJ to be pretty helpful. They even sent me some trivial parts that I needed no charge.

I don't know which particular model you have, but some of the ones I looked at online show a 3 wire connection as on option.

So Miele has confirmed that any change to their perfect machine will void the warranty. The model is HF 1924 DF. At this point I think I will make a short adapter chord and connect the ground to neutral at the female end of the chord. I'll only use it temporarily before modifying the range itself. Before anyone freaks out, this will only introduce one more failure point which I'm not too concerned about. Once I have used it for a couple of weeks I'll put a new chord on the range and jump the grounding terminal to the neutral terminal.

It's kind of strange to me that they would not produce a product for the US market that can't be installed in older homes.

So ended up making an adapter and its working fine. The ground is jumped to the neutral terminal inside of the adapter. When the warranty is out on the stove I'll jump it in the stove itself and replace the chord. Its not worth the cost or effort to put in a new electrical run at this point.

Bob, curious whether you're still running with the neutral and ground bridged, and if so, whether everything's working OK. I've got the same problem - 4-prong Miele cord, 3-prong outlet - and am looking for workarounds.

I had no problems with my short homemade extension cord. We sold that house about 3 years ago and took the stove with us. An electrician put the outlet in the new house and I didnt get details on if it was a 3 or 4 wire run back to the panel. The wire run was already there but it had been converted to 120v for a gas stove.

Just jump the ground to neutral inside the outlet or a homemade extension cord and youll be fine.

Thank you BarnacleBob coming here FOUR YEARS LATE and with dangerous, illegal suggestions. Hack extension cords with neutral and ground connected are not the solution.

The solution is to either put a proper ground in or IF THE UNIT SUPPORTS IT switch to a 3 wire cord.

@Ron Natalie, I'm trying to understand what you're so upset and shouting about.

First of all, @barnaclebob didn't reply "four years late": I posted my question yesterday asking for his experience since his original post, and he answered it promptly the same day.

Secondly, I don't understand why it's OK to bond ground to neutral at the chassis (for a 3-wire installation), but somehow more dangerous to do it 1 foot further away (at the outlet) for a 4-wire cord. Yes, of course it's better to separate ground and neutral, but code allows bridging them for existing 3-wire installations. In my case running a new 4-wire cable would be very difficult, so I'm considering this low-risk workaround, at least for the short term.

If there's a real and imminent danger to doing this then it'd be great if you could let me know what it is - I certainly don't want to burn the house down - but please keep the sarcasm in your pocket.

Dave, your logic was the same as mine. Its a pretty small set of failure cases that having 4 wires back to the panel protects against.

It looks like they sell cords like this now:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089DPY3YS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SqYcGb3CPXDHE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That might let you stay fully legal with a fully separate ground path.

Thanks @barnaclebob - that adapter should work fine, esp. since there's a grounded 110V socket near the stove. Only problem is that the stove takes 50 Amps, and the adapters all seem to be 30 Amp. Will keep looking for a 50-amp one.

Long-term I plan to run a separate ground wire from the 4-prong adapter to the grounding rod, which should make it fully legal.

-Dave

Happy ending, and one that I think will clear even @Ron Natalie's high bar: I was able to run a #10 ground wire from the outlet to a grounding cable that I discovered just on the other side of the wall. I'm now fully compliant, both with the electrical code and with Miele's warranty conditions. Thanks for the advice, @barnaclebob& Ron!