jkom has given you great advice. The Meyer looks great, well planted, no grass to compete, etc. I would recommend placing them on a drip system, since citrus do need a fair amount of water, especially in the hotter areas of the country. They also need well draining soil, which you probably have based on where you are. If planted in clay soils, they should be elevated, and the water well provided at the drip line lower than the tree crown. You may need to expand the wells as your trees grow, as you really want the water to pool in a circle around your tree at the drip line (edge of the canopy), as that's where your tree's feeder roots reside. Use a good fertilizer formulated for citrus, which will be higher in nitrogen and will contain micronutrients. You'll want to fertilize at regular intervals, and for you that should be February, May, and early October, but you can check with your local Master Gardeners for any additional timing for your specific area. It also would be beneficial for you to mulch your wells with compost or composted manure. That will do two things for your citrus: provide some water retention in your very arid climate, and also provide additional slow release nitrogen, both very helpful for growing citrus in arid climates on sandy or DG soils. I mulch my citrus at least once or twice a year with a small amount of chicken manure (very hot, so use sparingly), and then top with compost and wood chips as I'm on nearly pure DG, so very little organic material in my soil. For us here in S. California for the most part, iron deficiency is actually rarely an issue, as our soils have plenty of iron (but possibly jkom is in an area that is deficient - California is a gigantic state with some fairly wide differences in soil makeup). It is usually a manganese deficiency we see here, and that tends to be the same for AZ. I would check with your local Master Gardeners, again, though, to find out what your soil issues are, and fertilize accordingly. You can also use a micronutrient foliar spray too, which works very well if you notice your leaves getting pale or yellowish. Grow More Citrus Grower's Blend is a good micronutrient product. And do support your branches on your young trees, especially the Meyer, as Meyer's tend to be very prolific producers (my Meyer has no less than 50 to 100 fruit on it at any given time, I have Meyer lemons coming out my ears). Lastly, you are very fortunate to have quite a bit of online support for citrus in your state. I've included a link below, which also has additional links for you. Definitely check out Arizona Cooperative Extension's web site, it is a great resource for those growing citrus in AZ: http://extension.arizona.edu/maricopa/citrus-publications Your Master Gardeners are part of the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, and are a great, great resource for home gardeners. Here's a link to your AZ Master Gardener manual: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck, looks like you're off to a good start! Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: AZ Citrus

You should check out gardenwatchdog.com. If you ordered with a cc, I would call the cc company and make sure it is cancelled. You should be able to find a nice meyer from a nursery that is reputable. I hope you don't get ripped off like most people have! Andrew

schulerbeth, That's a beautiful tree! The yellowing leaves dropping is due to lighting being changed. The tree came from the nursery were it was likely getting ideal lighting. So the tree might be cutting back a bit to adjust to its new home. Once the tree has adjusted to the spot, it'll stop dropping leaves. The symptoms of over watering are very similar to under watering. Slight leaf curl, and may also droop. I do not see the with your tree. You shouldn't be too concerned with the browning on the back of the leaves yet. Like Greenman28 said, looks like old damage. It'll never go away until the leaf is replaced. So if it doesn't worsen I wouldn't take any action. You'll find that Meyer lemons would rather make lemons then make new leaves. So don't worry about trying to make it bloom. Because you say you are new at this. And I see the tree is at a sliding glass door. Come spring time. You may be tempted to put the tree out in the morning on a nice day. You will want to be careful not to burn the leaves. Citrus trees need to acclimate (about 3 weeks) going into full sun from only a few hours of sun.

Liminqueens, thanks for the science, learned something today! :) Mike, I'll give it another week or so, since we just had a freezing advisory a couple of days ago and days are not quite in the 70's yet, more in the 50/60s right now. You're saying its ok to bring them in and out like that? I saw a post not too long ago from someone that had a tree that did great on his patio, and then lost all its leaves and deperished the second he brought it back inside for the winter. Something about light difference shock and temperature issues. How do I avoid my tree going bald when I bring it back in? I'm going to be very candid with you: that is the very reason I have been going back and forth in my mind and hesitating in bringing the trees outside for the summer, because of all the posts here and elsewhere that show bugs infestations on their Meyer lemon trees, and trees in shock when brought back in. Is the risk vs reward worth it taking them out for a couple months? If you tell me it is, I will believe you but it's a question worth asking, ya know? I have been holding my breath around my trees since I got them, and considering they seemed to be doing ok, I was frankly afraid to do anything that might hurt them or expose them to parasites. So if I'm going to take them out on the patio, I want to make sure I don't screw it up. The Patio has mostly shady areas (for most of the day, anyway), and full sun areas (same, for most of the day), but no filtered sun areas, since its a patio and not a garden and I don't have other trees out there. Does that pose a transition problem for my trees? And if it's going to be really cold 2 weeks after I bring them out, what do I do, take them back in for the night? Now about soil, keeping in mind that my trees are going to stay potted and go back in for the winter. I've read a lot about 511, and it's also available already mixed, so that's definitely a plus. I've read about gritty soil as well, but quite frankly, I don't have the experience to decide which one is best, so right now it's pretty much flip a coin to pick one for me. Should I put something else at the bottom of the pot, like gravel, to make sure it drains properly? I've also read people using coconut fiber pads to help the water drain well. A lot of questions, I know. And I'm sure I'll have more of them before I'm done, too. So thank you again for taking the time to help. Atheen PS: Been trying to get back into my first post to correct the pic orientation, but can't seem to find a way to go back in the original post to edit it. I can edit the comments, but not the first post. Am I missing something?