Houttuynia cordata I am still trying to get rid of this evil plant after 6 years!!! Here is a link that might be useful: BEWARE OF THIS PLANT

Cleveland select pear - Noooo o o o o . . . For many reasons it really isn't a great tree. It's invasive in native woodlands in much of the country (something you said wanted to avoid), the blossoms smell dreadful, and the wood is prone to winter damage. Here are some pears near me after a wet autumn snow. I had a few broken lilac branches, but none of my trees other than some of the scrappier white pines had broken branches, and I saw no other trees that were severely enough damaged to need to be removed as these needed to be. If you search these trees on the tree forum you will only get a very few positives vs. many many negative comments. The dogwoods I mentioned in the post yesterday would be much better choices. My Kousa dogwoods have color that rivals the pear and mine has been healthy until last winter's -22 (at least) killed the buds, though it is still working on leafing out now. That shouldn't be an issue for you. If you do go for the crabapple, do a web search to be sure it is a disease resistant variety. As far as the holly - I much prefer holly over yew. I can't grow it here without winter damage, but at least some varieties are hardy in your area. Be sure you get an appropriate boy holly to pollenate your females to get berries. China Boy is supposed to be appropriate for China Doll, but I couldn't find specific hardiness info on China Doll. I think the combination of holly and Hydrangea will be handsome, with the Hydrangea providing summer bloom and the holly providing winter green along with berries for the first part of the winter (before the birds eat them.) I don't know what you mean by barn stone, so I can't answer that part. Where ever you plant the hedges, be sure they are set back far enough so you can see oncoming traffic as you pull out of your driveway.

What's at the base of the rock wall? Sidewalk? Tearing out the root structures that are anchoring the hillside might compromise the strength of that wall. Is that wall contiguous with the two properties to either side of your house? If so, how do they have their sloped properties landscaped? Working on a steep slope is a job for the experienced landscape renovation crew. For now, get an identification of the upper shrub hedge and leave it in place until you put together several quotes from recommended landscape professionals and work up a budget. Yes, early fall is the better time for plant installations. If you're brave, take a long handled strong metal tined rake and see what's hiding under the pile of burlap. Might be as simple as an old tree stump. But, a pile of anything on the ground is a haven for critters and the snakes they attract.

Just over 60 days now. These pics are from a couple days ago. Mowing about every 4 days. I'm applying urea at .5 lb N / 1000 sq ft weekly. I also put alfalfa on it last night. I had it in my head that 10 lbs / 1000 sq ft was the prescribed dosage, but then read an alfalfa post by dchall saying that 20, 30, even 40 lbs per 1000 sq ft is good. So I'll grab a couple more bags this week and throw them down. I'm pretty happy with it at this point. There will be work to be done in the spring, but it's 100% better than what I had when I started.