Form over function can work in a little used powder room, but for an often used bath, especially if this is a master bath, function should take precedence. A couple of years ago a woman came into my cabinet shop with several salad bowls. That's how she shopped vanity height versus vessel height. I'm not sure if your 35" vanity includes the granite thickness, I'm thinking it doesn't. So don't forget that when you shop. I generally advise people shopping for a vessel to work backwards; 1) Find your preferred comfort height, a range of a couple of inches. 2) Then expand that if you can for a height range you're willing to accept if you have to compromise and keep that range filed away just in case. 3) Shop for a vessel sink. 4) Shop for a vanity. And to make it all come together, if needed, a vessel can be recessed into the countertop. Handmade or non-standard/non-round vessels can be more work, but they are still do-able. Mongo

FYI everyone - the top of the sink is just short of 34 1/4". My contractor said the countertop will be another couple of inches. So it all sounds standard. Too bad I'm not!! davidro1 - thanks for putting my mind at ease re. how difficult the work is! Cheri127 - not sure I want to pay $300-$400.00 more. Hmmm... Nutheroikie - thank you! :) I love the faucet, still (was so worried I wouldn't love it when I got it in person but it's grand). bayareafrancy - I'm 5'6 too and my bellybutton is 5" above the lip of the sink. Haha. Darn! ;) Thanks for the shims idea. Yes it will be painted. Kind of a pity though cause due to a door that can be swung open to hit the cabinet doors/faces, I feel forced to go with a higher-quality/harder wood for the faces and doors (inset). That means more money...but it seems a pity since the they'll be painted! But I don't think unpainted wood would look good with painted uppers. I don't want an upmounted sink either (no way - I want to be able to clean more efficiently for the first time in my life!). As for the faucet parts, they are interchangeable (within the same company of course) and the company that makes it is Jaclo: http://www.jaclo.com/products/sub_category?cid=123 They do have a gooseneck that isn't quite so high, but it doesn't come with the built-in sprayer as this one does - and I really like having a sprayer but no holes in the countertop. :) willis13 - interesting. I got my 8 year-old to measure the height from the floor to my elbow and while I'm not sure how well he measured, it ended up being 42" so after subtracting 6" it's at standard height! But the problem isn't the counter - the problem is how low the sink is. But the grid might help a little. I think I'd be very happy if everything were up an inch or two. I'm not a tall person (though my husband is something like 6'1 1/2) but again, both my husband and I have tall torsos. I'd look really normal if I walked on my hands I think. ;) I'm really stuck! I don't know what to do. Now's the time, and yet it will cost more and will postpone things more and maybe I'm being too picky. Or not. Shoot.

Both rough-in plumbing and rough-in electrical are everything that needs to happen before the insulation and drywall goes up. "Rough" is just a specific stage during construction -- rough plumbing happens after framing and before drywall. What your rough plumbing will look like depends on the job. You mentioned a utility sink and prep sink. In really simple terms, when sink plumbing rough in is done, you'll see what looks like three different pipes running through the floor/ceiling/wall and ending sticking out of the floor/wall roughly where the sinks will go with caps on the end of the pipes. Usually for each sink, there'll be one big pipe (the vent/drain), and two little ones (hot water and cold water). After the wall board goes in, you will no longer be able to see the pipes snaking through the walls/floors/ceiling. You'll see only the three capped pipe ends that stick out, like so: On the far right in that picture, you'll see the rough-in plumbing for the bathroom sink. The big white pipe is the drain/vent. The little red pipe is the hot water line. The little blue pipe is the cold water line. The pipes aren't always those colors (for example, if you have metal pipes rather than PVC, the hot/cold lines would be copper), but the one-big-and-two-small-pipes configuration is pretty standard for sinks. I have no idea what kind of plumbing your heaters might need. That didn't come up in our remodel.

Well it appear's you already did it so I see no problem with it. I would have simply bored a hole through shelf and used and extra long tail piece (extension).