JM GoBoard as floor tile backer?
Nick Abernathy
4 years ago
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Comments (15)
Nick Abernathy
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Tile GoBoard Seams & Nail
Comments (10)Im almost certain this is a world wide web epidemic.. More and more as I enter into peoples homes to "Look" at a project all the while asking incognito questions as I fish for character I hear people speaking about how to do this how will I do that and its almost always wrong, their understanding of stuff they likely learned right here on the web. People on the forums see disasters all day and then take that Worry into their own project and panic prematurely. It comes down to making educated hiring decisions and FULLY trusting the chosen hire. It also is majorly impacted by looking for deals when hiring and then attempting to micromanage on the back end via forums like this because they got A DEAL. Ill happilyI go broke as I turn down a LOT of work weekly. I can spot these types a state away. Less web more in home trust and smart hiring. One of my fisrt questions on the initial phone call is how active are you on the web, where do you like to go on the web, what sites do you trust for advice etc, Nobody can touch and feel your picture OP. people can pontificate but thats about it. I have never seen a white wood filler spread like that ever. I have seen drywall mud and thinset do that, as well as A good spread of kerdifix....See MoreNeed help with wide, uneven gaps in corners between tile and wall.
Comments (15)This is above the tub/shower. Again, he didn't do the waterproofing and I am confident the corner is well sealed behind the tile (goboard, goboard sealant, fibertape embedded in hydroban) but I still thought he would have run the tiles closer, as I can see the goboard behind it the tile. I assume the latasil caulk here is all that is needed. I just don't know if this is the way most do the corners in walls. all of the corners have gaps. Maybe this is the expansion joint that EJ 171 is referring to and supposed to be a gap?...See MoreLeveling Large Room with Cracked Concrete Floor
Comments (11)Flattening concrete (repair and floating new concrete over top) is EXPENSIVE. It is super expensive. In fact it will cost more than the flooring - guaranteed. A slab like yours sounds like: A. It does NOT have a vapour barrier underneath it. If it is 50 years old, it won't have the plastic underneath it = BIG problem with new concrete sticking to old. Getting anything to stick to this is going to be a BIG job...just to stop the water from moving up from the ground to the adhesive. B. It needs big repairs...if cracks are showing gaps then you need to repair/fill and then add more concrete. That just added a few more days and a few more dollars to this. Not to mention the technical knowledge you will HAVE to pick up...as in you will have to learn the ENTIRE concrete slab business just to do DIY. C. Your slope is going to be TOO MUCH for anything other sheet products (carpet or vinyl). So long as the concrete is smooth and the cracks are filled you can use SHEET vinyl...Yep. Sheet vinyl. It is fast, and it is tough. And it is water resistant (to people dripping wet....not a flood...nothing survives a flood). The BIGGEST issue I see is the vapour barrier is missing. This changes EVERYTHING. A glue down tile = lifting in a year. New concrete must be bound to the old. That requires SOOOO MUCH more work than you know. If you had a pro do it, it would cost you $5/sf just to get the slab ready for new concrete. The concrete = $2/sf....but it you do not PREPARE it with water barrier products (grinding and cleaning and filling and water barrier and primer) you are just asking for a whole bunch of crumbling stuff. I know you want to DIY....but save yourself the effort. Use the sheet product and be done with it. The cost you would spend on the flattening (even the way you are thinking of) will go towards the install costs. At the end of the day it could be in within a few days (cracks still must be filled)....See MoreTile absorbing water at grout lines
Comments (13)So my bathrooms are getting demolished to replace the porous tiles on the wall 😞 nothing helped, 511 sealer did not work. So unfortunately it’s a complete demo. The question is the floor tiles ( these are fine they don’t absorb water) but should these be removed as well and replaced. I am concerned about if it’s not waterproofed properly around the floor? The drain is a “ channel” drain ( not in the middle). Contractor is telling me no need to remove floor tiles and he can install the wall tiles with no issues. Can you let me know your thoughts?...See MoreCreative Tile Eastern CT
4 years agoMint tile Minneapolis
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoNick Abernathy
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3 years agoNick Abernathy
3 years agoLea Kawabe
3 years agoMadison Tile Carpet One
2 years agoJeff Meeks
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoCreative Tile Eastern CT
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2 years agoMichelle Solie
2 years agoMichelle Solie
2 years agoMint tile Minneapolis
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