jkom has given you great advice. The Meyer looks great, well planted, no grass to compete, etc. I would recommend placing them on a drip system, since citrus do need a fair amount of water, especially in the hotter areas of the country. They also need well draining soil, which you probably have based on where you are. If planted in clay soils, they should be elevated, and the water well provided at the drip line lower than the tree crown. You may need to expand the wells as your trees grow, as you really want the water to pool in a circle around your tree at the drip line (edge of the canopy), as that's where your tree's feeder roots reside. Use a good fertilizer formulated for citrus, which will be higher in nitrogen and will contain micronutrients. You'll want to fertilize at regular intervals, and for you that should be February, May, and early October, but you can check with your local Master Gardeners for any additional timing for your specific area. It also would be beneficial for you to mulch your wells with compost or composted manure. That will do two things for your citrus: provide some water retention in your very arid climate, and also provide additional slow release nitrogen, both very helpful for growing citrus in arid climates on sandy or DG soils. I mulch my citrus at least once or twice a year with a small amount of chicken manure (very hot, so use sparingly), and then top with compost and wood chips as I'm on nearly pure DG, so very little organic material in my soil. For us here in S. California for the most part, iron deficiency is actually rarely an issue, as our soils have plenty of iron (but possibly jkom is in an area that is deficient - California is a gigantic state with some fairly wide differences in soil makeup). It is usually a manganese deficiency we see here, and that tends to be the same for AZ. I would check with your local Master Gardeners, again, though, to find out what your soil issues are, and fertilize accordingly. You can also use a micronutrient foliar spray too, which works very well if you notice your leaves getting pale or yellowish. Grow More Citrus Grower's Blend is a good micronutrient product. And do support your branches on your young trees, especially the Meyer, as Meyer's tend to be very prolific producers (my Meyer has no less than 50 to 100 fruit on it at any given time, I have Meyer lemons coming out my ears). Lastly, you are very fortunate to have quite a bit of online support for citrus in your state. I've included a link below, which also has additional links for you. Definitely check out Arizona Cooperative Extension's web site, it is a great resource for those growing citrus in AZ: http://extension.arizona.edu/maricopa/citrus-publications Your Master Gardeners are part of the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, and are a great, great resource for home gardeners. Here's a link to your AZ Master Gardener manual: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck, looks like you're off to a good start! Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: AZ Citrus

schulerbeth, That's a beautiful tree! The yellowing leaves dropping is due to lighting being changed. The tree came from the nursery were it was likely getting ideal lighting. So the tree might be cutting back a bit to adjust to its new home. Once the tree has adjusted to the spot, it'll stop dropping leaves. The symptoms of over watering are very similar to under watering. Slight leaf curl, and may also droop. I do not see the with your tree. You shouldn't be too concerned with the browning on the back of the leaves yet. Like Greenman28 said, looks like old damage. It'll never go away until the leaf is replaced. So if it doesn't worsen I wouldn't take any action. You'll find that Meyer lemons would rather make lemons then make new leaves. So don't worry about trying to make it bloom. Because you say you are new at this. And I see the tree is at a sliding glass door. Come spring time. You may be tempted to put the tree out in the morning on a nice day. You will want to be careful not to burn the leaves. Citrus trees need to acclimate (about 3 weeks) going into full sun from only a few hours of sun.

tlbean2004: there is pearlite in it. Not like I know what that means... uhh, I do believe the leaves get a little firmer and heavier after I water the plant, but that can just be my imagination. OK, so I will not over water. I would like to now know, is once a week too much? If I stick my finger in and I feel any moisture should I still water? I feel like this is so complicated. Yes, it is in full sun. Lots of good sun, on a sunny day of course. Should I re pot it in a smaller pot? How will that benefit me? If you need more pictures or anything let me know

Congratulations on the tree! It does look quite nice! Those feeder roots will die if exposed to the sun's heat and dry air. While some feeder roots dying will not kill your tree, in your situation, I'd probably bare-root the tree and pull them below the root flare. I suspect it was originally potted too deep by the nursery; I saw that situation on one of the trees I was gifted long ago. You want to see the root flare before you see feeder roots (from a vertical perspective). Will that kill the tree? No, though it will make it more prone to disease. Is it good for it? Not a bit. -Tom