Doan's nursery in Belt line road in Irving has many cocktail fruit trees. I would suggest to check this nursery for fruit trees, flowering plants and tropical plants. Be prepared to wait to get help and also make sure that you are getting the right plants because many of the plants don't have labels/pricing. I also noticed that many fruit trees are from California growers, so not sure how they would grow in DFW. Moreover, they do not give any kind of warranty to the trees.

I cannot begin to express my appreciation. That so many people would take the time to try and help and stranger and his budding passion for growing fruit bodes well for you all and for this site...its thrilling to have such a resource since I'm so inexperienced. I also agree with what many of you politely tried to say...I need to educate myself on growing fruit beyond just asking questions in a forum...and I will. But right now I've got several (expensive) fruit trees in trouble! SOunds like their is no magic bullit for all my trees, but perhaps the "One and Done" would be a good start. For the record, Imidaclorpid is what i put on the roots and it did say for fruit trees, though I do appreciate the warnings. Oh....Im in northern middle TN...zone 7 but not far from zone 6 on the 2012 map. Any other spedcific recommendations for my peach problem would be appreciation until I have time to do more extensive research.....again, my peaches are golf ball size but are dropping off in large numbers and when I cut them open there is alwasy a little larvea looking "worm" that looks like a maggot. Anything I can do for that? Again, thanks for all your help! You have no idea how fired up I am about my little mini-orchard! ha. It was one of the reasons I wanted to buy a place in the country with some land. Eventually I hope to fill about a full acre of my new place with fruit, but obviously I need to learn a lot before that. My current (approx) 25 assorted trees aren't doing to well yet, so I need to get them under control first. Again, thanks for all your help!

Dear Dr., I would suggest a strategy wait and see. How recent are the transplants into the ground? Is the soil amended with small wood chips/perlite to help with drainage? Are the plantings in a low area? Yellow leaves to me point to slowly draining soil or too much rain/watering. This past May I put a number of fruit trees in the ground, and had immediate concerns as well. I actually contacted my local county agricultural extension (usually connected to a university with a agricultural based program). In my state its Penn State. I would just google your county name and "agricultural extension". They have the info and wherewithal to diagnose your disease. They can even have a sample tested if need be. Usually, when I call, since I am not a commercial gardener, I speak to a master gardener. I have found them to be very helpful. To fill you in with what happened. I thought I had a fuji apple and 2 pears with fire blight. I emailed pictures to the master gardener and asked. He immediately replied and said that it did not look like fire blight. He also informed me that most trees go through an adjustment phase where the newly transplanted roots cannot keep up with the demands of the quickly growing tree. Consequently, there is leaf loss and the tree is more susceptible to disease. I'm telling you I kept my receipts close, because I really thought this tree was going to die. 100% of the leaves were affected. I was thinking to myself, how is this tree going to photosynthesize with no leaves? My only solace was that the tree trunk was a nice green color (like the variety standard) I waited a month or so, and since the damage to my leaves did not look insect related, I sprayed with Serenade, an organic multi purpose fungicide (from Fedco organic mail order). Now since it has been quite rainy and damp in PA this year, it seems to wash off in the rain soon after I apply it. However, whether it has been me suppressing the infection with Serenade, or the trees have overcome the transplant shock, the leaf tips on the branches are budding out again with good, healthy leaves. I believe all of the original leaves are going to die, but not before bring replaced with new ones. My suggestion: take some pics and call the master gardener. They have seen most diseases and can step you through a treatment. Read up on the various diseases of your trees during the winter and order products mail order (since some of the products will not be available locally-I have gotten many an odd looking for organic products at the local Lowes). If you are going fungicidal route, I think most are broad spectrum- suppress or kill a variety of types. I really like Fedco to order supplies from, they are organic (for me a plus), they are an honest company, they ship quick. They also carry broad spectrum products Spinosad/ Monterey Garden spray for insects and Serenade, fungal supressant/fungicide Read up: I know fire blight is the kiss of death in Pennsylvania for apple and pear right when the first buds emerge in spring- transmitted by pollinators, so I am trying to devise a plan to cover them (?) in the spring. Not 100% sure of what to do, but thinking about it now so I won't be caught by surprise in the spring. I see you have a honeycrisp, you may be facing the same issue. Here is a link that might be useful: VA agricultural extension links on the right

Thanks you very much for your responses and interest in helping me solve this mystery. The Ornamental Pear doesn't bear fruit that I can see. I see the cherries on the Ornamental Cherry tree because they're Robin favorites for eating. We've thought and thought about what's changed in the last few years. The only thing that's changed in that spot is my father had to have a new septic tank installed on the far side from 2 trees right next to the Pear tree 3-4 years ago. They weren't sure they could save the tree but were able to cut a minimal amount of roots/limbs off one side to dig and install the new tank. The tree didn't show any set back the next year or since. They were especially careful about saving the tree. I'm assuming the tree roots have grown into the septic area. I also assume something in what roots now take up from soil around is different in nutrient content. I'm ignorant about biology of how that would effect color of blooms but must assume both digging and septic installation changed soil structure and soil composition/texture around the tree. That septic installation could be the obvious answer to changes in the tree even as far as blossom color. Can't think of another environmental change that's occurred. You ask when trees were fed. I'm assuming my father fed them when they were planted in 1979 and maybe a few years after that. I don't think they've been "fed" in many a year. Tops of these trees exceed height of second floor roofline and their combined expanse is 2/3 entire length of main part of 2 story colonial. I don't have a camera and if I did I wouldn't know how to post them. Now that the rain has removed most of the blossoms guess I'll have to wait for next year to see if color change returns. Wouldn't want to do anything to damage the tree itself by experimenting on a 29 year old tree. Well, thank you again for your responses. It was very kind of you to share your experience.