Succulent fell over, trunk is turning soft, any way to save it?
ripleyahlborn
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agomesembs
8 years agoRelated Discussions
succulent leaf cuttings drying up or turning black/purple
Comments (29)ill have to look for some rooting hormone cause unless its an accident of a leaf falling out and landing in the same pot with its mother (which to my surprise when picking up the leave) started to sprout a baby! - but when trying from fresh leaves in there own soil after a few days (i've even tried just putting them into the dirt without waiting) i've had absolutely no luck just a bunch of shriveled leaves :( ... some of my plants I have saved from being mistreated at small stores where they are never watered and all ripped apart and stretching for sun I've specifically bought and brought home so when they are nursed back to health I can try prop-ing with but have had no luck and now some of my plants are looking a little skanky with not many leaves on them, and I'm super worried to start pulling more until they kinda recover... but its not too attractive to have leaveless plants with long stems left sitting on the windowsill lol! but what can I say - I seem to have more luck by accident then by actually trying!...See MoreNine foot Euphorbia fell over! How do I keep it up?
Comments (23)Most importantly is the plant inside against the wall all the time? This Euphorbia Ammak is a large growing tree and needs bright sunlight to maintain itself. Soil looks to be dry but they should be in a gritter mix to increase drainage. Is the brown spots mussy or soft, and/or smells funny. It is possible that it is still okay. Needs better living conditions. Turning brown or black is sometimes part of growing this white ammak. If you must cut, Use a sharp knife and cut across where there is no rot and only good stem. Have a spray bottle of cold water to spray the white latex sap. Sap is toxic and a skin irritant and wash right after cutting it. If you get any in your eyes, wash out with tons of water then go to the hospital for treatment. Let the cut heal and dry for a few days before planting in pure grit or perlite. It takes almost a year for new roots to form. No water can be taken up till it grows new roots. Google 'cutting my euphorbia ammak' for videos and more instructions....See MoreGardenia - after fertilizing leaves turned yellow and fell off
Comments (35)Maybe "cheating", but Grafted (onto G. thunbergia) gardenias by Monrovia (sold in many nurseries or directly thru website}, though $$ are much hardier/less fussy with watering & dying!!! The only plant I have truly killed is a gardenia! (Rose & fragrant flower nut.) I have an August Beauty (nursery person thinks since tag fell off), whose flowers are Huge! (3 1/2" in Fremont, CA in a 21" pot, now 4 years old & entire plant is enormous 4' x4'x3' with a slight weeping habit.). P. S. It did well but has really started to take off in the last 2 years once I was brave enough to cut off a strong shoot that never really had the right leaves & no flowers, finally figured out that was a "sucker" from the rootstock though situated smack in the center. That said, I've just started growing a double flowered Arabian Jasmine Sambac "Summer Soul" also Monrovia (pic). The flowers are huge for a jasmine 1-1 1/2" & the scent is heavenly (TDF), this beats everything else I have ever grown for scent hands down no contest, roses, gardenias, other jasmine etc.!!!!! P. P. S. Tried several other fragrant "gardenia-like" plants. Easier to grow but not impressed with strength/quality of scent on any. Including: African Gardenia (Mitriostigma axillare) & Orange Jasmine (Murraya paniculata) from Logee. Vietnamese Gardenia (Gardenia (Kailarsenia) vietnamensis) from Top Tropicals, & Double-Flowering Crape Jasmine (tabernaemontana divaricata 'flore pleno') from Kartuz greenhouses, also super slow 1st year. All outdoor pots in Fremont, CA, acid-loving potting soil, & no fertilizer till 2nd year just to be safe....See Moresaving blue salvia over night in MN?
Comments (12)Oh-oh, Mary Ann--now that I see the photo, I realize that I have steered you in the wrong direction. When you mentioned the Black and Blue salvia, I mistakenly assumed you were referring to Salvia patens, what is often referred to as 'Blue Angel' and similar varieties (see link below). These and the Black and Blue (S. guarantica) do have fleshy roots that can be saved in the house over winter. If yours really looks like the one in your photo, I can understand why you didn't find any fleshy roots. It is more likely to be Salvia nemorosa or something similar to that (a "meadow sage") and those are hardy here, at least in the ground. (See http://www.bluestoneperennials.com/SAEF.html) I have only overwintered those in the ground. My understanding is that a pot exposes plants to harsher conditions more like increasing the zone rating a couple of numbers, so your effort of digging them may not have been wasted. With fibrous roots, like your plants have, I don't think the strategy of keeping them in a bag will work well as it does for the fleshy roots I was talking about. You don't by any chance have a place in the ground that you could dig up quickly and water those plants in well (and repeatedly until the ground freezes hard for the winter) instead, do you? If you do, I would try that strategy instead. I am very sorry I misunderstood what type of salvia you were talking about! It does sound like you had quite a fight with those roots, but they may have a better chance of overwintering out of the containers. There's a FAQ on this page about overwintering perennials in pots that seems to offer good advice. http://www.bluestoneperennials.com/faq.html#winter Good luck! I hope it works for you. Here is a link that might be useful: Salvia patens 'Blue Angel'...See Moreripleyahlborn
8 years agoripleyahlborn
8 years agoripleyahlborn
8 years ago
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rina_Ontario,Canada 5a