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Help with kitchen layout

8 years ago

Hi,

We are designing a home and are struggling a bit with an efficient kitchen design and would like some feedback. I have attached the layout that the designer has picked but I don't think it's the best. I'd rather something like in the second image. Any thoughts on how best to utilize the space? The room is 14 x 19 and has 10' ceilings and has a view out of the North East windows in the floorpan image below.

Style: Modern

Appliances: Miele 24" Coffee machine, Miele 24" Speed Oven, Miele 30" Oven, Miele 36" Integrated fridge, Miele 24" Integrated freezer

Modern Home in Oakville Ontario · More Info

Thanks for everyone's input!!

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Comments (4)

mama goose_gw zn6OH
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Here's a quick rearrangement which gives you two prep spaces, and orients the island as it is in your inspiration pic. I moved the fridge away from the stub wall so that the door will open past 90°. Where is the 24" freezer in your plan?

Can the windows be reconfigured?
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kdunic
Original Author
8 years ago
The freezer didn't make it in the plans at that point but we've decided to get one since.

I like the idea of the two prep areas but shouldn't the fridge be on the same side as the cooker to maintain a cooking triangle? What are your thoughts on the attached layouts?
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I like where you're going with this. A couple ideas: you will probably need to move the door anyway to fit the cabinets, fridge, etc. One benefit will be you can open the door on a right-hinged fridge into the doorway. Check out the Liebherr fridges. We have had three in different properties, including two 24-inch ones. Love them. Some people here are fixated on drawers, but they do waste a certain amount of space, particularly in a shallow cabinet. To me, a shallow cabinet, as you are proposing under the windows, works well with shelves, because there is not a lot of stuff behind other stuff. On the window wall, you might consider a wine rack, if you would use that: depth is perfect. On the other wall, I would go with one bank of wider drawers - they will hold more. I would do, from left, a 24" dishwasher, 30" single sink, drawers, 30" range, tray cabinet, 24" fridge. You can get by with a 30" hood. Above, a 24" cabinet, nothing above sink, upper cabinet, hood (with 3" gap on each side), maybe a narrow spice cabinet, then a 24" cabinet over the fridge. You can do a garbage pullout under the sink, or a tip out on the window walk.
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Can you take some space from the living room? If the stub wall must be 30", you could put a full-height cabinet on the LR side, and extend a peninsula to the point where the door was. If you need a support post for a beam, it could be incorporated into the seating overhang (plan on left). However, if the stub wall can be eliminated, or if only a support post is necessary on the exterior wall, you could extend the peninsula farther into the LR, and make the remainder of the room a dining area. With seating at the peninsula, the nook could be converted to storage and serving. areas (plan on right). Another option (on right), would be to keep the sink under the window and put the fridge on the stair wall. The fridge would be a trek from the range, but adding a sink to the peninsula would give you a better prep space, and the fridge would be more convenient to the FR and new DR. NKBA guidelines New to Kitchens? Read me first.
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While you are removing the soffit, remove the popcorn ceiling and replace with smooth. And remove the bulky dated fan/light, and install ceiling cans. The ceiling cans should be installed along the perimeter of the cabinets, which would be about 24" from the wall, or about 12-18" from the upper cabinets. To see how many cans you need, you have to know the size of the kitchen, the height of the ceiling, and the size of your cans (4" or 5"). A rough rule of thumb is to divide the height of your ceiling by two. This is how far apart your can lights should be. For example, an eight-foot ceiling would require lights every four feet. Does your current hood exhaust to the outside? If not, I would install an exhaust duct to the outside, while your walls are open and you are doing the other work.
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mama goose_gw zn6OH
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
I'm sorry, but other than guessing at the sinks, I can't tell where anything is located in the new plans, and it doesn't enlarge when I click on it.

The fridge doesn't necessarily need to be on the same wall as the cooker*, but it would be better if it was closer than in the first plan I posted. I put the sink and DW between them because of the window. If the fridge is moved away from the stub wall far enough to make sure the door opens fully, there doesn't appear to be enough room for it, the ovens, and the cooker on the same wall. Can the stub wall be shortened? (Red circle.)

If the wall cannot be made shorter, the fridge could be moved out, and the cabinets pulled forward, to make deeper counters. (Sorry the pic is blurry.)

*Kitchen planning info: New to Kitchens? Read me first.
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mama goose_gw zn6OH
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Is there ap 13.5' on the fridge wall? (14' on the outside.) A 36" fridge, 30" cooktop, 30" ovens, and 2' base cabinets, leaves 3.5' total, for counter space on each side of the cooktop. If you take that down to 3' (18" on each side), there's room for a 6" pull-out between the fridge and stub wall, but I'm not sure if that is enough. It would be crowding the cooking zone, with a lot of wasted space on the other side of the sink and DW.
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