Is cement backer board a must for tiled walls?
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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Backer Board-Concrete Board for tile in shower
Comments (4)dorry, As you know, water can get past the tile and grout. Once it does, it'll hit the tile backer board. Cement board is an excellent tile backer board because it is not negatively affected by water. Wet it, dry it, repeat the cycle...and in 50 years the cement board will still look like cement board. Unlike a gypsum board, which will slowly turn to mush with repeated wetting and drying cycles. Now cement board is not waterproof. Wet it and water can pass through it. That's why you need some sort of drainage barrier in the wall. It's often done by stapling 6-mil polyethylene plastic to the studs, then lapping the bottom edge of the poly over the tub flange. Any water that gets past the tile/grout and through the cement board will hit the poly. The poly prevents the water from getting into the framing bays. Most of the time all will be well. The tile and grout shed 99.99% of the water down the drain. Any minor imperfections in the wall, the cement board might get a little bit wet. But think of the cement board as a sponge, it can hold a bit of moisture in it's pores. When the shower is not in use, any moisture that got into the wall usually evaporates back out of the wall. No big deal, no damage. Now if you had a damaged wall...bad grout, a cracked tile, etc...then you could get more water into the wall. If thee is more water getting in than can get out via evaporation, then the poly will stop the moisture from getting to the house's framing. It'll hit the poly and flow downward, over the tub flange, and back into the tub if weepholes were left in place. Poly is one type of membrane. Anther is a topical membrane that can be used on the face of the cement board. RedGard, Hydroban, etc. They get "painted" on the cement board, then you tile on the membrane. But as Bill wrote, any partial repairs leave you in an conundrum of sorts. Not sure if this is worth anything, but you mentioned greenboard. Greenboard as a tile backer in a shower has been a known poor building practice for decades. It has been an outright code violation since January of 2006. That's no help to you now, I know that. The big concern to address with your worker is the top horizontal seam of the repair. You'll have a seam in the tile backer, topped by a "seam" or grout line in the tile layout. A seam over a seam is an excellent point for flexure failure (cracks in the grout) and eventual water intrusion into the wall. Any issues will be compounded by there being nothing behind the tile backer to contain any water that gets back there. At a minimum, I'd remove the cement board and try to slide poly up behind the bottom edge of the existing tile backer, between the bottom of the existing tile backer and the wall studs. Even an inch will help. Enough to get some protection behind the eventual double seam. Then drape the poly down over the tub flange. Reset the cement board over the poly....See MoreLaminate sheet on backer cement board
Comments (5)The cement alphonse suggested is the way to go. No matter what you glue the laminate to, there is a technique to be followed or you'll have a mess on your hands. I suggest that a newbie to the process plan on the actual size of the back splash to be smaller than the gluing project so you can trim it up compensating for "hangover" laminate or crooked bonding. This happens to even the most experienced at times. You and hubby practice many dry runs before doing it....See MoreLaminate sheet on backer cement board
Comments (5)Personally, I wouldn't do it, but probably because we had it on our kitchen walls and couldn't wait to get it out. - it had these nasty edges of metal/nails that that were finishing the edges between it and the countertop (as well as between any "joints" like corners), and while the white probably looked nice in the beginning, had yellowed in places over time. Maybe it would be different in a laundry room, but to us it looked really not so nice. Does the area need to be waterproof? Or just look nice? And it does depend on your style. the laminate may look really good with a very modern style - the kitchen we ripped it out of had very dark cherry cabinets against the white laminate, with white laminate very poor condition countertops. If the cabinets are more traditional, I think that bead board dresses up an area much more than laminate, and is fairly inexpensive at any of the big box stores like Lowes/Home Depot. Graham & Brown manufactures "wall doctor paintables" of bead board wallpaper - fairly inexpensive at $25 a double roll - you could paint it in any color you wanted, and use it elsewhere in the room. It evens out any imperfections in the wall as well. I'm probably not the right person to ask, and I hope that someone answers you in the affirmative - we just had such difficulties ripping the sheet laminate off the wall - it was on firmly with some dark brown adhesive,(which had squeezed between the sheets which were not visible until we pulled out the stove) and tended to shatter into sharp edges when prying it off. It was scary, even wearing goggles, a long shirt and gloves. I don't like it. Sorry. This opinion is highly biased. Here is a link that might be useful: Bead Board Wallpaper - paintable...See MoreJM GoBoard as floor tile backer?
Comments (15)Go board has also been improved since this thread appeared over two years ago. Due to many technological advances older threads may not receive the same response today. We seem to see a new life changing grout every 6 months:) Homeowners should take note of this and consider starting a new thread when looking for information. I agree with Per Mat and Noble Seal as solid choices. There are TCNA approved methods for bonding to an appropriate plywood substrate as well as a wide variety of setting mortars. Many foamboards have a compressive strength in the area of 70PSI. They are tested and backed by the manufacturers. I've seen them go through the Robinson floor test firsthand to get a classification. Deflection is based on joist size, species, span and spacing. You could have 2"x8" / 16o.c. spanning 18l/f. Add 3 layers of plywood, uncoupler and a membrane and it will still bounce like a trampoline. I'm not recommending the above methods or products over others. Just stating they can be done successfully. Welcome to Houzz Madison Tile Carpet One...See More- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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