How do you dispose your Rose branches?
Oakley
7 years ago
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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoboncrow66
7 years agoRelated Discussions
How do you treat your KO roses in the spring?
Comments (13)Thanks for answering LouisianaGal. Around here we go by the old adage to prune Roses when the Forsythia bloom. I have done that for years and I think it has worked well for me but thanks for the reminder to not get in too much of a hurry. Thanks for the tips! MaryLu, right now I can't tell if there was die back or not. The bushes are still retaining last years dead leaves. I'm sure it will be apparent if and when they start to leaf out anew. I've been using Osmocote for Roses. I've only got these three roses and one other that I thought was dead last year. In Augutst it shot up a new stock and bloomed one large beautiful bloom. It pays to procrastinate. Ha! I'll look for the Mill's Magic Mix the next time I go to the city. I'm sure I won't find it around here. Thanks for the tips! MeMo...See MoreHow do you kick-start your passion for roses after the winter?
Comments (43)Jackie that's crazy that you had 8 straight days of rain! We both live in the Bay Area... but in my neck of the woods we only got about 2 good rainy days. Now there's no rain scheduled for at least the next 2 weeks. Sigh. Kelly I swear by mulch mulch mulch and more mulch for both winter and summer in my climate. But be careful with your sources. I'm not sure, but I think the grub problem I recently have been dealing with may be in part from the "free" mulch I got from tree trimmers in the area. Sometimes they trim healthy trees, but often they are cutting down unhealthy trees infested with things like beetles. You could probabaly feel safe using free mulch if you also used a systemic soil killer for grubs underneath (poisonous and not so great for invertebrates though) or predator nematodes (I bought mine through Natures Control and think they would have worked better if I applied them BEFORE the grubs hatched and took over). In the end, it may be cheaper to buy mulch instead of using free mulch and treating it. Just my opinion from my recent grub infestation though. I used free mulch before this year and never had any problems until now... so who knows!...See MoreHow do you water your roses?
Comments (18)Take a look at the DIY auto drip system that Walmart sells. They show a schematic that explains how they are set up. All you would have to do is replace the short tubing with longer tubing. Of course you would want the water source (which could be a 5 gallon pail) and the control/pump unit up high so gravity helps get the water to your plants should they be far away. You could also add a water valve, such as used in the older type commodes, to the 5 gal pail. As the pump empties the pail the valve would cause the pail to refill. It would require you to connect to your home water system. The beauty of the DIY system is that it’s not connected directly to your home water system. Thus you get no back flow into the pipes should something break. State codes may require back-flow preventers. This system doesn’t require any of that. I suggest you do not use the tubing that comes with the system if (and only if) the plastic ’Tee’ unit that are sold in the other drip systems will attach to this systems tubing. Why not , you ask. Because you can buy 250 rolls of 1/4” tubing that can withstand Winter weather. Just lay the tubing on top of the surface — right across the lawn if it’s between the control unit and your roses. Us some wire pins (Wire cloth hangers cut in 6” lengths then bent to form a ‘V’) to hold it down about every 18 inches or less. They sell wire pins so if you can’t cut up hangers pick up a few of those. Once you reach the flower beds use mulch to hold the tubing down. The lawn mower can go right over the tubing if you keep the separation distance to 18” or less. Within a few weeks you won’t even see it. Make sure you lay it in straight lines so you know where it is should something go wrong. On to the next one: Here is system that I posted a few years back. I suggested running 1/4” hose to 4x4 posts at various location in your rose garden. Instead of posts you could just put the tees in as you lay the tubing on the ground throughout the garden. Or you could run 1/2” hose to the gardens then use the 1/4” to run to each plant. Given all of that the main thing is what is required to makeup a control unit. I’ve added a few things to the old post to show how you would modify it to run either size of hose. A simple watering system with or without drip units. The diagram shows how to water 8 plants with equal water going to each plant. To accommodate more plants just install more posts around the garden and run 1/4” hoses to them. To keep the water equal install Tees in the Feed hose or another tap in the 1/2 inch poly hose. The timer is optional but will allow you to do something else while the plants are being watered. To determine how long to leave the water on just put a container at the end of a 1/4” hose and time how long it takes to fill the container. Or add drippers at the end of each hose, which would allow you to not worry about equal amounts to each plant. Whatever system you would chose you will need the following (except for the posts): What you will need: 1) A Pressure treated 4x4 post 2 1/2 feet long. 2) Timer (Not needed if you want to turn the water bib on/off to water the plants.) 3) Back flow preventer (See note on diagram) You may want to install a pressure valve after the back flow unit. 4) Connector to attach 12 inches or so of 1/2 inch poly hose to the Back Flow preventer 5) 12 inches or so of 1/2 inch poly hose 6) A unit to close off the end of the poly hose. One such unit looks like a figure 8. You slip it onto the hose, bend the hose back onto itself inserting the end into the open hole of the 8. 7) A 1/4 inch connecter that you insert into the 1/2” hose (they sell a punch for making the hole in the 1/2” tube.) 8) 1/4 inch Tees 9) 1/4 inch hose (sold in 100 and 250 foot rolls) 10) Staples to hold the Tees onto the post 11) Tie Wraps or a small board to hold the hoses in place. 12) Small nails for holding the small board in place 13) Last but not lease would be a nice cap for the post as over time the top of the post will deteriorate If you want to run 1/2” hose to the gardens then you will need connectors; elbows, tees, straight thru, etc. To assemble the units it is best if you wrap Teflon tape around the male threads which will stop leaks. Here are the cost and part numbers of the above components: The prices can vary from vendor to vendor so check around for the best price. I stuck with Rain Bird for most parts but you can use any vendor that sells the part. They may vary in looks but will do the job. Timer: Rain Bird 1ZEHTMR You can get multi zoned units if you need them. $35.00 Brass Shut Off Valve: Twinkle Star TWIS3001 set of 2 $10.00 Back-flow Preventer: Rain Bird HT075BFFS $9.00 Pressure Regulator and Filter: Rain Bird FCKIT-1PK Kit has both regulator, filter, and connector for 1/2” tubing. $16.00 Pressure Regulator: Rain Bird HT0752PSI 25PSI $6.00 Filter: Mister Landscaper MLFF-41. $13.50 1/2” hose/tubing: Rain Bird T63-100S 100’ roll, black. $11.00 1/4” hose/tubing: Rain Bird T22-100S 100’ roll, black. $7.50 1/2” tube end closure: Rain Bird EC50/2KS 2-pack. $2.00 1/4” Hole Punch Tool for punching hole in 1/2” tubing: Rain Bird HPUN1-15 each $6.00 1/4” barbed coupling to 1/2” tube: Rain Bird BC25-30PS 30-pack $7.00 1/4” barbed Tees: Raindrip 307050B 50-pack $8.50 (note: Raindrip not Rain Bird) 1/4” barbed Elbows: Raindrip 314025B 25-pack $6.00 LAST BUT NOT LEASE 1/4” Goof Plugs: Rain Bird TP25-30PK 30-pack $6.50 Plug up goof holes or end of 1/4” hose No question is dumb so fire away...... have fun...See MoreHow often do you water your roses? Bay Area
Comments (1)San Jose, 2-3 per year, probably 10-15 gallons per watering, drip overnight. I feed after pruning, then again ~July, I water after the July feeding, I feed again ~September and water after the Sep feeding. If it doesn’t start raining by the holidays, I will water late in the year....See Moremcnastarana
7 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
7 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
7 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
7 years agoonewheeler
7 years agoBethC in 8a Forney, TX
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agopete_powell Columbus, O-H!
7 years agoAquaEyes 7a NJ
7 years agoRebecca (zone 4)
7 years agozack_lau z6 CT ARS Consulting Rosarian
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agojim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.
7 years agoOakley
7 years agofig_insanity Z7a E TN
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoKen (N.E.GA.mts) 7a/b
7 years agoAdrianne
7 years agooldrosarian
7 years agofig_insanity Z7a E TN
7 years agoseil zone 6b MI
7 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
7 years agofig_insanity Z7a E TN
7 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
7 years agoOakley
7 years agoRebecca (zone 4)
7 years agoozmelodye
7 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
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7 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
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7 years ago
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