Talk to me about WINDOW RETURNS; drywall, sills only...
arialvetica
8 years ago
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omelet
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Talk to me about H. linearis...
Comments (11)Thanks for the info guys I find others growing experiences a great help in how I will attempt to grow things. Tammypie I don't know if this is of any help but when I had serpens the first time it bloomed beautifully. I had it hanging in a north west window, it only got late afternoon sun but the house next door is white stucco so it also got a lot of reflected light. There is a heat duct under this window but serpens was hanging off to one side. I'm hoping to get another cutting of it from D.L. this spring. Finding different Hoyas in my area is next to nil. Home depot up here carries a few, I keep looking through them but we don't seem to get the same selection of different varieties that you guys get south of the border. Which reminds me, I should check out Walmart the next time I'm out that end of the city. A.........See MoreTalk to me about cooktops/ranges on islands
Comments (8)Based on your description of your current kitchen, I think almost anything will be an improvement, so don't be unhappy about a budget remodel...sometimes the best things come out of trying to find a way to do things with limited resources! Your layout...first, a range in island or peninsula is a last resort...only do it if there are absolutely no other options. And, if you do put one in, be sure you have plenty of safety margin around the range. NKBA Guidelines say 9", but that's really not sufficient if you have a lot of traffic around it...and w/the garage entrance right there it will be a heavy traffic area. If you want seating, well the NKBA is silent on that one! My personal recommendation is 18" behind if there's no seating but there is traffic and 24" behind it if there is seating (even more would be better). As to on the sides, 24"on each side for minimum work/landing space for real-life cooking. Additionally, even if you could put in an overhead range hood, they're more expensive than wall mounted ones. Downdrafts & Pop-up Downdrafts do not work very well and will also incur the added expense of duct work under the floor. Your kitchen is by no means a "last resort" kitchen...far from it! I have no idea why the Lowes KD would even suggest the range in the island given your situation: Heavy traffic, plenty of wall room, trying to save $$$ OK, some additional facts...the amount of time you spend in the kitchen on a cooking task breaks down as follows: 70% spent prepping 20% spent cleaning up 10% spent cooking So, where is this all leading? The logical place for your range is on the wall and the logical place for prepping is on the island or next to the sink...probably b/w the sink & range. This means that if the sink stays under the window, you don't have enough room for the range + landing & work space b/w the sink & patio door nor b/w the sink & corner. That leaves the wall on the right...and it will be ideal. Very little traffic will be going through there so the cooking zone is protected (a goal for any kitchen). Additionally, you can vent up through the roof...an advantage, I think, b/c that means you won't have a vent sticking out the back wall of your house...it will be on the roof where most people won't notice it. The refrigerator...well probably b/w the patio doors & sink. The only real negative I see with that is the DW will be b/w the refrigerator & range. In this case, it may be an acceptable compromise for better overall functionality. OK, here's something to work with & discuss... It has an optional prep sink in the 8' island. I couldn't decide if it would work better on the refrigerator end or the range end...I could argue either way. You don't have to put in a prep sink but I think it will make the island more useful for prepping. Most people tend to prep where there's a water source...so in your case if there's no prep sink this means prepping will probably take place either b/w the refrigerator & sink or b/w the sink & range. Don't dismiss it out of hand...check to see what it would cost to add the plumbing to the island. Do you have a basement or crawl space or are you on a slab? That will make a difference in cost. Aisle widths are not ideal, but I think they would work. My biggest aisle concern is the one behind the island. That will probably be a major path from the garage to the rest of the house. To help minimize the impact of the refrigerator when viewed from the LR, I recommend you "build it in". Surround it by 3/4" finished end panels (plain/flat) and b/w the end panels and above the refrigerator, mount either a full-depth cabinet or pull the standard 12" deep over-the-refrigerator cabinet forward so it looks like it's full depth. This will give the refrigerator a more "finished" look. For the MW, either put one under counter or perhaps mount it below the cabinets to the left of the sink...but that would limit the upper cabinet space there...an ideal location for dishes and/or glasses b/c the DW is below it. The under counter one could be a "standard" MW in an alcove built for it or it could be a MW Drawer (but, MW Drawers are about twice the cost of a standard one.) Another possible location is in the corner...either on the counter or mounted below the corner upper cabinet. I put in a trash pullout that is easily accessed from the prep zones (island & b/w sink & range), cooking zone, and cleanup zone. Pullouts work much better than under-the-sink trash cans b/c you don't have to ask someone to move out of the way if they're at the sink. The under-sink location has a tendency to "isolate" the trash can from the other zones as well...it's really only easily accessed by the cleanup zone. An 18" trash pullout can house 2 bins...one for trash & one for recyclables....See MoreTalk to me about bedroom curtains
Comments (8)Ms.Meow- We are using blinds in each window, this is in addition. They are... 3x6ft? I'm not on the property atm, we are moving soon. So, no furniture will be under/in front of them. I'm using one because one is enough to effectively block out all the light for when the children sleep. I had thought about two, but in a room that's 10x10, to have 4 panels...it seems like overkill. Mydogs THANK YOU! I could NOT find pictures for some reason! The window essentially looks like this, except we have drywall returns rather than moulding. So, should I mount the rod unevenly, or "proud" of both sides of the window- or does that look funny? EXAMPLE FROM INTERNET...See MoreJoining pvc window sill/ box to drywall (as in a window return)
Comments (6)Agree with @hallettco can't tell anything from these pictures. One shows exterior siding with what looks like composite board butts to it? The other one it looks like composite board overlapping sheetrock if that's the case they should have used drywall end-caps, to get a nice, straight transition they come in plain or beaded corner something like this Or you can get a low profile edge cap at this point and paint it something like this or Drywall end caps is the way to go, the molding options just to cover up what you have now. Talk to your contractor ask them to slip the drywall end caps in they should be able to do that will give a better finish. Good luck...See MoreUser
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